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Hello. I had a container garden last year that did very well. I am wondering if I have to replace all of the soil that is still in the containers or is there something I can mix in to reuse it? Thank You. Pam
No need to replace the soil unless you had disease problems. You can renew the nutritional value of the soil by blending in some Espoma Garden-tone or Flower-tone. I do this in all my large pots and planters every year….works great!
We recently dug up some daffodil and tulip bulbs to redo our garden — can we plant them now or do we need to dry them and plant in the fall?
By now the bulbs have stored as much energy for next year’s flowering so it is up to you whether you want to replant now or in the fall. You can replant now if the space is available or later if it is not. I like to see bulbs like daffodils, tulips and such planted as early in the fall as possible so they have a chance to root in and grab some nutrients before winter. By early in the fall I mean late September or early October. The later they go in, the less chance they have to set roots which help keep the bulbs from being forced up but frost.
There are many differnt hydrangeas and several reasons why your hydrangea isn’t blooming…the first that comes to mind is: ‘Not enough sun’ Since I don’t know what type of hydrangea you have nor enough clues to answer your question, I’ll direct you to this website…great information: http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/index.html
do I remove the leafs from my perinnel garden or do I rake if in the spring. Thank you for your help.
I leave the leaves on my perennial bed. They will protect the crowns of the perennials from drying sun and wind over the winter. This is important especially if we have a snowless winter…snow is the best protection leaves second best. Resist the urge to rake the leaves out too early in spring. The layer of leaves will help keep the sun from thawing out the beds during any early warm weather we might get in late February and March. A week of warm weather and sun can thaw the soil and bring our perennials out of dormancy too early. When the cold returns, it can damage or kill perennials that were lured out of dormancy too early. I’d leave the leaves on the beds until mid to late April or so. Peter Bowden
The easy answer is to build a fence to keep the rabbits out of the garden. I’ll assume that you’re not in a situation where a fence is feasible. At Hewitt’s we have ‘Repels-All’ which is a combination of dried blood, putrescent whole egg solids and garlic oil. It can be quite effective and claims to last for ‘up to 2 months’. The reality is that it will last only until the next rain shower washes it into the soil. You’ll need to reapply after every rainstorm to remain protected. Then there’s Liquid Fence which contains fewer ingredients that Repells-All but seems to do the job for many folks. To be most effective, apply these repellents as a stronger barrier around the area to be protected rather than scattering it about everywhere. There’s also Hot Pepper Wax spray which can be sprayed on vegetable plants. Rabbits don’t like the taste at all. You may also find that a repellent works well for a few years and then seems not to work. This means that the animals have become accustomed to the repellent and it is time to switch to a different one for a few years or until the animals become used to that one. This means that you should alternate between Repells-All and Luquid Fence every three or four years.
When lilies are done blooming and go to seed (big pods at top), do we need to keep them 6 feet tall or can we cut them down? Will cutting them prevent the little baby lilies from forming below the soil?
You should cut off the top of the lily stem to remove the seed pods that are forming there after the flowers finish. The plant pumps a lot of energy into those seeds while we’d rather that energy be sent to the bulb below to be stored for the next flowering cycle and to create new baby bulbs below the soil. The remaining leaves should be left to gather sunlight (food) as long as they are green. Once they turn yellow they can be cut off. The longer you can maintain those leaves, the faster your lily bulbs will reproduce.
Peter,I have been planting my tulips bulbs in late Sept, early Oct, and the moles or something are eating them. always in the same spot on the left side of my house, the ones on the right front they leave alone, what can i put in that is healthy and natural to repell, what I think is moles, eating my bulbs
One of the most common problems folks run into is having their bulbs dug up or eaten by mice, chipmunks, squirrels and voles. In the past this has been dealt with by adding black pepper to the planting holes or, in extreme cases, by surrounding the bulbs with wire mesh. Thankfully there’s a product that has come on the market in the last few years that makes those techniques obsolete and unnecessary. I’m talking about MoleMax. MoleMax is an extract of Castor Beans and the presence of it in the soil keeps moles, voles, and any burrowing rodents away. Just to keep the record straight, moles are NOT the culprit when your bulbs are dug up or eaten. Moles only eat insect larvae (like grubs) and earthworms but not plants or bulbs. Usually chipmunks are the real culprit but their cuteness seems to earn them immunity from blame. I’ll take a mole over a chipmunk any day. Here’s the directions from the package for using MoleMax when planting bulbs: For Bulbs: After placing bulb in hole, apply one (1) tablespoon of product into the hole, making sure granules surround the bulb, then backfill with soil. I’ve used MoleMax and it works great. I’ll apply it again in the spring to the area as a follow up. In reality I apply MoleMax to all my flowerbeds in spring to discourage the moles. If I can keep the moles out of the flowerbed then my dog won’t be tempted to try to dig them out. The mole damage is minor but the destruction the dog can do in a few minute of digging is something I’m glad to avoid.
My flower gardens are covered in moss. I did a PH test (thank you for the “how to” on your blog) and surprisingly they all came out in the 7.0 to 8.0 range. They are fairly shady areas, but they do get at least 4 hours of sun and they are not kept overly wet. Any ideas as what I should do to solve this problem?
I’m glad you pH is good but, as you see, moss can still grow in neutral soil. I’d rough up the area and consider mulching the area between the plants. You can tear brown paper leaf bag up and fit the pieces among the plants then cover the paper with a 2″ layer of cedar mulch. This will smother the moss over time.
I have some Stella D’ora daylilies that I planted about five years ago. The plantings have become quite large. I know I need to separate them, as they are not blooming as abundtantly as they had been. What time of year is the best time to separae and replant them? Should I wait until the fall after they have bloomed, or can they be separated now, when they are just starting to form flower buds?
If there is no hurry to do this, I’d wait until September to divide them. While daylilies are robust and can probably handle summer dividing, they’ll be all floppy and beat looking for the rest of the summer. Why not enjoy them for the summer and divide them at the end of the season? Summer dividing is so rough on them (and any plant) that there is nothing to be gained by dividing them now.
The first step is to chose the right basket for the light you have. Once you know that, you can go to the garden center and they can help you pick one based on the conditions you have. Then it is just a matter of watering without drowning, regular feeding and deadheading. Click on highlighted words for more details.
Two things can prevent flowering…not enough light (so thin branches above the myrtle) and a lack of phosphorus. Feed the area wit Espoma Flower-Tone right away to provide phosphorus. You could also cut it back and that could trigger extra flowering.
Yes, you can allow the clematis to grow up a maple tree. This will harm neither the clematis nor the maple. I wonder if the clematis will get enough sun under a maple tree. With less than enough sun, the clematis will grow but not produce as many flowers as it would in a sunnier location. Also maples use a lot of water and have shallow roots so the clematis will need extra watering in that location.
Hi Peter!I bought one of those new variety Peony plants this Spring. Awesome, huge yellow flowers. But, after the flower falls off, am I supposed to deadhead? And, do I cut to the ground in the Fall?Thanks!
Yes snip off (deadhead) the flowers when they finish to stimulate reblooming. Yes, cut then to the grown after hard freezes have killed the foliage. A light covering of evergreen boughs will help keep the soil from thawing out during winter warm spells that may occur. Resist the urge to uncover them until late March.
Hello, on Saturday, we lost half of our garden to a ground hog. We had a rabbit fence up but somehow ‘Phil’ got into it. He didn’t go under it and I don’t think he can fit through it. Well today during the six o’clock hour, we lost the other half of the garden except for the red bell pepper. What would you recommend we do to win our battle against Phil? Also, do you think that some of ours plants will battle on? He ate pumpkin, squash, lettuce, tomato, and celery. The vines are still there but not much else…
I’m always sad to hear of this situation but many of us have hade the same thing happen at one time or another. Let’s start with the fence. A fence can exclude a woodchuck (groundhog). You’d need to start with a 5′ fence and bury the bottom foot of it at a 90 degree angle away from the garden since woodchucks will dig underneath a fence. This may deter a woodchuck but, since they climb, it is also suggested that an electric fence also be installed down low to discourage them from climbing. Another approach is to use rodent smoke bombs. This is tricky since you need to find and block all exit burrows before igniting and placing the leathal smoke bomb intothe main burrow. If just one exit is left open, the woodchuck will escape and may reinhabit the burrow again later. Then there is trapping. NY allows leg and body traps but you’ll need a trapping license to purchase and use those. You can use a live trap like a Hav-a-Heart but then waht to do with the living woodchuck. In NY it is illegal to transport or release wild animals unless you are registered to do so. I’d have to suggest that you hire a licensed pest removal person to trap and remove the woodchuck and improve your fence. Consider getting a dog. Here’s a website that has great information on woodchuck control:…. http://www.extension.org/pages/Woodchuck_Damage_Management Whatever is left of the garden will try and grow and you may get some squash and pumpkins tomatoes and peppers the woodchuck is removed.
I have two Azaleas I purchased from you last fall and planted. Each is about 3 ft high and has a few buds (6-10). They look awful. What should I do? Thanks.
Fall planting is always tough since the plant has no time to get established before winter. The best thing to do at this point is to feed them with Holly-Tone in the soil and get some Mir-Acid plant food. Dissolve the Mir-Acid in water as directed and wash that down over the leaves and stem. Mir-Acid can be absorbed through the leaves and stems for emergency feeding. Do this once a week for the next month or so. The Holly-tone is slower and will feed the azalea for the rest of the season. Use Holly-tone every spring from now on.
I have a hosta that has big leaves and when I bought it 2 years ago, it was blue. Now it has come up green. It is currently in a heavy shade area. If I moved it to an area with more sun, would it revert to blue? Or, is it something in the soil that will make it blue? I want it to be blue.
Sometimes if a blue hosta gets too much sun they can take on a greener look. If yours is indeed getting no sun then it might be that you need to feed it to help darken the foliage. I’d trench out away from the hosta just outside the root zone and sprinkle in some Flower-tone into the trench and then cover it up and water it. Do this every spring as early in spring as you can. It may be that the hosta is missing a nutritional element it needs to stay blue. This would be especially likely if the soil is very sandy.
Hydrangeas like evenly moist soil but not wet soil. It is best to water deeply but only when necessary than wait a couple of weeks and check the soil. If you even think it felt moist, don’t water it and check again in a few days. They need less water than most folks think…nothing kills a plant quicker than over watering. Water by soaking the soil but keep the leaves dry. NEVER SPRAY WATER. Spraying you hydrangea or any of your landscape plants shocks them with cold water and promotes fungal diseases. It would be a good idea to feed your hydrangea and all your other Shrubs, trees and perennials right away. More on that here.
Yes, I do recommend using Diatomaceous earth as and organic solution to many of the insect pests found in the garden and around the yard. DE appears to be a powdery substance but on a microscopic level it is a very hard and extremely sharp particle that ire the skeletal remains of tiny sea creatures called diatoms. When sprinkled on the ground, DE will slice through the exoskeleton of insects or slice slugs that crawl through it. Any insect unlucky enough to actually ingest DE will be sliced form the inside as well. Yes, Hewitts does sell diatomaceous earth.
2 questions Why are our squash plants only getting false blossom flowers and no squash buds? How long does it take for potatoes to be ready to dig or how can we tell when to dig them up? Thank you
The problem with squash, cukes and other curcurbit producing flowers but no fruit can usually be traced to water washing the pollen out of the flowers before bees and other pollinators can pollinate the flower. If the pollen is washed out of the flower before pollination, the plant aborts the useless flower and puts its energy into producing another fresh flower. Rain can be the culprit but usually it is the gardener him/herself that is causing the problem by spray watering their garden. Remove all LAWN sprinklers from the garden and get a watering wand so you can soak the soil at the base of the plant without getting the flowers and leaves wet. You can also get those black soaker hoses that lets the water ooze out without wetting the plants. Spray watering not only washes off the pollen but wetting the leaves with cold water shocks (weakens)the plant and creates the perfect environment for fungal disease to take hold. There is no good reason to spray water your vegetable garden or flower beds unless you enjoy mushy flowers and vegetable plants that struggle to produce fruit. You can wait until frost kills the plant to harvest your potato crop. If you want ‘new potatoes’ you can harvest them from mid to late summer. I leave mine until frost so they can get as large as possible. You wouldn’t think that home grown potatoes would taste so much better than store bought but they really are…that’s why we grow them every year.
I bought a Mallow Hibiscus, just about 3 weeks ago. I read on the Internet that they like lots of water. I made sure I watered it at 8am when I went to work and again, around 8 at night to make sure it had plenty, but it is turning all brown Can you give me any suggestions? I have it in front of my house, that gets all day sun, it that the problem? When I bought it, I noticed you had it in front so I thought that would be ok Marlyn
Marlyn, Mallow hibiscus do indeed enjoy full sun. While you need to make sure that the soil stays constantly moist it is possible that you’ve been giving it too much water and the roots are drowning. Soaking it morning and night will create soil that is “soggy wet” not ‘constantly moist’ as is recommended for Mallow Hibiscus. Back off on the watering….you’re drowning the plant! Before you water again, poke your finger into the soil to a depth of 4″ to 5″. If the soil is cool and slightly moist, don’t water. Check again a couple of days later. Only when the soil at 5″ is dry should you water. Soak it thoroughly then check it again after four days or so. Never, never spray the plant with water but soak the soil below to keep the leaves dry and healthy. More on that here: See Wise Watering Without Waste http://ourgarden.freedomblogging.com/ You might remove any really brown leaves so it will grow some new fresh one to replace them. Feed them a high phosphorus liquid plant food like Blooms Plus or Jack’s Classic every fourth or fifth watering to help with the recovery. In spring, your Mallow Hibiscus won’t show any sign of life before the Lilac are blooming or even later. Be patient, they’ll be along. Peter Bowden
I planted a red bee balm in my garden. I water it at night after the sun is gone from that area of the garden, a few days ago, before this intense heat, it starting looking funny, loosing it’s bottom leaves, the top leaves have a greyish tint the them, almost looks like dust. It is in full sun and I don’t water it every night just when its really hot or we haven’t had rain for a while. Do you have any suggestions to save it. Thanks, Dotty
OK, first of all, stop watering in the evening or at night. If you water at night and get the leaves of the plant wet they will take longer to dry thus providing an extended period forfunal diseases to take hold. Water in the early morning instead. Also use a watering wand so you can soak the soil without wetting the leaves. Wet leaves are just what fungal diseases need to get started and thrive. What you describe is a fungal disease called powdery mildew and it is very common to see this disease attacking bee balm, lilac, garden phlox and some other plants. That’s the bad news. The good news is that the powdery mildew on your bee balm is specific to bee balm and won’t spread to your other garden plants nearby unless the are also bee balm. Once powdery mildew starts, you have no choice but to spray with a fungicide. Since you know that you have this issue now, you can expect it next year as well. You could start spraying or dusting the plants with the organic fungicide Garden Sulfer about once a week or after a heavy rain. Rains washes the sulfer off the leaves. Since the disease has already started, you’ll want something stronger. For this I suggest Bonide’s Infuse fungicide. It is a liquid spray and you want to apply it every 10 days or so following the directions on the package. Remember, these sprays are most effective when used as a preventative before the symptoms show up. If you like bee balm then you should start spraying by early June and continue through the the first half of August.
I have a variety of Lillys of the tall variety I think they are called stargazers. Do I cut them low when they are done blooming? Also, are there any (photo)reference guides to help distiguish weed leaves from the leaves of plants that you wish to nurture? In early summer it ‘s very hard to discriminate. Thanks in advance……..
Thanks for your question Larry. Right after your Stargazer Lily finishes flowering you should cut off the remainds of the flower (called deadheading) to prevent the lily from putting any energy into making seeds. Leave the leaves below the flowers as long as they remain green. The leaves are converting sunlight into food that is sent down to the bulb so it can grow and expand. Little bulbs will form from the sides of the original bulb and become full-sized lily bulbs producing their own flowers within a couple of years. When you have a cluster of lilies growing where you only had one, you can dig them up and replant them as individual bulbs and the process will begin again. make sure to use bone meal in your planting holes to provide phosphorus to help them root in and mature more quickly. This is one of the things I love most about lilies…their ability to reproduce quickly. As far as your question about a chart showing what weeds look like vs. what desireable plants look like, I haven’t ever seen such a chart. There are, however, charts that show what common weeds look like. You’ll have to use one of those to help you learn the common weeds and then go from there. Here’s a link to a good weed chart. http://njaes.rutgers.edu/weeds/thumbnail.asp
Cut off the foliage when you are ready to get them ready for storage. There is no need to wait until frost kills the foliage. Carefully lift (dig up) the tubers being careful not to slice the tubers with your shovel or fork. Gently hose off any soil off the tubers and let them dry for an hour or so. Dust them with a bulb dust (available at Hewitts) to prevent rotting while in storage. Place them into plastic bag like those in your grocery store’s vegetable section. Fill the bag around the tubers with vermiculite or very dry potting soil. Peat moss and sawdust are also used. Place those bags into light-proof boxes and place those boxes in an area that will be between 35° and 50° over winter. Check them a couple times over the winter to make sure they are OK. Remove any that appear to be getting mushy. If they seem to be getting limp from dryness, it is a good idea to mist them a little before they go back into storage.
Mr. Bowden, We recently added a water softening system to our well system. Will we have problems when watering our raised bed gardens from the water softened system? Should we try to bypass the softener and still use the hard water from the well? Thanks love your info on the news Pete
You should NOT use softened water on your garden or houseplants. Here’s what an ag agent at Texas A&M about it. “Softened water is not recommended for watering plants, lawns and gardens due to its sodium content. Care must also be taken that water used in recharging a water softener be disposed through a storm drain or sewer due to its damaging effects. If you are on a septic tank, the logical method of brine disposal is to discharge the brine into the septic tank and soil absorption field where some leaching of sodium salts will occur. Other alternatives include a separate holding tank which could be evacuated by a vacuum truck or a separate disposal field or discharge point that does not affect neighbors’ property.” Get a bypass installed and use that hard water. The plants may benefit from the minerals in the water but will suffer from the sodium in the water softened water.
I added lime to my vegetable garden last fall and now it has a ph of 7.5. Is this too alkaline to grow vegetables? Should I add gypsum?
Oops! I guess you over did it with the lime. You’ll need to turn in some garden sulpher to bring the pH down to 6.5 or so. Follow the direction on the package to determine how much to use for the size of the area you have.
i did a soil test and found my garden has very low nitrogen , it states that i need to add ammonium nitrate . but all the others tested very high how do i add only one thing ? all the furtilizers i have seen are 5-10-5, 10-5-5 etc.
It sounds like you need some Milorganite…it is not real strong but is almost totally nitrogen (5-2-0). Here’s a link…Hewitts has Milorganite as well: http://www.milorganite.com/home/
My pachysandra is dying in clumps around my maples…it used to be extremely lush…what to do??? thanks!!
i just bought alyssum today, and just wondering if i should cut them back before i put them in the ground? and if they don’t come back if i can bring them back, had them last year as a border along my drive way, but, they were small, not leggy yet….so should i cut them back or just plant them in the ground?
Once they’re out of the pack, they should fill in so, no, don’t cut them back.
is it too late right now (June 27) to prune a lilac tree or a hemlock tree. My hemlock tree is dead on the bottom but has branches growing up on the top. someone told me to cut the whole thing down and it would fill in on the bottom better.
You can prune your lilac now without any problems. The best time to prune a lilac is right after the flowers have finished. Lilacs form buds this summer that winter over and open in spring. Be aware that new growth that occurs near the pruned areas might not have time to form buds so there might not be flowers on those branches next spring. To prevent shocking the plant, don’t remove more than 1/3 pf the total branch structure. Likewise the hemlock can be pruned lightly now without problems. It is normal on most evergrees that the lower branches turn brown as the upper part of the plant fills in. As the upper part fills in it block sunlight from reaching the lower branches. Again, don’t remove more than 1/3 of the foliage to avoid shocking the plant.
Is it safe to plant impatiens? Last year we were told not to plant because of a fungas and impatience were not being offered in most nurseries. I see them for sale again – is it safe to plant them?
The situation is basically the same as last year. You can plant them but the chances are that they will fail. Click HERE for more information on Downy Mildew. There aren’t any fungicides you can use to control. Greenhouse growers can produce the plants in their controlled conditions but there’s nothing the public can use. If you have no history of the disease where you plan on planting them, you may get away with it but the disease is still spreading. It would be best if everyone stopped growing them in the hope that the disease will subside but that isn’t happening. It is probably best to assume that this is a forever situation. Wax begonia are the next best substitute. They are working on breeding disease resistant varieties but that will take several years at least. There are some people that insist on having impatiens so we still carry a small amount each year.
I have hydrangeas they were planted 3 yrs ago, first year they bloomed . They have not bloomed since .Ifeel that I have taken good care with them , they are growing taller with lots of leaves. No blooms.
This is pretty difficult to answer without knowing what type of hydrangea you have. The only clue I get is that they are getting taller which means that it is possible that they are getting leggy due to too little direct sun or maybe not enough enough phosphorus is being provided. Espoma Flower-Tone would help with that. The best suggestion I have is for you to visit this website to figure out what type of hydrangea you have and how to properly care for it: . . http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/
I was reading your article about crabgrass and on line says, 3. An area treated with crabgrass preventer should not be raked or roughed up (kids, dogs, etc.) for four to six weeks so that the preventive barrier is not disturbed. I have crabgrass in my flower bed, can I rake it and them put the crabgrass preventer on the dirt? Can I plant in that area and if I do, do I have to wait before planting?
Crabgrass comes from seed each year so, if you have clumps of grass growing already in your flowerbeds then it isn’t crabgrass but some other perennial grass that comes back from an established root system, not from seeds like crabgrass. There are weed preventers that can be used in flowerbeds that will stop weed seeds from sprouting. There’s Preen and the organic alternative Corn Gluten. You’ll need to still pull any weeds or grass that are there now and then apply the Preen or Corn Gluten. Any seeds that blow into the flowerbed (from the lawnmower for instance) won’t be able to sprout through the barrier of Preen or Corn Gluten. If you dig or scratch up the surface of the flowerbed it breaks the barrier and seeds WILL be able to sprout and grow. Wait to apply your weed seed preventer until after all your planting is completed. Peter Bowden
I am desperate to get rid of a grape vine that has taken over my yard. It grows and makes a canopy over my flowers and kills them. I need a permanent solution? What do I use to get rid of this monster?
Go to Hewitts and get a bottle of Bonide’s Stump and Vine Killer. Follow the vines back until you locate the main stem where the vine emerges for the ground. Cut the vine a few inches above where it emerges from the soil. Where you have made the cut, paint the Vine Killer (full strength..do not dilute) onto the cut and bark just below the cut. Be careful not to get it on any of the other plants nearby or it will kill them too. If there are multiple vines emerging from the soil, you’ll need to cut and paint them all with the Vine Killer. That’s it….end of vine.
Good afternoon Peter,I have 2 impatience hanging plants. I bought them a couple of weeks ago. Unfortunately, I let them in my hot car for about 3 hours…..flowers started drying up. I have them hanging now but they are in some sunlight. I have been watering from the get go and the buds are not flowering. What should I do ? Thank you for your attention in this matter.
Well, I guess you’ve learned to bring your plants right home on a hot day…I’d say you’re lucky they survived at all. Now you’ll need to ne patient with your impatiens. Keep the soil just lightly moist but not wet. You don’t want to drown them at this point. Some sun is good but not a lot of hot afternoon sun. You’ll probably lose some leaves and the first round of flowers since the buds aren’t opening. A light feeding with Jack’s Classic Blossom Booster will help too. Dilute per package but no stronger (more isn’t better). It will take a month or so before they start to look happy again. Peter Bowden
I have started a new veggie garden this year only to find out my garden and my entire lawn is infested with grubs. What is an effective way to get rid of the grubs that is also safe for my garden and is my garden doomed for this year.
Don’t worry about grubs in the vegetable garden. If you see them just step on them to kill them. Early in June they turn into Japanese Beetles and you can spray for them then if they seem to be a big problem. The lawn, if it is healthy can withstand up to 4 grubs per square foot. If the lawn is suffering from the grubs then you should start treating every July…the grubs you have now hatched last year. Here’s a blog post all about grub control
Make sure they are planted un full sun…7+ hours. Every spring pound holes 6″ deep among or around them and pour Espoma Bulb-Tone into the holes to feed them. When they do start flowering, make sure to cut off the spent flower stem but leave the leaves on as long as they are green. You can cut the leaves back after they turn yellow. More on that here.
While Miracle-gro soil has some nutrients added, I’d suggest adding additional nutrients in the form of high quality organic garden food like Espoma Garden-tone. Miracle -gro food isn’t organic and doesn’t do anything to help the health of the soil…the soil that feeds your plants. In addition to nutrients, Espoma “tone” products also provide a compliment of beneficial soil organisms that help build the soil and release nutrients from the soil that might otherwise be unavailable to the plants.
I want to plant a knockout rose in my yard to replace another shrub. Since it is the middle of August, is it to late?
Not too late at all. Get it in right away and add some Bio-tone starter food to the planting hole to get it established before winter.
I noticed tiny black eggs on the underside of the leaves on one of my brussel sprout plants. They are in small, round bunches and resemble caviar. What are they and how do I get rid of them?
Your question is a little tricky since I can only go by your description. I’d suggest bringing a leaf with the sample eggs to one of the Hewitts locations for a positive ID. Having said that, I make an educated guess that you probably have Squash Bug eggs on your brussel sprouts. The easiest way to control them is to remove and discard the eggs before they hatch. Once they hatch, the beetles can be controlled with insecticidal soap or other contact killer rated for use in the vegetable garden. Here’s a link for more information on Squash Bugs http://www.planetnatural.com/site/xdpy/kb/squash-bug-control.html There are other insects that may attack your brussel sprouts. Here’s a helpful link to identifying them. http://www.harvestwizard.com/2009/06/brussels_sprouts_growing_probl.html
I was wondering if I could split the pots of mums I just bought. Even though I bought the smallest size, I have some smaller pots I want to plant them in and wondered if splitting the root balls of each mum would kill it. It would be great if I could cut the root ball in half and use a smaller portion of the whole pot in my smaller planters.
Your mums are probably in flower right now. Plants are expending maximum energy during the flowering process. Cutting into the root system during the flowering cycle might not actually kill the mum but it will shock it hard enough to cause it to abort the flowers. I assume you bought them to enjoy the blooms so I’d suggest that you not try and divide the plant right now.
I just dug up the caladium bulbs I planted this spring so that I can reuse them next year. Should I trim off all the roots? One of the larger bulbs have two mini-bulbs attached. Should I seperate the little ones from the big one? How do I store them? I was going to put them in an onion bag and keep in my basement. Is that the best way? Thanks for your help. Kris
Thanks for your question Kris Now that you have them out of the ground, let them sit on some paper for a week or until the leaves have dried out. Trim off the leaves and any roots that have shriveled and dried. Your onion bag plan sounds good but make sure you store them in an area that says between 50° and 60°. The area also needs to be dry…humidity increases the chance of molds and fungus. If your basement tends to be humid, you might consider dusting them with a fungicidal bulb dust (like the Bonide Bulb Dust at Hewitt’s) before storage. Check them regularly in winter and discard any that seem to be getting mushy or very soft. You can pot them up inside in March and bring them upstairs to a sunny window. Then they’ll be a nice size when they go out at the end of May or early June. Don’t let them get any sun at all when you move them outside in to avoid sunburning the leaves . Peter Bowden
f a snap hot of an area was brought in are there design people on site to help plan out a ;andscape?
Bring your snapshot into Hewitt’s and we can make some great suggestions for you. We’ll also be able to make better suggestions if you have an idea of how much sun the area gets and what direction it faces.
Peter, Want to plant brussel sprouts. Seed packet says 4 months before fall frost, which is Oct 3 here in Albany. Do I sow directly in garden June 3? They sell transplants now, wouldn’t a transplant be too early to plant in May, for Harvesting after frost in October? Your planting guide says direct seed may 15 – June 10. Please help me resolve this confusion. Thanks Peter Best, Larry
Brussel Sprout transplants (started from seed indoors earlier or purchased at the garden center) can be planted now for harvest in summer. Seeds can be sown in June as you state for harvest in October. The crop sown in summer will be the better and more flavorful crop since it will mature in the cold days of October.
We just built container gardens, filled them with a mix of topsoil/purchased compost/peat moss, and planted seedlings (started from seeds a month previous) about 2 weeks ago. The zuccini in particular looks a bit rough — yellowish, weathered leaves – almost a bit scorched maybe? The corn also looks yellow-ish. I’m new at this – any ideas? thank you!
When you start seedlings indoors they will have trouble making the transition from the dimmer light inside to the bright sun outside. It is best to provide them shade for the first few days outside and gradually reduce the shade until they can handle the full sun they want. Also make sure that you haven’t buried dirt up the stem any higher than it was in the pot you started them in. While burying the stem is OK on tomatoes it is not OK on the rest of your garden plants including trees and shrubs as well as perennial and annual flowers. Both squash and corn will do better if they are started from seed sown directly in the garden. Squash in particular are sensitive to transplanting and often suffer from the transition. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and a few others veggies need to be started indoors in winter to produce in our short growing season but the bulk of our crops do best when directly sown in the garden…and it is easier and cheaper too! In fact, my blog this week is about just that…fear of seeds: http://blog.timesunion.com/gardening/fear-of-seeds/727/
I have beautiful hostas and want to transplant and separate them. They are tall and when I transplant them, they “flop”. Am I supposed to cut them down before moving them?
The best time to transplant hostas would be in very early spring before the hostas have come out of dormanct or in early fall after frost has sent them into dormancy. Anytime you transplant them after they’ve leafed ot, they are going to do the “flop”. I wouldn’t cut them back since this will shock them even more than transplanting them at the wrong time. The best you can do to alleviate some of the shock will be to keep them moist as they try to survive the hot days of summer ahead,
I use tomato cages attached to hardwood stakes pounded into the ground. I will even add metal staked to the hardwood stakes if they get really heavy.
hey peter,my green beans are coming up but they are yellow,brown and just not looking very good.what could it be and what can I do about it. every year they usually look good but not this year.thanks barry
It sounds like the symptoms of drowning. Let the soil dry out more between watering.
Not at all…pansies love the cool weather and can even handle a little snow.
Mulch any deeper than 4″ is excessive. Also, make sure that you never pile mulch up against the bark or stem of your plants. Mulch or dirt piled against the stem and bark of plants slowly strangles the plant. When you mulch, the last thing you do I go around to each plant and brush the mulch back until you can thee the stem where it enters the soil and leave it that way so the plant can breathe…more on that HERE.
how do flowers and plants at Saratoga Racetrack and other public places grow so very large? We use miracle grow as per directions but never have such huge plants. Thanks
Miracle Gro is OK but Jacks’ Blossom Booster is better for more flowers. Use it every 2 weeks. No matter what you use, you’ll never be able to duplicate the look they get at the track. Those planters are started very early and grown along all winter and spring in greenhouses and then brought out in summer a month or so before the track opens. They are lavished with care throughout the growing season as well. Without large greenhouses, you’ll never match their displays…just something else that is special about Saratoga.
My garden helper cut back my hydrangas to nothing. They have grown alot of leaves but I dont think they will have any flowers. Last year the smallest one had no flowers and the slightly larger one had 3. Can they be saved and can I get any flowers this year (they are endless summer)
Your endless summer will bloom on new wood so yes, it should flower this year. Hydrangeas will flower best when they are fed. Nothing will boost more flowers than feeding it Jack’s Classic Blossom Booster every week and a half from now through mid August. Dilute as directed on the package and pour the food on the soil below the plant keeping the leaves as dry as possible. HERE’S A LINK to more on care of you Endless Summer hydrangea.
I am new to knock-out roses and have recently planted some in my yard. Can you tell me what I need to do to them to prepare them for winter? Thanks!
The beauty of Knock out roses is that there is little needed for them to come through winter. Stop trimming off the spent flowers and let the seed pods (called hips) form. Once freezing weather arrives, you can trim them back about 1/3…that’s about it. When we get snow, you can shovel it onto the rose to help protect it from drying wind. If we don’t get snow then cover the area around the base of the rose with evergreen boughs to keep the soil cold. Once it starts to grow in spring, feed it with Espoma Rose-tone and trim off any stems that died over winter…that’s it!
None really…there are some repeat bloomers like Stella D’oro dayliliies that can send up a lesser second round of flowers but it is the nature of perennials to bloom for a specific 2-3 week period and then go to seed. The trick with perennials is to have a mixture of early, mid and late season blooming varieties. For all summer flowering, you’ll need to look to the annuals. They only last one season but flower continuously right up until frost. Roses are another option for continuous color all summer.
Hello Peter, I have a couple questions. it’s now the end of April 2014. 1. When can I plant new bushes? I lost 5-7 andromeda’s (think that’s the name) this past winter. 2. What time of year can I move my rose bush? 3. What 3-4 flowering bushes like full day sun from 11-dusk and which ones like morning sun and afternoon shade? 4. Last year my two year old azalea loved being in partial shade under a pine tree, this year there are only about six. Buds on it. Should it be moved or fertilized?, thank you for you help. Stacie Ryan
You can start planting shrubs and tree as soon as the ground has thawed and can be worked…the earlier the better.
Move them right away before any signs of growth appear. once it has leafed out, the shock of transplanting will likely killit. This is true for most shrubs, trees and perennials. Make sure to blend a good starter food like Espoma Bio-Tone into the soil at the bottom of the planting hole.
Lilacs, spirea, weigela, roses, althea…there are too many to list.
Azaleas, rhododendron, Andromeda…all the broadleaf, flowering evergreens.
4. Last year my two year old azalea loved being in partial shade under a pine tree, this year there are only about six. Buds on it. Should it be moved or fertilized?, thank you for you help.
Feed them (and all your landscape plants right away. This winter was rough on azaleas and broadleaf flowering evergreens. They for buds in the fall and those buds have to survive winter to flower in spring. The unrelenting dry, cold wind this winter dried the buds out and they have failed. You are not alone with this problem. Consider building burlap winbreaks next fall to protect you broadleaf evergreens.
Always fee the soil before you water your hanging baskets. If you even think the soil felt moist, wait a day and check again. Nothing kills a potted plant quicker than drowning from overwatering…it is a VERY common mistake. Newbies are always asking “how often should I water it?”. There is no good “one a week”or “twice a month” answer since every plant, container and situation make that impossible. Also, NEVER spray water…just water the soil but keep the foliage dry. Here’s blog post that explains why.
What can I put around my garden to keep the squirrels out, last yr they ate my entire garden. Does that shake away squirrel repelant work and if so where can I get it? thank you
The easy answer is a dog or cat…from there it gets more difficult. Just about everyone with a yard has squirrels. Some of us love them and some of us love them but wish they would leave our gardens alone…but how? At Hewitt’s we have ‘Repels-All’ which is a combination of dried blood, putrescent whole egg solids and garlic oil. It can be quite effective and claims to last for ‘up to 2 months’. The reality is that it will last only until the next rain shower washes it into the soil. You’ll need to reapply after every rainstorm to remain protected. We also have ‘Critter Ridder’ from Havahart that contains oil of black pepper, piperine, and capsaicin and can also work well if reapplied after rain. You also ask about ‘Shake Away Squirrel Repellent’…we have the ‘Shake Away Small Citter Repellent’ which doesn’t list squirrels on the label but is the same ingredient (fox urine). The idea here is that small rodents have a very keen sense of smell and, since foxes eat them, they will steer clear of an area that smells like them. Once again, fox urine will need to reapplied after a rainstorm. To be most effective, apply these repellents as a stronger barrier around the area to be protected rather than scattering it about everywhere. You may also find that a repellent works well for a few years and then seems not to work. This means that the animals have become accustomed to the repellent and it is time to switch to a different one for a few years or until the animals become used to that one.
We have a 400 sq ft garden where we grow tomatoes, peppers, corn, peas, lettuce, gourds and a few other vegetables. I would like to plant a cover crop this fall and would like to know the best thing to grow and when to plant it. Thank you.
I’ suggest winter rye. It is fast growing, will control erosion and help buid the soil when turned under in the spring. It can be sown as soon as the crops are finished. It can germinate in coll weather so late September/early October seedings are possible. Winter rye will green up early in spring and can help get the soil dry enough to till a bit earlier. Winter rye can get tall in spring so it may need to be mowed down before getting turned under in spring.
I am starting my veg. seeds at work. We cannot use grow lights. An suggestions on how I can keep them from becoming long and spinly? Thanks.
Thanks for your question Al, How unfortunate that you can’t use grow lights. The reason seedling get long and spindly is that they are not getting enough light and are reaching for more. The ONLY windows that have any chance of providing anywhere near enough light are south windows. Even then, with days as short as they still are. your seedlings will reach for the light. But, lets get back to basics….it is a month too early to start most of your seeds. Planting season for tomatoes and other tender seedlings is the middle of May…three months (12 weeks) from now. The earliest seeds that need to get started like leeks and impatiens need to get started indoors 10 weeks before planting. Tomatoes and peppers should be started 6 to 8 weeks before mid May so that means the middle of March…about a month from right now. All this information is on the back of the seed pack. There is no real advantage to starting your seed a month too early since they will be the stretchy, leggy seedlings you’re trying to avoid. By waiting another month (in the case of tomatoes and peppers) you’ll have longer days and the seedlings won’t get as leggy. Spring won’t come any earlier just because you start your seed too early 😉 Get a calendar and designate the week of 5/15 -5/21 as “PLANTING WEEK” . Then mark the week before that WEEK 1 (one week before planting) and keep going back labeling each week with the next higher number. You should end up with the week of March 20 – 26 as WEEK 8. Sometime between WEEK 8 and WEEK 6 is when you should start your tomatoes and peppers depending on the variety. This information is on the seed pack. You can read all the other seed pack and make notes on your new “Seed Starting Calendar” that you’ve created so you’ll know when to start what. Remember, starting your seeds too early doesn’t gain you a thing. I’d also suggest a small fan to move the air around your seedlings once they sprout…it can help strengthen the stems. Be patient and you’ll have better plants for May…now you just have to convince the person with the south-facing window to let you set up shop there 😉
We have many leaves that were not raked up last fall, I am expanding my vegetable garden and would like to turn the leaves and some sand into rather heavy clay soil. Should I add anything else because of the leaves?
Adding sand and organic matter to the soil is a great idea. The leaves will break down and help loosen the soil and add somenutritional value as well. Leaves will also lower the pH of the soil so it would be a good idea to check the pH in spring and fall to make sure you’re keeping the soil’s pH around 6.5/ Here’s an excerpt from my vegetable gardening seminar that talks about pH. Here’s alink to the seminar schedule in case you want to drop by: http://www.hewitts.com/meetpeterbowden.html Check the pH Once you’ve beefed up your new garden with plenty of organic matter, it is time to check the pH (acidity) of the soil. The benefits of properly adjusting the pH of the soil and the benefits of limestone itself are far reaching. I could carry on for pages about nutrients in the soil (or from the fertilizer you pay good money for) being “bound up” and unavailable to plants because of acidic soil. I could write reams on how the microorganisms that “feed” your lawn die off in soils with a low pH. I could rant and rave about how important calcium and magnesium (from limestone) are in the formation of plant fiber or how osmosis (the ability of plants to draw moisture from the soil) is impeded in acidic soil. Let’s just say, it’s VERY important. Here’s the deal. There’s a tendency for soil to gradually become acidic over time. Decomposing organic matter, fertilizer and acid rain all contribute to acidification of the soil. In heavier soils like clay, this happens very slowly. In looser soils like sand, acidification occurs more rapidly. The more fertilizer and organic matter you apply to your lawn or garden, the more often you should check the pH. Different plants prefer different pH levels. Most vegetables grow best in slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.5 to 7) while your lawn will be healthier if the soil is neutral (pH 7). Every once in a while I run into someone who’s heard that lime is good for the lawn and they’ll ask, “I’ve got a 10,000 sq. ft. garden and I’ve never limed it. How much lime should I apply?” To the uninformed, this seems like a reasonable question. To me, it’s like asking your mechanic, ”I have a mid-sized sedan. How much oil do I need to add?” There’s no way your mechanic could answer unless you allowed him/her to look at the dipstick. The inexpensive and easy-to-use soil pH test kit is your “dipstick” to determine how much lime you need to apply for healthy plant growth. If I’m asked, “I have a 10,000 sq. ft. garden and the pH is 6.0. How much lime should I apply?” I can then say that you need 10-40 lb. bags of pelletized lime to bring your soil’s pH up to the desired 7.0 that it should be. Of course, you may not need to ask since the information is provided in the pH test kit. Once you’ve corrected the pH, you shouldn’t need to apply it again for 3 to 5 years, maybe even longer depending on your of soil type.
how deep should i rototill my garden? its going to be 24’x24′. there may be large rock in some spots.
Cover the area with whatever organic matter (aged manure) you’re going to till in and then rototill to a depth of 8″ or so. Good luck with those rocks!
What would you suggest I use for an organic fungicide? What about Green Cure? Does Hewitt’s carry Green Cure? Our garden last year had fungus on everything except lettuce. Thanks.
What would you suggest I use for an organic fungicide? What about Green Cure? Does Hewitt’s carry Green Cure? Our garden last year had fungus on everything except lettuce. Thanks.
i have beets in my garden up about1″.i have noticed quite a few ants at the base of the greens.is this because all of the rain we have been getting or should i be concerned about something else? and should i let them be or try to kill them with something?
Beets are sweet and ants like sweets. A couple of ants aren’t worth reacting to butm, if it seems that they are hariming the beets then I’d sprinkle some diatomaceous earth around the beets . Diatomaceous earth is the sharp skeletons of diatoms. There are very small and sharp (on a microscopic level) and will slice the ants if they attempt to go near the beets. All safe for you thugh I’d wast the beets before eating them. I’m sure you do that anyway. Peter B
Normally this time of the year my impatients are gorgeous, however this year they are dying off daily. It starts with the flowers & buds & eventually the whole plant disappears. I cannot find anything on them that could be eating them. Is it because of the dry summer? I know they like a lot of water. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Val
I would like to see a sample or photo of your impatiens to be sure. Maybe you could bring it into one of out locations for a Manager to look at. Is there any white powdering substance on the plants? If so, it probably is a fungus called Powdery Mildew, which can be treated organically with Garden Sulfur or chemically with Daconil. If this is not the case, my inclination is to think that is water related. Try to keep your plants evenly moist through-out the growing season, and add a light dose of Blossom Booster fertilizer.
Peter, We reseeded our lawn a couple of weeks ago and the new grass is growing in but it still looks very patchy. I used the recommended setting on the spreader but I think that heavy rain storm we had last week lifted and washed away a lot of grass seed (I saw a lot in puddles by the road at edge of the lawn )How long should I wait before I start to try filling the bare patches? Will the grass grow or spread out? I don’t want to disturb or destroy the new grass that has grown in with loosening the soil again etc. but I don’t want anything to start invading my lawn again either in the bare spots. Can I just drop some grass seed on the bare spots without and keep it watered or will this not work? Thanks again for all your help!
Fescue and bluegrass seeds take about 2 weeks just to sprout. At first there is a single blade but each will grow into a clump of grass covering about 2″ by 2″ square. Over time they will fill in even more. Since the pesky storms have washed the seed around you may want to overseed the worst areas. You can do it right away just remember that you’ll need to keep it watered even as the other grass matures. Starting a lawn from seed is a tricky task because of the constant light watering necessary. These thunderstorms aren’t helping the situation either.
Is it too early to plant Martha Washington geraniums? I am planning on potting them outside.Thank you!
It won’t be safe for tender annuals like MW geraniums outside until about the second week of May. As long as there is the possibility of frost tender annuals must be protected. If the posts are small enough to move inside on any night that will drop below 32° then you could plant them and protect them as necessary.
My rhododendrons (2) are almost 4 years old and have not bloomed for the past 2 years. They are in the North at the suggestion of a local nursery but do get some sun. Is there a special plant food for them? They are not growing even though I feed them. I would appreciate your suggestions.
Northern exposure is rough on rhodos. Drying winter wind dries out the foliage unless there is some sort of windbreak. Rhododendron can take morning sun until about noon so the east-facing wall is best…that way the house will provide shelter form winter winds that blows from the north and west. Rhodos set their buds the summer before and those buds wait until spring to open. If winter wind dries out the buds too much, they just dry up and fall off in the spring without opening. Yes, poke some holes out away from the trunk of the rhodos and pour some Holly-Tone evergreen food into the holes right away. See the package for the correct amount to use. They need the food now and you could fee again in 8 weeks, this should be done every spring. Check to make sure you haven’t piled mulch up against the bark of the stems of the plant where they come out of the soil this smothers the crown of the plant and makes it hard for moisture and nutrients to move through the bark to the stems and leaves. It may take them a couple of years to regain the extra vigor they need to produce flowers. If they form flower buds this summer, then you can expect flower in spring…perhaps building some windbreak of burlap will help them endure the northern exposure. If they are getting less than 4 hours of direct sun a day in summer than they will have trouble flowering.
We have a great selection of stakes and trellis material.
I was given Asian Lilly bulbs for Easter and put them in a pot with the condensed dirt (looked like a hockey puck) that came with them. They are now really tall and have flower buds on them and almost ready to bloom. My questions are: how long do they bloom, do I have to leave them in the pot, can I plant them outside and when (while blooming or when the flower dies like tulips). Thanks, Connie
Enjoy them in the pot while the flower (a week or two) and the cut off the spent flowers but leave all the leaves. Plant the bulb with the leaves in a sunny spot outside adding a little bone meal to the planting hole. It will return next year and each year you get more stems with more flowers to enjoy.
I ?bought some six inch pots of flowers from your green house. Should they be allowed to harden off? How long will they need
No need to harden off those plants. They can go in as soon as you get a chance to plant them.
I wouldn’t worry about a few grubs in the garden. In a couple of weeks or so they will pupate and become the adult beetle. For them you can spray with sevin or eight to kill the beetles but, by then, they will not be grubs in the garden. Grub controls should NOT be used in food growing areas.
Yes, we have the ITOH peony Barzella.
This is a tough situation. You’ll need to install a 4′ fence with the bottom foot buried so that the woodchuck can’t push or dig its way under the fence. The other option is to trap the varmint with a havahart trap.
have a small red bettle on lilies, he is about 1/4 inch long. how to get rid of itit seems to be eating the liily
You have scarlet lily beetles. They are a recent arrival from Asia. To kill the beetles on contact, spray with Bonide Beetle killer. For ongoing control after that I’d suggest Bonide Bon-Neem II. sprayed every 5 days the next month until they subside (are no longer feeding). This will kill any larvae that hatch from eggs that the adult beetle may have laid before you killed them with the Beetle Killer. If you start spraying with the Bon-Neem II next year before the beetles show up, you may repel them and prevent any damage.
Hi. My tomato cages keep falling over. The dirt will not allow me to mount them far enough into the dirt. What else can I use. They are heavy & on the ground? Thank you
I use cages but have add hardwood or even metal stakes to hold them up.
hi I have double headed begonias in a tub, im just wondering why the water is takeing along time to soak in to the soil when I water them also they don’t seem to be flowereing much, I bought them from a garden centre about 6wks, I water them everyday, is this too much or not enough?
I’m not sure why the water isn’t soaking in quickly…probably the type of soil you have. It sounds like you are watering WAY too much. Always check the soil by poking you finger into the soil an inch or so.. If it feels cool and moist wait another day and check again. Depending on the size of the pot, it shouldn’t need watering but every few days. It may be drowning and that will prevent it from flowering. You could feed it with a soluble plant food like Jack’s Blossom Booster every three weeks or so and that will help give the plant the energy it needs to flower.
tried everything in the last 6 years to get rid of tomato blight nothing works is there anything I can add to the soil to get rid of it
You need to move your tomatoes to a new location each year. Once the spores of the disease are in the soil they will remain and reinfest the next year’s crop. You should wait 2 years before planting there again. Black or red plastic mulch covering the soil will also help prevent the spores from splashing up onto the leaves…this is how the diseases get their start. Also NEVER spray your tomatoes with water. Wet leaves are the perfect place for disease to take hold. Cutting off the leaves closest to the soil will also help.
Milky Spore has nothing to do with your bulb planting schedule one way or the other. I’d get the Milky Spore down right away though. Plant you bulbs whenever you normally do.
Peter, we are planning to plant tomatoes (mostly grape/cherry and Big Boy types) in pots. What is the best growing medium for that kind of crop? Last year we used potting mix, which was OK, but did not result in much abundance.Many thanks. Rob
I like the Espoma Organic Potting soil. However, don’t count on the soil alone to provide all the nutrients for the plants. You’ll need to add food. Espoma Bio-Tone can be added to the potting soil and you can also promote even faster growth and fruit production by feeding them with Jack’s Classic Blossom Booster every 2 weeks.
It is common for the male flowers to appear before the female flowers. Be patient. Also make sure not to spray the plant (especially the flowers) with water. Unhealthy for the plants but, worst of all, it washes the pollen out of the flowers so there is nothing for the bees to move around. No pollen, no fruit.
I found a bug on my columbines today. There were 3-4 flowers that had been eaten quite significantly on the edges of the outer (fuchsia) petals, and the stamens were eaten right off. I took a picture of the culprit, which you can see at my Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/phylogenyart). It looked like some sort of caterpillar that’s greenish gray with segment lines along the body, no fuzz, and had a pronged tail to hold on to one petal while eating through the center of the flower (how I found him). So, my question is whether this bug is a bad one or a good one? I planted the columbines (and sedum, and coneflowers too) to attract pollinators, and would love for this to be a caterpillar for some lovely butterfly, but I’m not sure whether it’s a pest that I’ve unknowingly attracted to my garden.
It looks like a columbine sawfly;
Spray it with a good contact killer like insecticidal soap. That will kill the sawfly larvae but won’t harm the pollinators like the bees and butterflies.
I bought 4 large asters and planted them last week.Two are wiltingAnd might be dead. I gave them lots of water!What could be wrong?
Two possibilities…you buried them too deep hand have dirt piled up too high on the stems. Brush the soil back until you find the original soil level. The other possibility is that you’re drowning them. As long as the soil is lightly moist, they’ll be fine. If the soil is constantly soggy the roots can’t breathe and the drown causing the plant to wilt…this is a very common mistake.
Here’s a link to show how to figure out when to start seeds indoors that need to be started indoors as well as a schedule for what can be directly sown into the garden once it warms up.
I have a plant in my outside garden that produces purple/blue flowers that open in the morning and close at night. It also is spreading very quickly. I am trying to figure out what the plant is and how I can control it from spreading. It has deep hard roots.
Hard to say without a picture but it sounds like it might be morning glory. If it is among your garden plants you’ll have to pull/dig it out. If it is not, you can spray it with Kleen-up plant killer. Remember though that that spray will kill any plant it touches and should never be used in a vegetable garden. Always read and follow the directions on the package. If you can bring a bit of the plant to the garden center, we can ID it for you.
My Peonies are covered with a white mildew and some of them have a blight causing the foilage to turn dark. What should I do for them? Do I cut off the foilage? Will it affect next year’s growth and bloom?
Once the foliage starts to yellow, cut it off and remove it from the yard in a garbage bag. The best way to control powdery Mildew is with preventative sprayings with copper of sulfur fungicide before the symptoms show…around mid-May through mid-June. It is difficult to control once the white powdery coating on the leaves shows up. None of the should create problems for next year’s flowering cycle.
Was given some hostas that have been split and potted they were just roots and stumps, one pot has sprouted and grown leaves but the other pots stumps are turning white and soft.
I’d get them into the ground right away. In the past, I divided some and was a little too aggressive and the smaller clumps didn’t make it.
I have a small section of my yard which I wish to turn into a vegetable garden. It has scraggly grass now, and since I live in Wilton, a sandy base under a foot or so of topsoil. How do I transition into an area suitable for vegetable gardening?
Great…sandy soil is a great base for gardening. Make sure the area is sunny…7+ hours of sun per minimum during June. More sun is even better. To beef up the soil, you’ll want to add compost. You can buy that at the garden center this year but I’d suggest starting a compost bin so you can recycle your garden and kitchen scraps into your own compost. For the best result’s I’d turn in some organic Espoma Bio-Tone food into the area. Bio-Tone will provide a with lots of great organic nutrients. Best of all it will supercharge the soil with microbe and mycorrhizal fungi. These microbe work with the roots of the plant to gather the nutrients that the plants need from the soil…amazing stuff! These microbes live on and spread from year to year so adding them can really enhance your garden’s health and productivity. More on Bio-Tone HERE More on mycorrhizal fungi HERE.
So many chipmunks this year! In an ill-advised attempt to get rid of them, I put moth balls sown their holes. I thought they didn’t like the smell, no idea it was poison (naïve, yes). Now I am noticing that the hedge of schrubs under my window is turning brown and dying. Yes, many chipmunk holes under this hedge, so, yes, many moth balls. I am now assuming I killed my hedge. I am thinking of putting in a shade garden when I remove the shrubs. I am wondering if I ruined the soil and what I can do to correct my mistake. Thanks!
That is very bad….yes, between the chipmunks burrowin and dump mothballs down the holes, you have probably killed the hedge and, hopefully it doesn’t get into the ground water and hopefully you aren’t using well water in your home. How long it will persist in the soil? no strong data that I can find but I’d suspect that it will be late in the summer before that area will be safe for plants. Here’s some links you might find useful. BTW…MoleMax repels chipmunks.
I am a pretty new vegetable gardener. Last year something kept making little bore holes into my peppers. Not into the stem, but the fruit itself. The holes were little, maybe a few millimeters in diameter. I just found the same type of hole in a very timy start of a pepper. I haven’t found any worms/caterpillars/bugs around to explain it. Any suggestions? I have not used any type of insecticide so far, but since I am a little more experienced, I want to try a lttle harder!
Welcome to the world of vegetable gardening. Kudos to you for not getting discouraged by last year’s lousy growing season From your description and the timing (small fruit stage) I’d surmise that you are having a problem with pepper weevils. Pepper weevils are fairly common and easily controlled by dusting or spraying with the insecticide Eight from Bonide. You’ll want to start spraying right away and repeat once a week for three weeks. That should take care of it but if the symptom returns, start spraying again. You can use Eight up until 3 days before harvest. As always read the label and follow the directions you find there. Make sue to remove any fruit displaying the holes from the garden…don’t compost them, throw them in the trash. In the future, you could try covering the peppers with a floating row cover (called ‘Grass Fast’ at Hewitts) early in the season to prevent the weevil adults from getting at the peppers.
I bought some shallot plants at the beginning of June. I transplanted them into a garden plot. It then rained for almost two weeks straight. The green shoots on one plant have all turned brown and shriveled up, the other plant is mostly brown. Every where i look online it says they are ready to harvest when this happens. I dont think they transplanted well. What do i do?
Ugh…what a bummer. It sounds as though they must’ve rotted in the rain. Had they been planted a little earlier and had a chance to start growing they might have been handle the rain better. My only suggestion would be to replant but they won’t get as large as they would have with an earlier start.
I have 2 Mulberry trees, 1 red, 1 white under which I’d like to plant something perennial and hardy. Right now, I’m dealing with an ugly, almost bare lawn because, of course, nothing grows really well with almost no sun. Am I limited to hostas or do I even have that option? Are there any other options?
K., First I’d like to dispel the idea that “of course, nothing grows really well with almost no sun.” I’m sure that it seems that way because it IS difficult to grow a lawn or plants in shade but, it really has little to do with the shade. The real culprit here isn’t the shade but the roots of those mulberry trees. Your mulberry trees have a large and fairly shallow root system that is competing with the very shallow roots of your lawn. Guess which is winning that competition? That’s right… the trees. If you plant grass types that can grow in shade like those in Hewitt’s Shady Blend of grass seed then it will do fine under the mulberries. This is good news for you though since there are lots of option for perennials and annuals that can thrive in shade. Annuals for shade include impatiens, coleus, non-stop and wax begonias and others. You certainly can grow hostas and there are lots of interesting types to choose from. Other shade perennials to consider would be heuchera, bleeding heart, astilbe, ferns, epimedium lamium, vinca, and lots more. Google ‘perennials for shade’ and you’ll see lists galore. Before you plant under those mulberry trees though, you’ll want to improve the soil’s ability to absorb and hold moisture. This means blending peat moss into the existing soil at a 50-50 ratio. If you can blend the peat moss into the soil to a depth of 8″ to 12″ that would be ideal. Yes, that is a lot of peat moss but it will benefit your new shade garden for years to come. The you can start hunting for shade perennials to add to your new shade garden. Make sure to add bone meal into your planting hole to provide slow release phosphorus to help get the plants get established. Bone meal will last in the soil for several years but must be placed where the roots of the plant will grow into and use it. Bone meal sprinkled on the surface does no good. In spite of all the soil building you’ve done, it will still be necessary to water your shade garden a little extra since those mulberry roots are still down there robbing water from your shade garden. Oozing soaker hoses work great form since they soak the soil slowly while keeping the leaves dry and healthy. Thanks for thinking of Hewitts, Peter Bowden
I currently work in an office with no windows and I am looking to have plants there. Can you tell me what plants I can get for this situation, any suggestions on how I can have plants is welcome, I was also considering a solar lamp (because I really want a gardenia bush there.
It sounds to me as though this will be a very difficult environment to grow any plants. There ARE some plants that do well in low light but no light??? not really. The best solution will be to place so gro-lights so that they shine down onto the area where your plants will be. Remember, those gro-lights might seem bright to you but they still will only put out a fraction of the light that even a bright window will provide. Keep those grow lights only a few inches above the plants…a gro-light several feet from a plant provides little energy. I’d put a timer on your grow lights so they’ll provide for the plants even when you are off for the weekend or vacation. Even with added light, you’ll want to stick with low light plants. For upright plants you should consider: . . Aglaonema aka Chinese Evergreen. it is a graceful plant with sword-shaped leaves with silvery highlights. Spathiphyllum aka Peace Lily. Similar in stature to Aglaonema the Peace lily has dark green leaves and puts out an interesting white flower once in a while. . . Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’ aka Corn Plant. Not really a corn plant but a tropical plant that reminds folks of a corn plant. It is often found in larger sizes as a accent plant in offices. For hanging plants you’ll want to check out Pothos and the Heart Leafed Philodendron. Both these plants have heart-shaped leaved but those of the Pothos are speckled with yellow. There are a few others but these are the ‘old reliables’ and are commonly available. . . The biggest problem houseplants have is with their caregiver’s overwatering. Remember, low light plants use very little water. In most cases they’ll only need to be watered anywhere from once a week to once a month. Always check the soil by poking your finger into the soil a couple of inches before you water. If you even think it feels moist wait a few more days and check again. Never leave plants standing in water for more than a few minutes or they will drown. Drowned roots are dead forever and the leaves of the plant will whither in a few days to a few weeks after the roots have been drowned. It is actually better to let the plant get a little limp or wilty before you water to avoid overwatering. Likewise low light houseplants require very little food. I would suggest not feeding at all from November through March and then only light, quarter strength feeding every fourth watering from April through October.
The soil under my pines is very “rroty” and undiggable. Hostas thrive, but the roses don’t flower, the phlox and mock orrange have died. Can I add soil (2-3 inches) in those spots whre roots are not showing above ground in order to plant more shade-loving perennials? This is how the plot was found when we moved in. thanks!
Thanks for the question. I’m not surprised that the hosta are the only plant doing well under the pines. Roses, mockorange and phlox all need as much direct as possible to thrive and flower…10 hours of DIRECT SUN…not just a bright location. I find that people tend to overestimate the amount of sun they are getting (wishful thinking I guess.The other problem is that, under evergreen like pines, the soil becomes acidic more quickly than out in the open part of the yard. To correct that, you’ll need to check the ph of the soil with a ph test kit (very easy) and apply the amount of lime that the test indicates you need. Yes, you can add some soil to the area but make sure you don’t pile the soil up against the trunk of the pines since that can harm them. Finally, make sure that you choose plants that can thrive in shade. Hostas of course, ferns, huechera, tiarella, myrtle, hecherella, lamium and ladies mantle are a few that pop to mind. Do a search for ‘shade plants”‘ and you’ll find lots more suggestions…just make sure they are hardy for our zone, zone 5. Naturally, once spring arrives, the folks at Hewitt’s can help you pick out the right plants as well. Have fun! Peter Bowden
we have kept the decorative sweet vine tubers from last year,I have one in water now –with no roots forming??? Also is it easy to raise real potatoes??
I have saved those tubers as well and am going to plant them right outside in the ground in mid May. From what I gather you can get the roots started in water but folks report varying success with that. Yes, potatoes are very easy to grow. Plant the seed potatoes in early May in shallow trenches and continue to mound soil up around the plants as they grow all summer. By fall you will have mounds instead of the trenches you started with. After frost kills the leaves, dig up your buried treasure. You usually get 5 lbs. of potatoes for every pound you planted.
We wanted to put some vibrant color flowers in our front yard )perferably to stay in their pots) and put some red mulch around with a water fountain to make it look neat and inviting. We just don’t know what type of flowers to purchase that will stay with little maintenance. Any suggestions?
You need to plant annuals every year but they flower all summer and do fine in pots if enough water is provided. Assuming it is a sunny area then there are lots of choices. Geraniums, Ivy geraniums, vinca vine, spike plants, marigolds are just a few durable low-maintenance annuals that pop to mind. There are many more choices. Look at the tags and seek out plants for sun. Naturally you can ask the folks at Hewitt’s to make suggestions based on what is in the greenhouse at the time you visit.
what can i use or do to kill the grass growing up between my tulips in my tulip garden without harming the flowers themselves?
The only solution is to pull the grass our by hand. Any spray that will kill the grass will kill the tulips as well. After that you can use a weed preventer like Preen or Corn Gluten to keep new seeds from germinating
My pachysandra are doing horribly this year. The beds are dying. What could be causing this. I read online about a blight that can infect them. What do I do? The beds are about 15 years old.
It is difficult from your description to tell if you have the blight. Here’s a link so you can see if you symptoms match up. http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/FactSheets/leafblight/pachleafblight.htm This was a difficult winter for pachysandra…I’ve heard others with similar problems. The heavy snow cover flattened pachy’s evergreen leaves. Compacted like this pachy will be more susceptible to disease. I’d get in there and rake and rough up the beds as well as removing any bad leaves. I’d go so far as to thin out the bed by ripping out some of the older looking plants. It would be a good idea to lightly sprinkle some plant food over the bed as well. Healthy, well fed plants can ward off disease better than weak anemic plants. I’d use something gentle like Espoma’s Holly-Tone. Lightly broadcast the food and then water it in to get any of the food off the leaves and into the soil. If the problem continues, snip off a coup[le of leaves and bring them to Hewitt’s so they can identify the problem and suggest the exact solution for it.
i have squash seedlings about 3″to 4″ high.they are covered with these little bugs that look like ground black pepper on them. could you tell me what hey are and are they harmful and if they are, how do i get rid of them?
From your description it sounds like you have some black aphids although, without a picture I’m just making an educated guess. Aphids are easily killed with insecticidal soap. Here’s a link that might help you figure out exactly what you have. http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/veg_fruit/hgic2207.html
I just put my herb garden in on Sunday. In the last three days, ants have taken up residence in the garden…lots of them. Will this be a problem?? If not, I’d rather leave them alone. But if they are going to eat my herbs or if their tunneling is going to cause problems for the roots/new seedlings then can you suggest a good way to get rid of them? Thanks!
Chances are the ants won’t cause a problem. I’d suggest dusting the soil with diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth is the ultra sharp (on a microscopinc level) skeletons of sea creatures. It is a harmless powder to us but ants running through it will be sliced and die. This will discourage them without the use of a chemical among your herbs. Peter Bowden
Here’s a link to a blog post all about the impatien disease that is making it impossible to grow them. The are working on resistant varieties but it will be a few years before they are available. Best to look for a substitute in the meantime.
Any suggestions for flowers in a small container graden which is on the street – State Street – and subject to unwanted attention ?
I’m not sure what you’re asking exactly but wave petunias, geraniums, vinca vine, salvia would be good choices…there are many others though.
With the very warm weather in November, many of my perennial plants began to send up new growth even after all the leaves had previously fallen. Some of these plants were roses, hydrangeas and iris. Will this have a negative impact on next year’s growth and flowering? Thanks, Diane
They should be fine. If they produce flowerbuds that then freeze, you may lose flowers that would appear in spring but the plant will survive. To help them stay cooler you might consider raking leaves onto the beds to keep the sun from warming the soil. We had this problem (even worse) during the winter od 2011-12. HERE’S a link to a blog post I wrote then that addresses the issue.
I got a puppy this past winter. If she eats some annual flowers, what non-toxic ones can I plant? I want to plant only ones that won’t hurt her. I have lots of shade and I usually plant begonias and impatiens. Snapdragons, and a geranium mixed in. Are they ok? I want to train her not to eat them, but I know it will be a year or so for that to really sink in.
Geraniums and the roots of begonias are poisonous for puppies so they’re out. Impatiens, Snapdragons are OK.
Here’s a site you might find helpful for planning a pet safe garden.
hello, I was trying to find celery root or celeriac to transplant in garden(not celery)and am having a hard time finding it.do you know where I can get this item.thank you for responding
Sorry, I do not. You might need to start them from seed indoors yourself in future seasons.
I just planted some clematis and under it I put that black landscaping paper and put alot of mulch on top,should I remove the paper and mulch and just rock it ,I planted them 5 or 6 wks ago,will they get the proper water and drainage with this paper and mulch ,I was told by someone that the paper wasn’t good need your opinion pls
Everything you did was fine….just make sure you haven’t piled mulch up against the stem of the vine…brush it away form the stem where it enters the soil until you see the original soil. Mulch is a good thin around clematic since the prefer sun on the leaves but cool soil below.
It is possible to grow roses from cuttings. HERE’S a link to a good article on doing that. You can try it but it is liable to be more trouble than it is worth.
Best paint to use on “top choice white fur” boards to preserve the wood for vegetable garden? Thank you.
It looks like Eco Wood Treatment would be the way to go.
Yes, but do it right away before it grows any more. Keep it well watered after the move.
when can you plant new iris rhizomes that have been purchased. I think when you are dividing those that you already have in your yard you do that after they have bloomed. I would like to add some more colors and wonder when to purchase them to add more.
Plant new iris rhizomes as soon as possible. Yes, divide your established irises after flowering. More on that HERE.
During the winter, we don’t want to feed our mandevilla since the days are so short. Once summer arrives and they are growing quickly, they’ll need to be fed every 2-3 weeks with a high phosphorus, soluble plant food like Jack’s Blossom Booster (10-30-20). We also don’t want to keep the plant soggy wet all the time, just lightly moist. Always check to see if the soil is moist before watering. Poke your finger a couple of inches into the soil before watering. if the soil feels damp, wait a couple of days and check again. It is better to underwater a bit that overwater…plants drown very quickly.
hi peter, I started planting my vegetable garden yesterday and noticed a lot of grubs in the soil.what can I use to get rid of them without harming my plants and seeds?thank you barry
Honestly, I wouldn’t bother with them. By the time your vegetables are growing, those grubs will be pupating and emerging as adult insects (Jap. beetles, June Bugs etc.). That is a whole different issue. A few grubs found in you vegetable garden or flower bed doesn’t warrant treatment. Jap. Beetles are more of a problem for the lawn…not so much the flower or vegetable garden.
No, probably something to shop online for. Jamaican Thyme isn’t hardy here in zone 5 so it would have to grown in pots and brought inside over winter.
I have a hydrangea that was planted and flowered a bit and the moved to the front of my house at the appropriate time. I believe that it is dead because it looks like straw and nothing has happened since it was moved. I am all for digging it up and planting new ones, but my husband thinks it will revive somehow. Any ideas? Also, my husband wants to plant a small veg garden and we have an area all set up. It doesn’t get a whole lot of sun. What will grow best?
I have a hydrangea that was planted and flowered a bit and the moved to the front of my house at the appropriate time. I believe that it is dead because it looks like straw and nothing has happened since it was moved. I am all for digging it up and planting new ones, but my husband thinks it will revive somehow.
5/22 If you don’t see any signs of growth from the ground in the next couple of weeks then you can assume it is dead.
Any ideas? Also, my husband wants to plant a small veg garden and we have an area all set up. It doesn’t get a whole lot of sun. What will grow best
The best bets in a shady vegetable garden will leafy greens like lettuce, spinach and Swiss chard. Green beans and peas would also do OK. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and the large fruiting tropical veggies will struggle to produce much fruit though they will grow in shade. Most veggies really need 8 hours of direct sun per day to thrive.
I have a few questions… How do I beat red sorrel in my flower beds? I’ve pulled and pulled, gently getting the trailing roots and sifting them out, but it still comes back! I tried adding lime because I read they liked acid soil so I figured if I changed the ph. maybe that would work….. no luck. I tried mulching.. thickly… it still comes… At least with the mulch, it is easier to get out. It is makes me nuts! What can I do? It is now invading my husband’s strawberry beds too. Now we’re both going crazy in our red sorrel battle!My Gramps gave me a shoot from beneath Grandma’s white lilac. It bloomed this year for the first time but it is purple???? How did that happen!? Thank you!Katy
I have a few questions… How do I beat red sorrel in my flower beds? I’ve pulled and pulled, gently getting the trailing roots and sifting them out, but it still comes back! I tried adding lime because I read they liked acid soil so I figured if I changed the ph. maybe that would work….. no luck. I tried mulching.. thickly… it still comes… At least with the mulch, it is easier to get out. It is makes me nuts! What can I do? It is now invading my husband’s strawberry beds too. Now we’re both going crazy in our red sorrel battle!
Mulch with a barrier of cardboard or brown paper underneath will smother weeds. Lay cardboard on the ground covering the weeds and covet that with 3″ of bark mulch. In flowerbeds you can cut up the brown leaf bags to fit around your plants to cover the soil and weeds and then cover the paper with 3″ of mulch. These barriers last long enough to smother and kill the weeds but then decay adding organic matter to the soil. HERE’S a blog post about using cardboard to create a bed. That post was from 2011 and the bed I created is still weed free. Make sure to over lap the cardboard several inches at least so the weed can’t find a way through. There is no spray that you can use on the sorrel that won’t kill you garden plants as well. There will always be some to pull that come up right near your plants but the paper and cardboard method can at least keep the areas in between weeds free.
The white lilac you took the shoot from was grafted. The white flowering branches were grafted to a hardier purple root stock so any suckers coming from that root stock are going to be purple as well.
what flowering plants do well in flower box type things in partial shade / partial sun in and around schenectady, ny?
Lobelia, New Guinea Impatiens, fuchsia, tuberous and wax begonias, coleus for colorful leaves, ageratum, heliotrope, browelia …there are many more. The little tags that are in the plants at the garden center will tell you which ones will grow best in sun/part shade.
Weve been trying to plant a garden for 3 yrs now..and have too much clay in soil..we sdded peat to lighten it up..any other suggestions?
The key to breaking up your clay soil is going to be the addition of organic matter in the form of dehydrated manure (cow or horse) and even sandy loam (we sell bags of ‘topsoil’ which is sandy loam). Also, the addition of Espoma Bio-tone will provide nutrients but, more important. microbes and fungi that will help digest the organic matter and convert it into loamy soil over time. HERE’S a link to more on Bio-tone. You’ll need to turn or rototill the organic matter into the soil to a depth of 8″ or so to break up the clay and blend it with the organic matter and Bio-tone.
The addition of organic matter is an ongoing process. The best soil additive will be your own homemade compost.
We are Seniors who need to have help with weeding and mulching, is there someone you could recommend? Reply to email@example.com
Possibly, depending on where you live. Check your email.
My ground ivy is strategically located to cover a berm. It was very healthy and suddenly it began to die. The leaves turned brown, dried out. It spread from a central spot and moved outward. I thought it might be a fungus, so I tried a fungicide which just made it worse. What happened?
Very hard to tell without seeing it…what do you mean by “ground ivy?…that could be any number of things. It may be a fungal disease but it could also be drowning from overly aggressive use of a sprinkling system that runs every day or every other day. Best thing to do is bring a sample to the garden center and let us see what it is.
My rose bush has holes all in the leaves with white spots all over. Some of the stems has white cotton looking stuff popped around. Is this a bug or some sort of disease eating away. Also the rose buds are dried and dead. It has always bloomed well until now.
Yikes, sounds like a mess. You have a couple of things going on. The white spots on the leaves are probably Powdery Mildew, a fungal disease that occurs during humid weather. If you are spray watering your roses, stop. Every time you wet the leaves, you are inviting Powdery Mildew, Black Spot and other fungal diseases that can afflict roses. Water the soil below the plants (not just your roses but all you landscape plants, flowers and vegetables) More on that HERE.
Now that the disease is established, you’ll need to treat it with a strong fungicide like Infuse following the directions on the label. You can find Infuse at Hewitts.
Your “cotton liking stuff” is a soft scale insect. It is sucking nutrients from the rose. Between that and the mildew, the rose is so weak that it is aboprting the flowerbuds in a n effort to conserve enough energy to simply survive. To kill the scale, you’ll need to spray with Bonide Rose Rx following the direction s on the label…it will take multiple spraying to get the scale under control.
In the future, you should consider spraying with Rose RX earlier in the season before the pests show up to prevent these issues. Above all, DON’T spray water your plants.
Some of the leaves at the base of my clematis are turning yellow or have yellow/rust spots on them. Any suggestions?Thanks!
It sounds like you have a fungal disease like leaf spot. Start spraying with Bonide fungonil right away asnd follow the spraying schedule on the product’s label.
To avoid fungal diseases, NEVER spray your plants with water. When you need to water, direct the water onto the soil below to water the roots while keeping the leaves of your plants (not just the clematis) as dry as possible. With the hot, humid weather and intermittent heavy rain we’re getting, we’re seeing a lot of fungal diseases cropping up. No need to add to the problem by spray watering.
We only stock them in 2 cu. ft. bags and they are both $29.99 for 2 cu.ft.
We can order you 4 cu.ft. bags and they would be $39.99 for either
We recently bought a Knockout rose from Hewitts. The plant, leaves, etc are healthy. The problem is the blooms. Many buds form but then turn brown and never open to flowers. Is there a cure for this?Ron
It sounds like your rose has picked up botrytis. This is a fungal disease and our damp humid season is making fungal diseases a real problem this year. The first method of control is to make sure you’re pruning away seed pods that form after they finish flowering. Also remove any flowers that are yellow or spotted. The buds that are rotting before opening should also be removed. Don’t let the material you remove fall to the ground but bag it up and put it in the garbage.
Make sure that, when you water the roses, you don’t spray the foliage with water. Use a watering wand to direct that water to the soil below the plant. Wet foliage is the perfect place for fungal diseases to take hold. We can’t do anything about the rain but we shouldn’t add to the problem by spray watering. More on that HERE. Always check the soil before watering…if it is already wet, don’t water and check again in a couple of days.
You should start spraying the roses with Bonide Rose Rx . right away. This is a neen oil spray that can control insects, mites and fungal disease and is organic. Read and follow the directions on the label. It would be wise in future years to start spraying earlier in the season before the disease takes hold.
Hello Peter-Missed your discussion on Hibiscus today; I have two purchased this year and one is lovely the other losing m)ost leaves, but still flowering somewhat. They are planted in large planters (w/holes in bottom for drainage) I put stones in bottom and lots of potting soil. Please advise. Thank you. Dara Martin (firstname.lastname@example.org)
The symptom you described is usually cause by one of two things. The first is overwatering. The soil needs to be lightly moist but not soggy wet all the time. If the soil is always very wet and filled with water, the roots can’t breathe and drown just like we would underwater. Plants need some water to replace what they lose to evaporation but too much and they drown. Also, if you piled dirt up higher on the stem when you re-potted it that will cause the same symptom as drowning (leave turning yellow and falling off). Dirt piled against the bark cuts off the flow of moisture and nutrients from the roots to the branches and leave above. Brush away any soil from the stem until you find the original soil level and let the trunk breathe. Most folks think they are doig the palnt a favor by adding more soil around the stem but the opposite is actually true…it slowly strangles the plant. Hibiscus like to be fed in the summer but not at all once they come inside from Oct.-March. They will also use only a tiny fraction of water once they are brought inside as well.
It sound like you have picked up a case of bacterial leaf spot. With all the rain we’ve been getting, there are lots of diseases cropping up. The disease comes from the soil and gets splashed up into the plant were it takes hold. A layer of brown paper and then straw can prevent this from happening. Also make sure that, when you water, you aren’t compounding the problem by spray watering. More on that HERE At this point all you can do is trim away the affected leaves and flower spikes of course and hope the dry weather lets the disease subside.
Spinosad is an organic spray that will knock them out quickly. HERE’S a link to the version we sell at Hewitt’s.
HiI have two stargazer lilies. One is doing well the others leaves are a lighter color green almost yellow at top and pods are a yellow with some brown spots appearing on upper leaves and the pods. They have not opened as yet. Any ideas on what this is or how to treat it?
It sounds like you may have a fungal disease called botrytis HERE’S a link that discusses that. During a damp, humid season like the one we’re having, diseases are common. Don’t promote disease by spray watering your gardens. Use a watering wand to direct the water to the soil while keeping the leaves and flowers dry. Wet plants make it easy for diseases to take hold. MORE ON THAT HERE. Now that the disease has takn hold, you’ll need to spray with a fungicide like Bonide Fungonil.
Here in the Albany NY area we are USDA hardiness zone 5. Vista red salvia is only hardy to zone 11. So, if you live in Florida, it will grow all year long but not here in Upstate NY.
I have peonies that need to be spread out. Is it okay to do that now (fall) ordo I need to wait till spring? Thank you
September is the best time for this project HERE’S A LINK to a great tutorial on this.; Bear in mind that peonies don’t like to be moved and may not flower the first year after this is done…even longer if you divide them.
You can remove and replace the top 5″ of soil with sterile potting soil in spring.
What do I use to prepare my plans for the next couple of weeks to bring them indoors. I just watched a show on Channel 6 News but I missed the product that you would bring the plans with could you please advise thank you
HERE’S A LINK to that info in a blog form.
Hi, I have strawberry plants and some of the strawberries near the ground are rotted or don’t grow! Any suggestions on what I can do?Also my tomatoe plants have some type of disease, the branches and leaves turn yellow then brown and die! The plants have tomatoes but not many! What can I do now? What can I do to rid the soil of the disease?THANKS!
You can place straw under the berries to keep them from coming in contact with the soil so they don’t rot. This is so commonly done that that is the reason they are called “strawberries”.
Tomatoes are prone to several diseases. The spores for these diseases general get their start from soil splashing up when rain falls. I use black plastic to cover the soil below the plants and stake them up to keep most of the leaves above the soil. Also, NEVER spray the plants with water…disease love wet leaves so, if you’re spray watering, you are making the situation MUCH worse. More on that HERE. Since these disease can remain in the soil from year to year, you shouldn’t plant your tomatoes in the same place every year. Rotate them around the garden so that they won’t be planted in this spot they are in now until the year after next.
I have crabgrass growing up thru my mountain pinks can you tell me what to use to kill the crabgrass and not my plant?
You’ll need to pull the crabgrass out by hand. Crabgrass comes from seed every spring so, if you use a “seedling preventer” on the area in the spring before it has sprouted, you can avoid this problem in the future. Preen and Corn Gluten are products that prevent seeds from sprouting. At this point, there is no spray that will kill just the crabgrass.
It is pretty hard to tell from just a description. It might be something as simple as a spider which isn’t a problem…just brush the web away. If it is a denser web then it might be spider mites which can for a web-like structure on the stems. In that case, spray the plants with Bonide Bon-Neem…an organic spray that is effective against spider mites. If you can bring a sample in a baggie or some clear pictures of the problem to the gsrden center, they can ID it.
Pinkish-white worms have invaded the corms of my irises. What are they and how do I get rid of them? I’ve cleaned up the plants by cutting off the damaged parts then putting them in water (worms come to the top) before replanting but how do I prevent them from invading again??
It sounds like iris borers Here’s a link that discusses control methods.
last year I planted a forever & ever white out hydrangea. This year when the flowers bloomed after a couple of days all the petals turned brown on half of each petal. Could you please help me These are beautiful flowers
This was probably caused but the rainy summer we were having until recently. Also, spraying the plant with water will cause this same problem. Make sure that, when you water, you direct the water to the soil below the plant but keep the plant dry. If you have a sprinkler system that wets the landscape plants frequently, then this is the culprit.
I haven’t seen that particular variety among the several we have available.
my black eyed susans have developed a fungus and am wondering what to spray on them. The foliage is a powdery white and the heads are dying.
The first this to do to prevent this is to avoid spraying your plants with water. When they need watering direct the water to the soil with watering wands or soaker hoses to soak the soil while keeping the leaves. stems and flowers dry. HERE’S A LINK to the dangers of spray watering.
It sounds like you have picked up powdery mildew, a fungal disease. You can spray it with Fung-o-nil a garden fungicide. The better approach would be to start spraying in spring with the fungicide to prevent the disease. They will come up next spring just fine in spite of the damage the mildew has cause this year.
I have seen the seeds on the seed racks but I’d call ahead to confirm since the seed racks are getting pretty picked over at this point. http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7309-red-veined-sorrel.aspx
This year all of my lilies not day lilies were eaten up by some kind of beetle with reddish wings. I srayed insect killer on them but it seem like it didn’t work please help
You have now been introduced to Scarlet Lily Beetles. You need to start spraying as soon as you see the first beetle arrive. Spray with Bonide Bon-Neem every few days for 3 weeks as soon as you see the first one. The fist beetles to arrive send out a scent that lures in MANY more.
Bonide Repels-All. This hose end spray version makes it easy to spray the flowerbeds and won’t harm the plants. It lasts a month or so but rain may make more frequent applications necessary. Read and follow the direstion on the label.
Hummingbirds love almost all flowers so yes, we have them. Hummingbird are attracted to bright colors, red especially. Colorful objects in the yard…like a red gazing globe will attract them as will the sound of splashing water. Once in the yard, it is nice if they find nectar producing flowers like columbine or hostas. Of course a hummingbird feeder will keep them coming back when the flowers are between blooms. Here’s a site with a great list of plants for you.
Like most vegetables, eggplants should be planted in the sunniest place possible. They should be planted when the soil is nice and warm…around the 3rd week in May. Yes, we sell several varieties of eggplant and they will be available when it is time to put them in the ground.
Spray the zinnias and the surrounding area with Bonide Repels All . Re-apply after heavy rain.
Could you tell me what I can put in my vegetable garden to kill weeds, and is safe for the vegetables.
There are no sprays to kill weeds among vegetab le plants. The best method is to cover the soil with paper or cardboard and cover that with straw to suppress the weeds. Once you weed an area, you can apply corn gluten to the area to prevent any seeds from sprouting but it can’t stop weeds that are coming up from an already established root system .
I have a large yard (about 3 acres) that includes several flower gardens and a large vegetable garden. I am infested with snails and slugs….thousands of them. Can you recommend a cost efficient method to get rid of them? I cant pay $15 for a small container of Sluggo. I need to do something more on the commercial level.
You’ll just have to look for a source for larger quantities of iron phosphate. Remember though that a little goes a long way. You place it in small piles in the worst infested areas and they are drawn to it. If you start early in the season, you can prevent the population explosion that happen now when we have a wet summer.
I have a very boggy corner in my garden. What can I plant there ?It is on the corner of my leach field so nothing with invasive roots. I would like to use perennials but I have no preference as to plants, bushes, grasses etc. At the moment it is just a thistle patch. Thank you.
Here’s a list of perennials for damp areas pulled from this link:
This is just a list of the perennials…if you are interested in shrubs as well, click the link above for the full list. I’d avoid anything larger than the perennials though to protect you leach field
Ferns (Botanical Name – Common Name)
- Athyrium filix-femina – Lady Fern
- Athyrium nipponicum – Painted Fern
- Cyrtomium falcatum – Holly Fern
- Dryopteris erythrosora – Autumn Fern
- Dryopteris filix-mas – Male Fern
- Matteuccia pennsylvanica – Ostrich Fern
- Onoclea sensibilis – Sensitive Fern
- Osmunda cinnamonea – Cinnamon Fern
- *Osmunda regalis – Royal Fern
- Thelypteris palustris – Marsh Fern
Ornamental Grasses (Botanical Name – Common Name)
- *Arundo donax – Giant Reed
- *Carex species – Sedges
- Chasmanthium latifolium – Northern Sea Oats
- Schizachyrium scoparium – Little Bluestem
- Sorghastrum nutans – Indian Grass
- Spartina pectinata – Cordgrass
Perennials & Bulbs (Botanical Name – Common Name)
- *Acorus calamus – Sweet Flag
- *Acorus gramineus – Dwarf Sweet Flag
- *Alocasia macrorrhiza – Giant Alocasia
- Arisaema triphyllum – Jack-in-the-Pulpit
- *Asclepias incarnata – Swamp Milkweed
- Aspidistra elatior – Cast Iron Plant
- Aster novae-angliae – New England Aster
- Astilbe x arendsii – Astilbe
- *Canna species – Canna
- Chelone species – Turtlehead
- Cimicifuga species – Bugbane
- *Colocasia esculenta – Elephants Ear
- Convallaria majalis – Lily Of The Valley
- *Crinum americanum – Swamp Lily
- Crinum species – Crinum
- Eupatorium purpureum – Joe-Pye Weed
- *Filipendula species – Meadow Sweet
- Galium odoratum – Sweet Woodruff
- Hedychium species – Ginger Lily
- *Helianthus angustifolius – Swamp Sunflower
- Hemerocallis hybrids and species – Daylily
- *Hibiscus coccineus – Scarlet Swamp Hibiscus
- Hibiscus species – Rose Mallow
- Houttuynia cordata – Houttuynia
- *Hymenocallis – Spider Lily
- *Iris ensata – Japanese Iris
- *Iris hybrids – Louisiana Iris
- *Iris laevigata – Rabbitear Iris
- *Iris pseudacorus – Yellow Flag
- Iris sibirica – Siberian Iris
- *Iris virginica – Southern Blue Flag
- *Leucojum aestivum – Summer Snowflake
- Ligularia species – Ligularia
- *Lobelia cardinalis – Cardinal Flower
- *Lobelia siphilitica – Blue Cardinal Flower
- *Lysimachia clethroides – Gooseneck Loosestrife
- *Lysimachia punctata – Yellow Loosestrife
- Malvaviscus arboreus – Turks Cap
- Mentha species – Mints
- Mertensia virginica – Virginia Bluebell
- Monarda species – Bee Balm
- Myosotis scorpioides – Forget-Me-Not
- Physostegia virginiana – Obedient Plant
- *Rhexia virginica – Meadow Beauty
- Smilacina racemosa – False Solomon’s Seal
- Tiarella cordifolia – Foam Flower
- Tradescantia virginiana – Spiderwort
- Tricyrtis formosana – Toad Lily
- Vernonia noveboracensis – Ironweed
- *Xanthosoma atrovirens – Taro
- *Zantedeschia aethopica – Calla Lily
- Zephyranthes atamasca – Atamasco Lily
- Zephyranthes candida – Rain Lily
I have a perennial sun flower that had red spider mites last year. I had to cut the plants back mid summer, I am noticing they are starting to come back this year again. How can I get rid of them, the soapy water didn’t seem to help last year. Thanks in advance
Just plain soapy water is not going to kill spider mites. Even insecticidal soap doesn’t work well against them. Neem oil is what I would suggest. We sell it as a product called “Bon Neem” which is a combination of pyrethrin and neem oil. You’ll need to thoroughly drench the plants when spraying and spray once a week for 3 weeks to insure control. Pay particular attention to the undersides of the leaves when spraying.
If it is growing among other plants then weed killer spray can’t be used. Pull as much as you can and then cover the area with cardboard or a couple of layers of brown paper (leaf bags cut open). Cover that with cedar mulch of the mulch of your preference. In the flowerbeds, I use cedar mulch…in the vegetable garden I use straw to cover the paper. The paper cut the plants under it off from sunlight and they die.
Only in the 3.8 Cu Ft. compressed bale. $44.99
Espoma Bio-Tone or any of the Espoma “Tone” foods. HERE’S a link to more about them.
One of the best way to control root maggots of any kind is to mix diatomaceous earth into the soil where the turnips will be growing. DE will slice and shred the maggots or any insect and they die from dehydration.
Around edibles, the one to use is Hot pepper wax repellent…here’s a link to the product. http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=127
We don’t. Most of our supplies do not either but, dealing with multiple suppliers, there is no way I can realistically 100% guarantee that, at some point earlier in time, all our plants were never treated with them.
In the fall I put tulip bulbs in the freezer. I would like to plant in a pot for Easter, but how should I do it.
Just plant them in a shallow pot with the pointy side up. The bulbs want to be just below the surface of the soil with the tips just poking out. Water thoroughly and keep in a warm place until they sprout and give them the sunniest windowsill you have. The bad news is that it is too late to do this (3/12) and have them in flower for Easter…they’ll flower a week or two later. Also…no need to freeze the bulbs…chilling them in the regular part of the refrigerator for 8 weeks will work fine.
Hi I decided to plant all my own flowers for my wedding. I was wondering what flowers I should choose that are pink and purple and would be harvestable around the 22nd of August that would be good to put in my bouquets and centerpieces. Also what time I should start planting. Thank you
Cosmos, snapdragons, cleome and there are other annuals to choose from. You’ll need to shop for and plant them right away though. Honestly, plan on buying some flowers to supplement what you grow.
is there such a plant called an “ellen rosebush” a friend of mine rembered a rose bush of that name probably 30 years ago.
There is: HERE’S a link to more about it. We do not stock it though.
I have a half wine barrel in a very shady spot in my front yard, looking for suggestions on what type of flowers would like an area such as this. Would love to add some color. Thank youMichelle. H
Options are limited for shade. Wax and tuberous (non-stop) begonias are a good choices. Coleus for colorful foliage (pick off the boring flowers for better results). Caladium can tolerate shade. Trailing lobelia is also an option. Torenia aka wishbone flower is another possibility.
my hydrangeas do not bloom well got from hewitts, many yrs ago i must not be doing something wrong please help
Without any information to go on, the best I can do is send you to this website…there are different types of hydrangeas and they need different treatment for success. This site will help you figure out what type you have and how to care for it. http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/
This is a classic symptom of wet soil. Back off on the watering and only water when they start to wilt a bit. NEVER spray the plants with water. Just wet the soil where the roots are. More on watering HERE.
Aged manure or composted manure is the beast. Peat moss has no nutritional value it is use for moisture retention. You can mix it 50%-50% with the original soil. While your doing this, you should also add Espoma Bio-Tone to jump start the soil with organic nutrients, beneficial soil microbes and fungi.
What do I do with a large flower bed that has been mulched with seeds in it,? weeds are growing from the mulch.
Pull the weeds.
I have never gardened before. My daughter picked up some rose seeds and I have no idea how to start the process. Please help
Most roses are grown from cuttings and many are then grafted onto a hardy root stock. I’m not sure growing roses from seed would be a rewarding project for a beginner but HERE’S A LINK to how to go about it.
I want to start a garden where the above ground pool use to be. There is approx. 4″ of sand. Would I have to remove all the sand or mix it up with other soils. What’s best process to get this moving? Any other suggestions to make the garden thrive? thank you.
Keep the sand…good for drainage. You can beef up the soil with compost…we sell composted manure in 1.3 cu. ft. bags (approx. 40 lbs.) that would be prefect for this. Cove the area with 4″ of the compost then blend it into the sand. I’d also add some Espoma Bio-Tone organic food into the soil at the time you’re turning it. This will add organic nutrients as well as beneficial soil microbes to jump start the soil.
How do I winterize a Knockout Rose Tree planted in the ground The Graft is about 36 inches high this is the first winter in zone 5will it die. if not wrapped up?
You are right to think that tree roses need a little extra care to come through winter. Here’s a link to fill you in on what needs to be done
We lost several perennials this year of different types. Some Daisy’s, about 4 rose bushes, and a few others that I don’t recall what they are called. We’ve had these for several years, but for some reason, several did not come back this year.Could this be the odd winter weather we had where spring like temperatures caused some plants to started growing in winter, then re-froze?I’m wondering if you have heard of this from other people locally?Thank you.
You nailed it…the warm fall was nice for us but rough on hardy plants. Then late march featured a warm up which brought already advanced plants out of what short dormancy they had just in time to succumb to four unusually cold nights April 3rd – 6 with temps of 24°, 18°, 14° and 17°. This not only did severe damage to the apple crop but to many landscape plants from arborvitae to perennials. No, you are not alone.
had a hanging pansey plant (annual) can seeds blow off and land in rocks and grow i have rocks all around the house and now this spring panseys started growing in the rocks i live in minnesota with hard cold winters and cold spring i throw my hanging plants at the end of the season
Yes pansies will drop seed and come up in other places. They cross breed too so you never know what you’ll get.
I bought a Hardy Aster last year and planted right away. It grew fine through the late fall however, I do not see any growth at all yet. The mums are already growing leaves so I thought the Asters would have a similar growing season? Thanks!!
I’m sure your aster will show up. They tend to lay low until a few weeks before their flowering period (late summer/early fall) and then rise up above the surrounding plants and then flowers. Soon you should see it growing down low waiting for its season.
if I planted some cherry tomato plants in the beginning of June, will I have tomatoes before the end of july, w/ all the rain we’ve had in Berkshire county, MA?
Yes. We’re all struggling with the same lack of sun, heat and too much wetness. Next week looks like a warm up. To help them along, don’t water unless they absolutely need it since the cold water from the hose will chill the soil and, of course, NEVER spray water…spraying the leaves and stems with water…cold water from the hose, shocks the plants and it takes a few days for them to recover…days we can’t afford in this already dim and wet growing season.
for the past 2 years I have been getting snail like slugs on the leaves of my plants. Unlike the slugs , these pests are on the plants all the time. what can I use to kill them?
Slug Magic is an organic slug bait that will knock them out quickly.
Hi Peter. I had a ‘worm’ on one of my rosebuds this am and wondered if you would know what it is. It was yellowish green, thin as a thread and about 3 inches long. Any ideas?
It sounds like a nematode. It was probably driven from the soil by the soaking rain.
I don’t know of any mulch that is treated with chemicals. Most of the mulches we sell are not dyed. The only ones that are dyed are the black, red and brown dyed cedar mulch. My favorite is the natural cedar mulch…we also have natural pine and other mulches to choose from.
Hi Peter I need your help! I have red lily beetles, I have sprayed Spectracide® Triazicide® on the lilies and dirt. I thought it got rid of them but know after a week they are back. What would you recommend? Thank you!!! Dina
I use Bonide Bon-Neem against the lily beetles. It is a combination of Pyrethrin and neem oil…both strong contact killers. There is no safe spray that will get rid of them forever. You’ll need to start spraying when you see the first sign of them and then every few days. It is important to kill the first ones as soon as you notice since they give off a scent that attracts more to the area. They will eventually subside as their breeding season ends.
I’ve seen reports of many stores getting their plants from sources that use the pesticide neonicotinoids. Does Hewitt’s sell such plants?
Dealing with multiple suppliers for nursery stock, perennials and other plants, there is no way I could honestly say that none were ever treated with neonicotinoids at some point.
You may find this article helpful as well.
My zinnia plants are beginning to show a white powdery mildew on them. Is there any way to prevent the spread of this?
A spray of garden sulfur or Bonide Fungonil will prevent the spread of the disease.
I bought bulbs 3 weeks ago at Hewitt’s—still not planted. Is it too late ?The ground is definitely frozen.
If we get a warm spell and the ground thaws get them in. You could even dig through the thin frozen layer to the earth below and plant them…cold won’t hurt them. If you can’t get them in, store them in a very cold place like the ‘fridge or an unheated garage until spring and plant them then. They need at least 8 weeks of cold storage (or spending the winter in the ground) to get them to flower in spring. If you store them in a warm area, they won’t grow…they need a period of cold before spring.
To Mr. Peter Bowden, please send me. Text on your iPhone to me @ 518-928-3840 Liz Lis I need help with a “fungus” on my tomatoe & cucumbers but need your help.I wish to send photos
Please send your images to email@example.com
In the winter, I have some kind of animal underground tunneling in the dirt of my garden. It eats my hostas, siberian iris, clematis, and some of my roses, just to name a few. I am not sure what they are because we live by a lake and so have lots of chipmunks, squirells, and some mice. How do I keep my plants safe?
Chipmunks are the likely culprit. Mole Max Mole Repellent repels all burrowing rodents. Spreading the granules or spraying the liquid and watering it in as per the directions will drive them out of the beds.
Our Clifton Park store had a few but call ahead to make sure they are still available. 371-0126
Is there any product to use that will repel squirrels and chipmunks from eating out newly purchased perennials??
Hot Pepper Wax spray can be sprayed right on the plants and no rodent will touch them.
I have grubs in my vegetable planters and raised beds. I won’t use chemicals there as we want to eat the vegetables. What’s the safest way to get rid of them?
I would pluck them out and dispose of them as you find them. A few grubs here and there aren’t a problem in the vegetable garden. By the time the vegetable are growing, they will have matured and emerged as the Japanese Beetle or whatever insect they are destined to become.
Nice service. Thanks. Why is there mold growing in my potted new soil pot? It’s white. John firstname.lastname@example.org
If the plant was outside and then brought in then the spores probably came in with it. Even if not, there are mold spores in the air even in the house that can float in the air and land on the soil. Most plants shouldn’t Be kept so damp that mold can grow so I suspect that you are overwatering. Plants need far less water than most folks believe. If there is a saucer under the pot, it is there only to protect the floor or woodwork…not for any benefit of the plant. NEVER let water stand in the saucer. When you water, any water in the saucer that doesn’t get drawn up into the soil within 5 minutes or so should be dumped. Now that the mold is there stop watering and let the soil dry. Take a pencil and scratch up the surface of the soil to help it dry out. Keep the surface of the soil dry by light watering and pour the water into the saucer below and let it get drawn up from below. And discard any that isn’t. Less is more when it comes to houseplant care. These molds aren’t usually a problem for the plants but the drowning conditions are the real culprit.
Dear Peter, Thank you for your many helpful tips all year long. I have been watching the situation of the Monarch Butterfly and it’s loss of habitat. Since we are part of its migration to Canada, I hope you will talk about planting the Milkweed plant in favorable habitats near our home. As you know, the Monarch needs the under-leaf of the Milkweed plant to secure its chrysalis. I have gotten packets of seeds and I am giving them to friends to add to their home areas for these beautiful butterflies. let me know if you are going to use this idea in one of your segments so I can encourage friends to watch. Thank you. Find more information here and an opportunity for a few free seeds: http://www.saveourmonarchs.org/
Great Idea…I should be able to do a segment on it…I’ll keep you posted.
It could be as simple as them getting too much water with all the rainy weather. Let them dry out for a while and never spray the leaves with water…water the soil below the plants ONLY when needed.
There are also several disease that can attack tomatoes and wet leaves make it easier for them to spread.
Yellow leaves can also be due to a lack of nutrients….scratch some Tomato-Tone food into the soil below the plants right away…you can also use soluble foods for a quick boost as well. Jack’s Classic is the best…Miracle-Gro would be my second choice.
is it necessary to replace potting soil in containers every year or can you just add fertilizer to it
No need to replace it. I’ll remove any root balls from last year’s annuals and add a little new soil as needed and mix a little Espoma Bio-Tone to the soil. I also feed the annual flowers Jack’s Classic Blossom Booster every other week.
We failed to read the directions and sprayed our vegetable gardens with Bayer Advanced Complete Insect killer. Is it now unsafe to eat the produce?
Yes, it is now unsafe to eat the produce. You have applied a systemic insecticide that is absorbed into the plants and so it should not be eaten. In fact, I’d removed the plants to eliminate the possibility that it is eaten by anyone. ALWAYS read the directions before applying any insecticide or herbicide.
We have a hydrangea planted in our front yard that faces north. It has not bloomed in about 2 years. I would like to transplant it to the backyard and was wondering is there a good time to transplant it?
If you want to move it, do it right away. To help you figure out what kind of hydrangea you have and why it might not be flowering, check this website out.
Yes…crabgrass preventer stops seeds from sprouting so daylilies won’t be affected. Preen is essentially crabgrass preventer and is intended for use around flowerbeds.
We don’t have any right now, I’d suggest calling around to some of the other local Garden Centers to see if they do.
I live at the bottom of a hill in an area with clay soil, so our yard is pretty wet in the spring – and it can continue to be wet into the summer depending on how much rain we get. There is a corner of our yard that is downright swampy, and it’s pretty unusable as it sits right now. We would like to make it functional in some way and are considering turning it into a large garden. Are there flowers and plants that will work in a spot like this? Can you recommend a few to try this year? Thank you!
There are few plants that will tolerate extended time in wet soil. There are willows…weeping willow trees, pussywillow and dappled willow shrubs that can deal with the wetness. If you are intent on gardening in this are, you’re going to have to bring in several of inches of soil to raise the are up and improve drainage so there is no standing water.
Our Knockout roses are arriving today but none called “Playboy”. “Playboy” appears to be a floribunda rose, not a knockout. We have a few of the floribunda Playboy roses but only at our E. Greenbush store at Rt 4 and I-90. There are only 5 so get them soon.
I have a relatively large patch of Lamb’s Ear. Every spring I spend quite a bit of time taking the dead leaves from in between the new growth. Is it possible to cut it all back in the fall with out killing it? Also, my daughter’s Mother-in-law would like some of it. She is starting out fresh this spring in a new place. What is the best way to separate it? Can I just dig some of it up and make sure it has enough roots? Thank YouLindae mail: email@example.com
You can dig up a clump to share as long as you do it right away and she’ll have to keep it well watered for awhile. After a couple of good hard freezes in the fall, you could cut you lamb’s eay flowers spikes off near the ground but leave some of the lower leaves.
When is the best time to plant fall bulbs? I think I planted them too early one year, and they started growing about a week after I planted them, so I think it was too warm. Thanks
Anytime from now until the ground freezes. Some bulbs may grow some leaves if we get a warm spell but, without a winter’s chilling, they won’t flower. Getting bulbs in now will give them a chance to grow some roots to anchor themselves and gather some extra energy before winter. More here: http://blog.timesunion.com/gardening/lets-plant-spring-flowers/6467/
Anytime now. HERE’S more on winter protection for our landscape plants.
You can plant hosta up until the ground freezes. An earlier start would be better but they are better of going in the ground than sitting in pots all winter.
what was the name of the insect spray you had on last week, to get your plants ready to come back inside. went to glenville hewitts and they did not know what we were talking about. you had three different ones. thank yu
Here’s a link to all about it.
I planted garlic about 3 weeks ago as I do every year. However, this year it is starting to have shoots coming up. I have mulched it with leaves. Will it survive the winter?
Yes, it will be fine and will stop growing when temperatures get normal again.
I want to add composting worms to my vegetable garden. I don’t want to order them online. Do a year garden stores… say, Hewitts… sell them in any physical stores in the Capital District?
We don’t sell composting worms but a bait shop will have earthworms you can set loose in your gardens. Also, add some Espoma Bio-Tone (which we do sell) to release beneficial hardy soil organisms including mycorrhizal fungi into the soil. This will benefit both the soil and the worms. Of course adding organic matter in the form of compost will feed all these things and supercharge your soil over winter.
Anytime from now until the ground freezes.
I want to grow some garlic this year. what type of fertiz. to I need? I heard to apply nitregon in the spring?
You can add some food to the planting holes and then scratch some more around them when they show signs of life in the spring. A balanced food is best. I’d suggest Espoma Bio-Tone organic food (4-3-3)
What are the best holly bushes varieties to plant in slightly wet, full sun area and when is the best time for the Latham area.
Winterberry Holly is the best for this location. Spring is always the best time to plant but fall can work out if you provide some protection from the drying northwest wind.
I live in California and have just had raised beds built from birch wood. They are filled with soil. Do I need to paint or stain the outside of the boxes? If so what would you recommend? Thank you.
Obviously you need to be very careful with paints and stains around edible plants to make sure it doesn’t get into the food. There are lots of options out there though HERE’S an article all about it and a web search for “eco friendly paints and stains for raised beds” will show you even more options.
I was told i should spray my hibiscus before bringing it in for the winter. What do i spray snd when?
HERE’S A LINK to all about that.
I live in VT and was wondering if I could leave my Tropica Escape Mandevilla out side during the winter if I cover it.
Mandevilla is only hardy to zone 9 (25° to 30°) so, even with covering, it will never survive outside in Vermont over winter. It must be brought in.
Hi,My name is Colin. I am Co-President of the Farnsworth Middle School Organic Garden Club. I would like to teach our members what bad bugs we have to watch out for in our area. I have looked this up, but I just want the bad bugs that are in the Guilderland area.Thanks,Colin Ingraham ( ColinDane10@aol.com )P.S. Would you like to come to one of our meetings? It would be great!
HERE’S a list that covers what most folks have trouble with.
If it is one of the sterile plants then no but if it is a wild cultivar than yes. Here’s a link…look for “Japanese silvergrass” in the list.
Sorry, we do not take pre-orders for perennials.
Whether or not you cut them back depends on what type of hydrangea they are Go HERE for help determining what you have and how to prune it.
You can kill it with a spray of Round-up during the growing season or cover the area with several layers of plastic or old carpeting for a full growing season.
Princess lilies (alstroemeria) are only hardy to zone 8…we are zone 5…much too cold for them to survive winter. In our area, the bulbs will need to be dug out before frost and stored inside for the winter and re-planted each spring.
Purchased a giant amaryllis bulb after seeing you on tv. I had 3 stalks of 4 huge flowers each. I cut off the stalks now they are done flowering. What is next? I think I am supposed to put in the dark for 2 weeks. Do I water before or leave dry? Also do I cut off the foliage before I put in the dark?
HERE’S A LINK to a blog post about amaryllis. At the bottom, you’ll find information on how to care for yours to get it to flower again next year.
We are taking our vegetable garden a little more seriously this year, after several years of pretty successful gardening. We want to venture outside of our normal gardening range, and we want to make sure to buy and grow plants that are successful in our region, and are curious where to buy plants and how/when to plant them. We are planting in Clifton Park, NY. Any direction or suggestions are appreciated, Thank you for your consideration,Natalie & Jason
Naturally, you can get everything you’ll need at Hewitt’s. There are a few plants that you’ll need to but that need a head start. Even if you don’t do seed starting, you can buy the started plants from us. The bulk of your garden will come from seed sown directly into the garden. HERE’S A LINK that can help you get a handle on when to start seeds indoor if you want to experiment with that, and HERE’S A LINK with information on when to direct sow seeds into the garden for different crops. It includes links to the handy “Vegetable Schedule”…you can also pick up your own copy at Hewitts…it is a great resource designed just for our climate here in the Capital Region. There is a second seed sowing season in mid-summer for late crops that mature in the fall…gardening doesn’t end with frost…HERE’S A LINK to that article.
Compost I rotted organic matter (leaves, vegetable kitchen scraps, egg shells, etc) and is used to improve the texture and nutritional value of the soil.
Fertilizer is a combination of nutrients concentrated so that it can be added to the soil to improve the nutritional value of the soil.
Neither is “better” and it is best to use both to improve the soil. I prefer organic fertilizer and strongly suggest its use.
I have an inground pool and am looking for something to plant along fence line for privacy screen> I have considered ornamental grass, or arborvitae. I would like it fact growing up to 7feet, and don’t want to spend a fortune… Right now it can be temporary and I will replant to side fence lines as I can afford other options.thoughts? recommendations?I am in Zone 5 (Waterford NY), the area is full sun
It depends on the sunlight the area gets. If the area gets 7+ housr of sun per day in midsummer that an economical choice would be forsythia. it will flower well before the pool is open so won’t be messy. For a shady area, Clethra would be a good choice. HERE’S more on Clethra and HERE’s more on Forsythia.
Hello Peter. I have three beds of various types of lilies such as asiatic, orientals, stargazers,etc. They are covered currently with cedar mulch for winter protection. The past two years I’ve battled lily beetles like many folks and I’m wondering if it would be better to remove the mulch this spring when the bulbs start to poke through. Also can you recommend an organic deterrent for those little pests.
Lilies don’t really need any winter protection. If the is a couple of inches of mulch, that’s fin but a heavier laer should be reduced in thickness once it thaws out in late March. Scarlet Lily Beetle have become a huge problem. Keep an eye out and, when you see the very first one start spraying once a week with Bon-Neem. Bon-Neem is a combination of an organic contact killer Pyrethrin and Neem Oil which is not only an insect killer but fungicide as well. It is important to kill the beetle at the first sign since the first to arrive will put a scent out into the wind that will attract even more. Spinosad has also been found to be effective against lily beetle if used at the first sign. HERE’S A LINK you might find helpful. We sell both Bon-Neem and Capt’n Jack’s (spinosad) at Hewitts.
I have a 40 yr old Ti plant. Over the past 2 yrs it has grown out of control. Can I cut it back and replant the trimmings?
You can cut it back and it will regrow from the original root system. You can also root the cutting for more new plants… HERE’S a link on how to do that.
Can I start my dahia tuber after I treat with bleach? I have some with light mold should I treat all of them that wintered in the same place? I thought they were dry enough when I put them up in peat moss and newspaper in a box but a few have mold. Also should I plant them as usual or let them dry out after I treat for mold?
I’d avoid treating your tubers with bleach but you might as well try starting them as usual. The mold indicates they are being stored in too-moist and probably too warm conditions. Try dry, sterile potting soil for storage medium. Take them out of storage once a month or so and brush them off with a whisk broom and let them dry on the surface before returning them to their cool storage location. Peat moss is not sterile and may have the mold spores present. Potting soil is sterilized. “Garden Soil” and peat moss are not.
I just bought two cedar elevated garden beds to grow fruits and vegetables this year with my preschool age sons. The problem is, I’m not sure what I’m doing :-) First, what type of soil/fertilizer should I fill them with? I need about 18 cubic feet. Also, when is the time to plant these fruits and veggies (tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, snap peas, etc)? It’s been warm already but should I wait until there is zero chance of frost? Sincerely, A Mom trying to grow a green thumb
You can get “garden soil” in bags from the gardens center. I’d jump start the microbial and nutritional value of the soil by turning in some organic Bio-Tone food. You can do that anytime now. Once that is done, you can start planting HERE’S a link to a blog post about scheduling your crops. Drop by the garden center to get your own copy of the “Vegetable Schedule” to help you time your seed sowing throughout the spring and summer. Other than tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and a few others, most of your crops will be started from seed directly sown into the garden outside starting with peas in a couple of weeks.
Clematis …lots of colors to choose from and they are winter hardy so they return year after year.
PeterI have a beautiful Blushing Bride hydrangea- too bad there are no flowers. I just checked ph and it is very alkaline so I know I have to adjust this. Questions:1. It is placed among other acid loving plants. should I just add sphagnum peat moss or lime or both?? Is the lime/peat mixed into top layer?2. I never cut it back in the fall- yes or no?3. I add Holly Tone in spring around perimeter/driplines but am never sure how much??ThxNancy G
Your Blushing Bride can be pink or blue depending on the ph. Alkaline for Pink, acidic for blue. Adding lime will make it alkaline for pink. Adding sulfur will make the soil more acidic for blue flowers. I’d switch to Flower-Tone instead of Holly-tone for extra phosphorus for more flowering. There is no need to add peat moss since it has no nutritional value and won’t adjust the pH to an noticeable degree. The Flower-tone and sulfur should be turned into the top few inches of soil. HERE’S A LINK that should help you.
We’ll have some coold weather veggies available around mid-April. The rest will be available in early May. Be aware that most vegetables are grown from seeds sown directly in the ground. Stop by Hewitt’s to pick up a “Vegetable Schedule” so you can see which need to be started from transplants and which from seed. HERE’S a link that may help you.
my garden didnt do well last year…we are pruning some nearby trees for more sunlight; but feel that the soil lacks some nutrients….can we have it tested somehow? Thanks…Dorothy
We sell soil test kits if you wish to do it yourself. You can also (for a small fee0 have it tested through the Cornell Cooperative extension. Here’s their website so you can find contact information for your county.
I am reworking the gardens and lawn in my back yard. I want something that is pet safe (dog) so it needs to include the plants as well as the chemicals used. Do you do a seminar on that topic?
Hewitt’s sells plenty of organic and pet friendly products…drop by and ask…they will be happy to show you. I’ll be doing a seminar on Pet and Wildlife Friendly products and techniques on April 16th at 10 AM at our Guilderland (Rt 20) store and again on April 23rd at Noon. As far as plants, I do not do a talk on this but a quick search of the internet yields NUMEROUS RESULTS.
I’ll be putting my house on the market for sale the first week in May. I’d like to add some plants in front of the house that would be somewhat full and possibly blooming by then. Do you have plants or shrubs that would look nice and full early May? The front of my house faces the west.Thanks!
Good timing…there will be lots of flowering shrubs in flower then. There will also be flowering annuals available that will flower all summer long and look great the minute they are planted.
We have a variety of different containers depending on the size of container you are looking for. Here is a list of just a couple of options that we have in larger planters. Whiskey Barrels(both wood and plastic in a couple of sizes), Earthbox Garden kits which are perfect for container gardening on decks or patios, large plastic terra cotta look pots, large decorative clay pots and more. Your best bet is to stop into the store and take a look. We also have all the seeds you need and will have started vegetables for you when it is time to plant.
I have a couple of pots with mums from last year and the branches are dead, does that mean the part that is in the dirt is dead also or can i try and plant it. How can i tell if the part of the plant inside the dirt is dead
Once it warms up a bit, they will grow if they are alive…if not, they won’t. Cut off all the dead branches from last year. If they were left outside in the pots, they are probably dead since they would have experienced repeaded freeze/thaw cycles. The best way to get them to come back to plant them ion the ground or at least sink the pots into the ground up to the rim. I’d wait and watch…plants are tough and never give up.
Planting Bare Root Ferns? Soak in water 1 hr prior (what temp?) – Potting soil add Bio Tone Starter or ? to potting soil outside of the potting soil that is in contact with the initial bare roots?
You could moisten the roots with some lukewarm water but don’t leave them submerged for more than 5-10 minutes. Use the Bio-tone very sparingly since ferns don’t like too much food. Bio-tone is a gentle organic so there will be no harm if a bit of it comes in contact with the roots.
why are my geranium cuttings turning limp and rotting at the soil line, even with rooting hormone applied?
You’re keeping the soil too moist. Soil wants to barely moist but not wet.
If you are EXREMELY careful and you can spray the weeds without getting any of the vegetation killer on the roses, you could. Kleen-up kills any plant it touches (not just grass and weeds) so, if you attempt this be VERY careful.
I have a rock ledge behind my house that I would like to put perennials in. Do you have any suggestions?
I’m picturing ferns, trillium and other woodlands plants many of which are available as bare-root plants right now. Of course I have no idea how much light the area gets so they may not be good suggestions at all. Check how much light the area gets (once the trees leaf out) and then come in and start reading plant tags to see what is a match.
Flowering annuals are perfect for this and it isn’t late for this at all.
Years ago I found a part of a rosebush root that our dog had torn out two weeks earlier. I planted it and the bush grew again, flourishes but never produces roses. is there anything i can do to re fertilize it?
Feed it right away with some Rose-tone rose food and again in 6 weeks. If it is planted in a spot that gets less than 7-8 hours of sun, it will never flower much.
Can I spray Critter Ridder directly on my tulips? The squirrels are eating all of the petals just as my tulips are about to open.
Yes, you can spray the repellent directly onto the plants.
Can I spray Critter Ridder directly on my tulips? The squirrels are eating all of the petals just as my tulips are about to open.
Yes, you can spray the repellent directly onto the plants.
Bonide Repels-All animal repellent spray will repel squirrels. Spray every 2-3 weeks through spring.
We have Dark Red Norland, Yukon Nugget, Purple Majesty, Rose Finn, French Fingerling, Kennebec and Terra Rosa seed potatoes.
Can you suggest a quality mulch that will control weeds and also enrich the soil as it breaks down? Do you deliver large quantities of this type of mulch?
No mulch alone will totally control weeds. You’ll need a barrier under the mulch to prevent the weeds from coming up through the mulch…like cardboard or weed block fabric. I like Cedar Mulch. We don’t deliver bulk mulch but our bagged mulch is competitively priced and mulch in bags makes the process much easier than a pile of bulk mulch.
I live in Manchester Vt. Which variety boxwoods are hardy for this zone and do you carry them ? If so could you give me an idea of cost. I would be planting them myself.Cathy
We sell, Winter Gem, Green Gem Green Velvet, and Korean Boxwood. All are hardy to zone 4-5 so they should do fine in your zone 5a. They will struggle to survive in very windy locations. We also sell Newport Blue pyramid Boxwood but it is only hardy to zone 6 so avoid that. They are balled in burlap or potted with priced that range from $40-$75.
Hi do you sell Mophead hydrangeas? If so when is a good time to plant these?Do they require a lot of sun?Thanks!
Yes we do…you can plant them as soon as the ground can be dug so…anytime now. Spring is the best time so they have a chance to get a good root system before fall.
Forsythia and other early flowering shrubs form their flower buds the summer before and they winter over on the plants. Last fall and early March 2016 were very warm so the bids were advanced toward blooming much too early. Then April 4th, 5th and 6th happened with lows of 18°,14° and 17°. That froze the buds and so, no flowers this year. Many magnolias and azaleas suffered the same fate. The plants will be fine and leaf out just fine. This happens every so often
The average last frost date for Albany is May 2nd and later for the surrounding hills. There is no frost in the forecast right now either. Planting now would be a bit of a gamble so be prepared to cover up. Tomatoes, pepper eggplant and other “tropical” veggies don’t like lows below 50° so they want to go in the week after Mother’s Day or even later in May depending on what the forecast looks like then. I live in the hills at about 750′ elevation so mine will go in the week before Memorial Day.
I need 4 ground cover plants that are under a gas fireplace for our home. The area has weed control fabric. We planted 4 foxglove plants that did not last the mild winter.Please let me know what to recommend. Thanks in advance for your advice
If it is a sunny area, low growing sedum can probably handle it. If it is shady them perhaps periwinkle. it will have to be something very low to handle the heat from the vent. The foxglove was too tall I’d imagine.
A lot of my beautiful and healthy hostas did not return this years. I haven’t seen any sign of voles and they were all there last fall. What could be the problem?
Be patient…things are running late this year with the cool May weather. Mine are just starting to poke up out of the soil. Deer can be a problem for hostas so an application of repellent like Repels-All in the fall and early spring might be in order.
There is no frost in the forecast so anytime now looks fine but I’m waiting until after Mother’s Day to start and even then I’ll keep an eye on the forecasts and be prepared to cover if something changes. Every year is different as this year is reminding us. I won’t put tomatoes, pepper or eggplant and other “tropical” vegetable starts in until the week before Memorial Day…they don’t like nights colder than 50° to 55°.
I have some Spurge Power and Bayer 3:1 insecticide that froze over winter. Will it still be effective. Thank You, Karen
Possibly…probably not…best to store these things where it doesn’t freeze though. The container will tell you of any special storage requirements.
Probably never. Sorry. It is an airborne disease so, unless everyone stops for about 10 years, it will never subside. They are working on resistant varieties now so maybe someday…..
I planted 10 lobelia fan scarlet perennials lost year. None of them came up this year. I line in Rhode Island. What did I do wrong?
Hard to say…you may have done nothing wrong. If they were planted late in the season, they may not have established a strong root system before winter. Voles may have nibbled them away over winter as well. Here’s some more info on the plant that may help you
My friend bought a hanging basket. Fern on the reduced rake at Lowes. Only .50. She Gav it to me bc I Hav a green thumb she say. It looks like it has been cut straight across & it’s brown but there are little green ferns coming out I want to repot it & would like your advise It’s not dead yet !
Probably drowned or frosted (knowing how badly box stores treat plants). You can repot but that will add to the shock. Keep it moist but not wet and it will probably bounce back eventually.
Hello Peter, I have red beetles that look like lady bugs on all of my lilies. Can you advise me on what to do?I currently pick them off but there must be another way.Thank you,Erika
The Scarlet Lily Beetles have found you. Spray with organic Bon-Neem. The Pyrethrin in the spray will kill the adult beetles on contact and the neem oil will disrupt the feeding of the larvae causing them to die before they become beetles. Spray weekly for the next three week or so until they subside. Note on a calendar when they arrived this year and start spraying next year about a week before that date…you can expect them every year once they are in your area. Without treatment, they will kill the lilies.
What shrubs might do well on the wet shady north side of my house? I would love something to grow at least 3-4 feet high to help hide an air conditioner unit.
Tough spot…Dappled Willow will work but won’t be very colorful in the shade. Pruning will also be necessary to keep it as low as you want.
We do not. We have requested that our growers not send plants that have.
For scarlet lily beetles spray with Bonide Bon-Neem as soon as you see the first lily. The Pyrethrin in the spray will kill the adult beetle and the neem oil will disrupt the feeding of the larvae…eventually killing them before they become the beetle. Spray once a week for a month or so until they subside.
What type of plants and flowers thrive in shady areas? Oh and where can I get them in the capital district?
We have a wide selection of perennials and some shrubs for part shade to shade…too many to list here. The best thing to do is take pictures of the area with your phone and drop by the garden center to talk to our folks and read some of the plant tags.
Clearly that isn’t supposed to happen. Mulch (any mulch…not just the preen product) piledup and around the plant will slowly kill the plant be it a daylily or a Maple tree. Brush the mulch back away from the stem 4″ or so until you see the original soil where the leaves enter the soil and keep it that way. Mulch is good but not when it is piled up around and actually touching and smothering the crown. More on the topic HERE.
I just planted two tomato plants in 5 gallon containers with your organic potting soil. I still have the wire type cages that I used in the ground previous years. I notice all of them have rust on the bottom where they must have gone in the soil. Are they still okay to use?
Yes they are fine…a little rust won’t be any problem.
if asparagus beetles have stripped the fern and all that is left is the stalk can you cut the stalk down in June?
Sure, you might as well perhaps it will send some more up later in the season
Hello, any suggestions for perennials that are short on stature but bloom all summer? I’m looking to border my sidewalk. I do it every year with either begonias or inpatients but it’s a very long sidewalk and would like to put something more permanent in.
Perennials by their nature only bloom for 2 to 3 weeks. This is why we plant annual flowers as you have been doing. There are some that can re-bloom like cranesbill geraniums for shade so you could try those but it won’t be the showy display you get with begonias.
Yesterday, I had a huge white petunia in a large pot, and today, It has been eaten nearly to the soil. No flowers left just thin green stems It was so lovely and all the neighbors commented on it. I almost cried when I saw it this morning. What could have eaten it in since yesterday. I live in Iowa in town, if that helps. Have never seen any slugs here but wonder if it was that or maybe chipmonks??
Eaten that quickly it can’t be slugs. Chipmunks, red squirrels or rabbits could do that though. There are area repellents like Repels-All that can deter them but Hot Pepper Wax Spray can be applied right on the plants and they won’t touch them. Re-Apply after heavy rain. Give it a shot od soluble plant food like Miracle Gro 20-20-20 and they can bounce back quickly.
I am looking for an aggressive and fragrant flowering vine for my pergola. I have spent time in the south and love jasmine. Would this be appropriate for our zone. If not suggestions?
Jasmine is not hardy here. You best choice for an aggressive vine would be Trumpet Vine although it isn’t particularly fragrant…but the hummingbirds love it. Honeysuckle vine is another option…some fragrance and a quick grower.
Hosta “lemony” isn’t hardy here in zone 5 so you’ll need to pot it up and grow it as a houseplant. Expect it to go dormant in the fall so let it get dry and rest without feeding from November through March.
I have a little tiny clumps of mushrooms growing in one of my flower boxes with marigolds. They first came up as tiny little bright red clumps of mushrooms disappeared and are back but now they’re brown. What are they need I get rid of them and how ? I can text you a photo if you want.
They are harmless and are responding to the moist soil. Pluck them out and discard them. Perhaps water less to keep the surface of the soil dry. Stir up the top 1/2″ of soil with a sharp stick to help the surface dry more quickly. They won’t harm the marigolds.
If accidentally swolled about 1/2 cup of crown & glory mixture that was in a water bottle can it cause harm to one shelf
I have no idea what you are talking about. You should probably call the poison control center. https://www.health.ny.gov/professionals/poison_control/centers.htm Assuming what was drunk was Crowning Glory floral spray, I’d contact the manufacturer:
A division of Smithers-Oasis Company
751 Thunderbolt Drive
Walterboro, SC 29488
My cucumber plants are getting little brown spots on them which turn into holes in the leaves. Why is this happening?
It sounds like you might have a Cucumber Beetle or Squash Bug problem…common for them.
Here are some links that might help you pin down the exact issue:
I suspect squash bugs from your description. A combination of Pyrethrin (contact killer) and Neem Oil (stops larvae from feeding and maturing) would do the trick.
Follow the directions on the label.
Here’s the label.
We sell all kinds of stakes, supports and trellis from string trellising to wood to metal…something to support whatever you have.
I am having trouble keeping the animals from invading my garden. What is the best way to keep the wild animals from coming in and eating my plants?
In ornamental beds you can spray with Bonide Repels-All every three weeks and that will keep the critters out. A fence around the vegetable garden will work but you can also spray Hot Pepper Wax spray directly on the plant and no animals will eat them Repels All can be used around OUTSIDE the veggie garden but not actually on the vegetable garden directly.
Yes we do.
is it ok to dig up my currently blooming flowers & put them in flower pots because voles are eating them
The shock of doing that will likely be fatal to them or at least set them back to the point of being useless and ugly. How about treating the area with organic Mole-Max repellent to keep the voles away. Mole-Max works against all rodents including voles and chipmunks.
I do container gardening but I put it off this year,is it too late for my to grow tomatoes and lettuce?
If you can find a well established patio tomato still available you could try. You are right on time for sowing lettuce and other greens like spinach and swiss chard which are best when the mature during early fall. For a look at your late season possibilities (and there are many) check out the Vegetable Schedule…you can pick up your own copy at any Hewitts.
if someone sprayed weed be gone on hostas & hydranga is there any hope that they will come back next spring?can we replant or is it in the ground?
Wash the weed killer off the foliage with water. Keep the soil well watered as well It is possible they will survive…
I bought two mums in pots a week ago one is o k. The petals have fallen of a lot of the flowers on the other. What could be the cause please?
Mums are perennials so, when they finish their flowering cycle, the petals fall off. Snip off the flowers that have finished. They only produce one set of flowers per year.
I have two areas in my mulch with a yellow fungus or something growing on it. What is it and what do I need to do to get rid of it?
it is just some slime mold that is feeding off the decaying mulch…not a problem for the plants. Rough up the area with a rake and let the mulch dry out (stop spray watering if your are) and it will dry up and disappear when the heat and humidity subside. Here’s a link to more: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/fungus-lichen/what-is-slime-mold-slime.htm
my variegated Bishop’s weed is now solid green. Is there anything I can do to get it to be variegated again???
Probably not. Once the green shoots take over, they are more vigorous than the variegated and choke it out. You could try mowing it down and, when it restarts, rip out anything that comes up green.
Stop feeding them and don’t water until they start to wilt. Scare them a bit…it works.
We just installed a small 60 gallon Garden Pond and I would like to plant perennials around. I have a great deal of area and I am really not sure what to plant. The area receives morning sun until early afternoon and then it is shaded. The top 6-8 inches is nice soil and then it becomes very clay like. Is it still safe to plant perennials now at this late in the summer, will they survive the winter?
The sooner you plant your perennials, the better the chance they will have surviving winter. You should amend the soil with some composted manure which we have in bags. Also add a bit of Espoma Bio-Tone to “supercharge the soil. When you are looking at the perennials, look at the tags and and choose plants that say that they are good for “sun” or “sun to part shade” and they should do very well in your location.
It is WAY to late (8/11) to start cukes in the garden. They need to be sown from late May through June to have enough time to mature and produce fruit in our area (USDA zone 5). HERE’S a link to the Vegetable Schedule we provide to our customers so they can stay on track with their veggie planting. You should drop by and pick one up.
I’m not sure what bug you mean so I can’t answer. You can bring a sample to one of the Hewitts locations and they can suggest a solution or send me a picture at firstname.lastname@example.org
because I have suffered white tip on my leeks in the past I have been in the habit of cutting back the centre leaves as they get to a good length this seems to give a good set of leeks but is this practise okay.
Here’s a link to more on your problem. If you are overhead (spray) watering, stop and perhaps you can avoid the problem.
Will you be getting/have gotten broccoli, etc plants for the fall? If so, when and what. We live in Western KY but come to Nashville quite a bit and would love to get them there for our fall/winter garden. Also, do you have any African Violets in stock?
Here in Albany NY (you are thinking of a different gardn center I think) we plant the seeds of broccoli and cauliflower, etc in July for the fall crop…we will not be selling starts for fall crops. Our selection of African Violets is best in fall and winter.
my alstroemeria rock n roll hasnt flowered this is our first year with it and its in a container growing bigger but no flowers also small holes in leaves will it be slugs or snails
Yes, probably slugs…an Iron phosphate (organic and harmless to all but slugs and snails) bait at the base of the plant will prevent this. Here’s a link on care for you plant.
Not hardy here in USDA Zone 5 so it will need to come in for the winter.
I have a Cannova Yellow Canna Lilly. The cold hardiness says 20 to 10 degrees Farinheit. I have it in the ground. If I mulch and cover with a bucket can I save it through the winter? What are your suggestions for it’s survival?
If you live here in the Albany area (USDA hardiness zone 5) there is no amount of mulch or covering that will keep them alive over winter…they must be dug up and stored in a cool place inside. HERE’S A LINK to a tutorial on how to do it.
I have a garden with a row of 12 stella doras. They were planted 4 years ago and have trhived each year. They were doing great this summer until our sprinkler system stopeed working. I didn’t realize that teh plants weren’t being watered until it was too late. Now the leaves are completely dried up. It is only September, so I don’t think this has to do with winter weather. Should I try to cut back the dead leaves and soak with water? Or, do you think these plants are dead?
Daylilies are tough so I doubt they are dead. I’d cut all the dead leaves off and give the area a good soaking. They may even sprout a few new leaves and that is OK. Give them a good soak once a week as long as it stays warm and dry. They will be back next year.
The best weed killer to use for creeping charlie is Bonide’s Chickweed and Clover Killer. Just like all liquid weed killers, Bonide’s Chickweed and Clover Killer is absorbed through the leaves of the weed. It kills the roots too but is absorbed through the leaves. Because of this you need to apply it when rain isn’t expected for the next 24-48 hours. Naturally you won’t want to water it in so you’ll need to shut your sprinklers off for a couple of days. You also need to know that no weed killers should be used on a lawn when temperatures are expected to go above 85° of it will also kill the lawn. Adding a drop of dish washing liquid to the spray will help it coat the weed’s leaves for better contact.
To get rid of moles from your yard you should apply the repellent Mole-Max. It is a granular product that you apply with a lawn spreader and then water in. Once the active ingredient is in the soil, the moles can’t stand it and leave the area. This is a good time of year to use it since young moles have been kicked out by the mother mole and ore out exploring the world for a place to set up a burrow. Moles like to stay in one place so, once they leave, they’re gone. Of course the Mole Max’s effect wears off by spring so a new mole might set up shop. One application in spring and another in late summer/early fall should keep your yard mole free. Most weed killers do fine with dandelions and plantain since they have individual roots systems. Ground ivy is, of course, a vine so it is a little harder to kill and a stronger herbicide is needed. I’d suggest Bonide’s Poison Ivy and Brush Killer . You can use it on the lawn without harming the grass if you follow the directions. This is a good time to go after the ground ivy since the temperatures have backed off from summer’s heat and the soil is moist..perfect conditions for weed killing. You can find both Mole-Max and Poison Ivy and Brush Killer at your local Hewitts.
We use scotts products and do as the bag says, we still have CRAB GRASS and clover what should I do ?? The weed and feed didn’t work.We purchased Chickweed and clover oxalis killer on the clover from you and it didn’t work.First priority is the crabgrass. Thanks, Pt
The directions on Scotts products are kind of vague since they have to cover a wide variety of customers. Since Hewitt’s only has locations here in the Capital District of NY. I’ll assume that you are local and give you this tip for applying crabgrass preventer in this area. The most effective way to stop crabgrass is to apply crabgrass preventer right at the end of the blossom cycle of the forsythia bush right as the flowers are dropping off (just as the lilacs begin to flower). This stops the crabgrass seeds from sprouting and since crabgrass is an annual that grows from seed each year, it is a very effective control. Very often a customer will apply their crabgrass preventer just as soon as the lawn greens up. Since crabgrass only acts on crabgrass during the sprouting phase waiting a bit and using the timing I described above will give better results. Since the crabgrass preventer form a thin film on the surface of the soil it is vulnerable to getting eroded or washed away before it has a chance to act on germinating crabgrass seeds. The opportunity to use crabgrass preventer has passed for this season so the spray is your only option at this point. Repeat sprayings will likely be necessary. The chickweed and clover killer you used will work but needs to remain in contact with the LEAVES of the weed for at least 20 hours (and longer is better). If you watered or it rained within 24 hours of your application then the herbicide was washed off the leaves and it won’t work. Remember, weed killers are absorbed through the LEAVES of the weeds. They will kill the roots but must be absorbed by the leaves.
As the snow melts there are many raised trails apparent on the lawn. What causes this and is there a remedy? Also there are crows pecking at the lawn–any connection ?
The trails on the surface are from voles. Those are trail that they used over the winter to search for food under the snow. They will disappear once you rake the lawn and it starts to grow. The mole repellent Mole-Max will keep the voles away as well as the more destructive moles. Crows pecking at the lawn is often an indication that there are Japanes Beetle grubs in the soil. Those grubs eat theroots of your lawn and can cause the lawn to thin out if there are enough of them. Here’s the scoop on grub control: Controlling Grubs As usual every spring, there’s a lot of interest in how to kill those nasty grubs that have had a hand in wiping out some lawns. And, as usual, I have to tell folks that, if they had treated their lawn before the grubs hatched last August and September, they could have saved their lawn from all this damage. There’s so much confusion about grub control that garden centers will sell a much larger percentage of grub control in the spring than in summer when, logically, it should be the other way around. I’m sure that much of this has to do with the fact that the damage that the grubs do in late summer and fall isn’t visible until the following spring. The first step is to understand the life cycle of the Japanese Beetle. Let’s start at the beginning. The female Japanese Beetle, after feasting on your beans and rose bushes all summer then lays her eggs into warm sunny areas of healthy grass. The healthiest grass around is probably the sunny areas of your beautiful lawn that you’ve worked on all summer. She won’t lay her eggs in the shade since soil temperatures are too low to keep the eggs alive. Each female is capable of laying a couple of hundred eggs. These eggs will all hatch within four days after they’re laid. Are you listening? There are no grubs hatching in the spring. None. They ALL hatch in late August or September. After the grubs emerge from their eggs in late summer, they must eat and what they eat are the roots of your lawn. They eat and eat and eat and eat until they are the size that you are familiar seeing when you find them in your garden while you’re planting. As the soil’s temperature drops in the fall the grubs must burrow down below the frost line to avoid being frozen over winter. Naturally, there is nothing for them to eat down that deep in the soil so they survive on all that body fat they put on by eating the roots of your lawn. Finally in spring, the soil’s temperature begins to rise and the grubs (who are ravenous after months in hibernation) burrow their way back to the root zone of your lawn. Now the feast begins all over again. After putting on another round of body fat (compliments of your lawn) they pause and pupate; that is: they form a hard shell and begin the transformation into the adult or beetle stage of their life. They will enter this pupae stage during Early to mid-June. In mid-July the beetles emerge from the soil and the cycle begins again. If you’ve been paying attention, you’ve realized that by the time you get out there in spring with your grub killer three quarters of the damage the grubs cause has already occurred. This is a classic case of closing the barn doors after the horses have run off. There’s no way we’ll ever convince the Japanese Beetles to change their habits so, we must try to change ours. The best time to wipe them out is during the hatching period in late August or early September. If you have a severe grub problem you may need to treat this spring just to save your lawn from extinction but you should try to time your grub control application so you can prevent the situation from happening again. If you find that you need to apply a grub control as an emergency measure in spring, you should pick one that is fast acting. The best choice for spring applications would be Dylox (Bayer Advanced 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus). It kills quickly and on contact then breaks down quickly once it’s killed the grubs but, since there are no new grubs hatching in spring, it is of no concern. As with all grub controls, it is imperative that they get watered-in for a couple of hours IMMEDIATELY after application. DON’T COUNT ON RAIN TO DO THE JOB! Rainfall is never hard enough to get the chemical off the surface of the soil and down to the roots where the grubs are. You must realize that all grub control chemicals begin to break down as soon as they are out of their bag. Sunlight and air both begin to strip the chemicals of it’s potency the instant it’s out of the bag. Left on the surface of the soil, it will lose about 33% of its potency every 24 hours. As soon as you put your spreader away after you apply your grub control, get the sprinkler out and soak the area with an inch of water. Use an empty tuna fish or cat food can.
Once mushroom spores blow into your lawn they need a couple of things to grow into the mushrooms. First, there needs to be plenty of moisture available…mushrooms love dampness and won’t grow in dry lawns. In a damp year like last year mushrooms seemed to spring up everywhere. In a normal season the lawn usually dries out well between rainstorms so mushrooms are less of a problem. Very often mushrooms are a problem in a lawn that has a sprinkling system installed. Folks with these sprinkling systems seem to like to see them operate and have them set to water the lawn frequently but not very heavily. This causes all kinds of problems for the lawn including encouraging mushrooms and, worse yet, fungal lawn diseases. Properly programmed, a sprinkling system should provide 1″ of water per week in one single watering. This amount of water will penetrate at least 8″ into the soil stimulating deep root growth. It also allows the blades of the grass many day of dryness which makes it much harder for mushrooms and fungal diseases to take hold. Everyone with a sprinkling system should do a test to see how long it takes each zone to put out 1″ of water. This can be done by placing a small tuna fish or cat food can in the zone and run it until the can is full and note how long it took. Then each zone should be set to run for that amount off time just once a week. The second requirement for mushroom growth is the presence of rotting organic matter. This could be an old tree stump rotting below the surface, buried construction debris or something as simple as rotting grass clippings and leaf debris. Removing buried debris and bagging your clipping can help prevent mushroom growth. Mushrooms don’t harm the grass and are actually helping the lawn by breaking down organic matter that the lawn will eventually benefit from. The main reason to eliminate mushrooms is for the safety of small children who might eat them.
HELP! Crabgrass has taken over my normally lovely lawn – and I mean taken over – it’s about 25 to 30% covered – what can I do!
The bad news is is that the best time apply crabgrass preventer is in the spring just as the forsythias are finishing up their flowering cycle (just as the lilacs are starting). There are summer crabgrass killers but they need to be applied to a wet lawn and not get watered off for a couple of days (like weed killer). Usually it takes a couple of applications for summer crabgrass killer to work. Even then, the crabgrass plants will probably already produced seed so you’ll need to apply a crabgrass preventer in spring anyway. I’d suggest that you apply crabgrass preventer for the next two to three spring to be sure you’re rid of it. Then monitor the lawn for the next couple of years since seeds may be redepostied onto your lawn by birds and such. Any digging may stir up crabgrass seeds from deeper in the soil to the surface where they’ll germinate into a new crop in that area. Crabgrass seeds buried too deep to germinate can remain viable for as long as 75 years!!!
The best time for this project would be mid August through the end of the first week in September. This will give the grass seed a chance to sprout in the last warm days of summer and get mature enough to winter over. While it can be done later you’re gambling a bit. It might be OK if we have a warm fall (and I beleave we will) but it still a gamble.
Last year was my first spring/summer in my new house. Not ever owning a home before, I don’t know what to do when it comes to my lawn. Over the summer, a lot of crab grass took route. We applied a fertilizer in the fall. Right now, at the end of March, the snow is gone, the grass has not started to green yet, but I can just see all the dead crab grass and the lawn looks horrible. I know that I should wait to apply the crab grass preventer until when? Late April? Early May? But, what about the dead patches of crab grass that are there now? Should we plant some more grass seed? Will the new grass grow “over” the dead patches of crab grass from last season? If we should plant new grass seed, when should that be done? Thanks!
Crabgrass, unlike most lawn weeds, grows from seed that the mother plant produced the previous summer. The mother plant dies completely over the winter never to be seen again. In early spring the seed germinate and start to grow. Crabgrass preventer is an agent that dissolves and forms a coating on the surface of the soil. ANY seeds that try to sprout and push a root through that barrier are killed. The best way to time your crabgrass preventer application is to keep an eye on a forsythia bush that is growing in your yard or neighborhood. The best time to put your crabgrass preventer down is right as the flowers are falling off the bright yeallow forsythias (right as thelilacs are just opening). It is a convenient coincidence that crabgrass seeds germinate at the same time that forsythias are finishing flowering. Spring weather can be fickle but, if you use the forsythia as your clock, your crabgrass preventer will always go on at the right time. Remember that crabgrass preventer forms a thin film on the surface of the soil so make sure that all your raking is done before you apply crabgrass preventer. If you rake afterward, you will scratch up the barrier and crabgrass will be able to grow.
When applying crabgrass preventer,do you water the lawn before or after applying,or doesn’t it matter.
Crabgrass preventer needs to be lightly watered after application. Rain ususally does the job. Weed killer which we apply in a month or so, wants to sit on the leaves of the weeds for a couple of days without watering. Folks get the two confused very often.
I live in Voorheesville. A 20’x15′ section of lawn is interspersed with obvious dead patches…i.e., no grass where there was grass last year. I dug in a few spots and found grubs. I seem to recall having this problem a few years ago and then no problem for a few years. Anyway, I would like to know when to treat and wonder if I can go ahead a reseed now? Is the damage done for this life cycle or would any new grass just get eaten up by the grubs? Thanks for taking the time to answer…
Go ahead and reseed. The grubs that are in your lawn hatched last year and will have turned into Japanese Beetles before they are a problem for the new grass. You need to treat with Imidachloprid (Bonide Annual Grub Beater) in July. Apply and water in gently with 1″ of water…don’t think rain can do the job, it won’t. Imidichloprid needs to go on in July so it has time to get absorbed into the lawn’s roots before the tiny new grubs hatch in mid August through September. Applied in July and properly watered-in, Imidichloprid will kill 98% of the grubs that hatch. They are tiny when they hatch and easy to kill then before they do any real damage to the roots. You need to apply Imidichloprid every July. Another option is Milky Spore Disease. You apply that twice a year (now and late August) for three years. After that it reproduces itself every year but infecting each new grub hatch. I’m conducting 2 free lawn care seminars today (5/15) at our Guilderland store at 11 AM and 2PM. If you have an hour you’ll learn everything you need to know to take the confusion out of grub control and all other aspects of lawn care.
My lawn has a lot of purple violets (I think that is what they are) What can I do to get rid of them? Thanks
Bonide Weed Beater Ultra will take care of the violets in the lawn. Here’s a link to my recent blog post that explains how to use lawn weed killers. http://ourgarden.freedomblogging.com/2011/05/11/waging-war-on-weeds-2/5705/
The best time to apply grub control is once a year during every July. The product we sell for this is Bonide Annual Grub Control. It MUST BE watered in immediately with 1″ of water (a lot of water). Don’t count on rain or a quick spray from the hose to do the job. Left unwatered, the grub killer breaks down quickly and won’t work. You put the spreader away and get the lawn sprinkler out. Put a small tuna fish or cat food can in the area and, when it is full of water, you have properly watered in the grub killer. If you have a large lawn, do it is sections to insure that the grub control gets watered in quickly after application. Failure to properly water in grub control is the reason many folks don’t get it to work…always read the directions on the product package and, more important, follow them.
I recently purchased a home that literally has no grass in the yard what-so-ever. I would love to grow some, but I don’t know which kind would survive in our soil. I did a soil test and got a 9.0 on the pH, low levels of Nitrogen, medium levels of Phosphorus, and high Potassium. Our property has pine trees on it. It is even possible to grow grass here?
Congratulations on the new home Jade. The good news is that you can grow a lawn in just about any soil including yours. . . . The results of your pH test are a little confusing though. One would expect a yard with pine trees to have a low ph (more on the acidic side) than you 9.0 which is quite alkaline. There are a 3 reasons I can think of that would lead you to get such a high reading. The first is that the soil is clay which is very alkaline. If the soil isn’t clay then the previous owner might have been spreading lime or wood ash on the lawn without checking the ph and has overdone it. The third reason you might have gotten such a high reading is that you used tap water instead of distilled water when you performed your test. Tap water will contain minerals and chlorine both of which will make your reading come out higher than it should have. Distilled water is neutral and won’t affect your test. If you used tap water or well water then you should redo your pH test using distilled water. . . I like blends and of the blends we have at Hewitt’s, I like the Sandy Blend the best. It has 3 types of deep rooted tall fescue grass types. Tall fescues will have the best chance to grow and thrive in your difficuly area. . . . The next step in starting a lawn from seed is to turn organic matter into the area to be seeded. The more organic matter that is turned in, the thicker and more drought resistant the lawn will be for years to come. Peat moss is the easiest form of organic matter to use for improving the soil before seeding. Peat moss is capable of holding 20 times its weight of water. In very sandy soil, the addition of one 4 cu. ft. bale of peat moss per every 100 sq. ft. turned in to a depth of 6” will be necessary. This sounds like a lot of peat moss (and it is) but it is well worth the effort. For a large area, you should rent a roto-tiller to blend the peat moss and lime (if needed) into the soil to a depth of 6”. Once the soil and peat are blended together, the area should be raked smooth. This is easier to accomplish with one of those extra-wide aluminum rakes. If you can’t borrow one, a metal bow rake will do but it will take longer to get the contour you’re looking for. Next you’ll need to roll the soil with a water-filled roller to compact the soil. If you can’t borrow one, rent one. Again, if you skip this step, the project won’t come out as you’d hoped. After you’ve rolled the soil, take another look at the area to see if it is nice and smooth and has the proper contour. If not, rake and roll the area until you’re satisfied. You’ll be looking at the results for many years so take the time now to get it right. Once you’re satisfied, lightly rough up the surface of the soil with your metal rake. Finally it’s time to broadcast the seed. Consult the folks at your local garden center to determine the best grass blend for your particular soil and light conditions. For late–summer seeding, avoid cheap blends that contain annual ryegrass. Broadcast the seed evenly over the area at the recommended rate. Then roll the seed with the water-filled roller to press it into good contact with the soil. If it is a large area, you’ll want to cover it with straw. A smaller area can be covered with burlap or horticultural fabric. The reason you cover the seed is to help keep the sun and wind from drying it out while it’s germinating. After all this is done, you can start watering and watering and watering. This is the trickiest and most important part of the project. No matter how high the quality of the seed used, it won’t germinate unless the area is kept moist CONSTANTLY. It can’t be allowed to dry out, even for an hour. IF THE AREA DRIES COMPLETELY, THE SEED DIES AND CAN’T RESTART. Premium blends of fescue and bluegrass will take 2 weeks just to sprout so be diligent about watering and be patient. If you use a blend that has perennial ryegrass in addition to bluegrass and fescue, be aware that the ryegrass will sprout a week or more earlier. Even after the ryegrass sprouts, continue watering as if nothing has happened to ensure the germination of the desirable fescue and bluegrass seeds. After the young grass is up, apply a slow release winter or starter type of lawn food to stimulate quick root growth. Look for a starter food with a higher middle number (phosphorus). When the grass finally grows to 4”, mow off an inch (and no more) to promote even more root growth. In spring, apply another shot of the starter lawn food to insure that the young grass develops a mature root system
The best way to treat for fleas and ticks is to use the drops on the animal itself. I use Frontline. The only non chemical flea and tick control is diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth is like shards of glass on amicroscopic level. It cut the insects and they die. It is harmless to humans and animals when used on the lawn. Here’s a link to an article about using diatomaceous earth for fleas and ticks. http://www.ehow.com/how_2070717_rid-fleas-yard-naturally.html Remember fleas and ticks don’t like the hot, sunny areas of you lawn. They lurk in the cooler, shady areas so focus your efforts there.
Peter, We live in Ballston Spa. We are infested with ground bees. Last year we had one nest, put gasoline down it, and it was gone. This year, there are hundreds of holes, and thousands of bees. PLEASE HELP. We cannot even enjoy our yard or garden for fear of getting stung. We love our yard and gardens, but we are stuck inside. I have heard you are the expert on “just about everything” so I am hoping you can help us. Thank you in advance. Kim and Brian
There are a couple of suspects possible. Yellowjackets, which mimic bees nest in the ground. There is one entrance and all the insects would go in and out of the one hole. Yellowjackets are wasps and should be eliminated. I’d mix up some insecticidal soad in some hot water and pour it down the hole at night when the yellowjackets wasps are dormant. Trying this in the daytime would be dangerous. Mark the hole and douse it at night when it is safer. Plug up the hole with a wad of newspaper or a rock to seal them in with the insecticidal soap. There are also ground nesting bees which can appear in large numbers in spring and seem to like sandy soil. These bees stay for only a little while. They are females who dig a nest. Lay their eggs and leave. Later the eggs hatch and they fly off as well. These beneficial bees will be one to a hole but there will be many holes. Below is a description of them from this site: http://www.nybiodiversity.org/summaries/bees/species.html The majority of bees in New York State are digger bees, ground-nesting, solitary bees, such as Andrena, Lasioglossum, and Melissodes. Digger bees comprise roughly 60% of the species of bees in New York State. Species of Andrena are typical of ground-nesting bees in their life history. At the start of the active season (in the spring, summer, or fall, depending on the species) females begin constructing their nests, subterranean systems of tunnels. At the ends of the tunnels, females construct oblong cells which they line with a hydrophobic secretion produced in a gland specifically for this purpose called the Dufour’s gland. After foraging on nearby plants for pollen and nectar, they store several loads of pollen and nectar within each cell, form the pollen into a variously shaped loaf or ball, and lay an egg on it. Larvae consume the pollen/nectar provisions. When larvae complete feeding they may enter diapause (a resting stage) as last instar larvae (the developmental stage just before pupation). Most digger bees overwinter as last instar larvae. Development is completed in the following spring or summer, and adults of a new generation begin the cycle again. Some digger bees (such as Andrena, Halictus, and Lasioglossum) overwinter as adults. This is presumed to allow for the earlier adult emergence in the spring. Other important genera of ground-nesting bees in New York State include Colletes, Halictus, [mentioned above, as digger bee genus] Svastra, and Anthophora. All of these make subterranean burrows, like Andrena. Colletes inaequalis is a common vernal bee in the earliest days of spring. Females construct nests in grassy areas such as lawns, cemeteries, and gardens. Nesting aggregations can be huge (with several thousand nests) and dense (with over 100 nests in a square meter). If you are lucky enough to find these bees nesting in your yard, don’t try to kill them; they won’t sting, and they are probably good for soil aeration. They are also fun to watch! It is possible that you had some yellowjacket wasps in the one spot last summer and are experiencing a temporary outbreak of nesting ground bees. You’ll have to observe them more closely to see which it is.
Make sure you pick the right blend for shade. Hewitt’s Super Shady Blend is made of grass types that thrive with no direct sun at all. Here’s a link on how to get the seed started. Once it is established, it should be pretty self-sufficient. If it is growing under a shallow rooted tree like a Maple tree, it may need some extra watering during the hot part of summer since the tree will be hogging so much of the moisture from the soil
Sorry, there’s no good answer other than to rake them into piles and shovel them up. Oaks will produce an extra heavy crop of acorns every 3 to 5 years and this looks like an “on’ year. Worse than all the acorns is the population explosion of destructive chipmunks that has happened due to all the easy food available. Peter Bowden
Can you spread grass seed in November so it will germinate in the spring? I planted a new lawn in a shadey area in mid August, and the germination wasn’t what I had hoped for. I chose a shadey mix seed (mostly fescues). I wondered if I were to spread some seed in November on the sparse areas, if it would sprout in the spring. I also wanted to know if it would help to put down fall fertilizer now, or is it too late. I did use a starter fertilizer when I planted the seed in August. If I can put the seed down in Nov., should I mulch it with straw, or isn’t it necessary?
Yes, you can put seed down in November (the later the better). This is called ‘dormant overseeding. The seed will get pounded into the soil by snow and rain and sprout naturally when the soil warms in spring. There’s no need to use a starter food on the area until the grass sprouts in spring. If you are seeding bare ground then a layer of straw will help hold the soil in place over the winter. If there is already some grass there then there is no need to mulch with straw.
To kill ground ivy (aka creeping Charlie) you need to spray it with Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer. Make sure to spray it when it isn’t going to rain within 24 hours or longer. The longer the spray remains in contact with the leaves, the better it will work. This will be an ongoing battle if your ivy infestation is come from the neighbor’s yard. Since it is a vine, it will always try to come back so repeat applications will be required. Make sure to read and follow the directions on the package.
Mr. Bowden [on TV] stated that when cutting the lawn the mower deck should be approximately 4″ above the ground. At least that is how I interpreted it. Did I mis-understand? It was in reference to the dry period we had without rain. Thanks,
Yes, in my garden segment (which you can find on my blog here: http://ourgarden.freedomblogging.com/ I suggested letting the lawn grow to about 6″ and then mowing it back to 4″ during the hot part of summer. These taller blades will shade the soil below preventing it from overheating. If the soil temperature goes to above 85° to 90° for three or four days the roots start to die. In mid August or so when rain gets more regular and the high heat of summerwanes we can go back to letting the grass grow to about 4″ then mow it back to 2 1/2″ to 3″ to encourage side growth and thickening of the lawn through fall.
I am wondering what the wide blade grass is that pops up in my lawn every year about this time. It is a lighter green and seems to grow faster than the rest of my lawn, it will take over large patches. what can I do to prevent this or get rid of it? Thanks, Nate
The bad news is that it is crabgrass. The good news is that it is easily controlled. The bad news is is that the best time apply crabgrass preventer is in the spring just as the forsythias are finishing up their flowering cycle (just as the lilacs are starting). There are summer crabgrass killers but they need to be applied to a wet lawn and not get watered off for a couple of days (like weed killer). Usually it takes a couple of applications for summer crabgrass killer to work. Even then, the crabgrass plants will probably already produced seed so you’ll need to apply a crabgrass preventer in spring anyway. I’d suggest that you apply crabgrass preventer for the next two to three spring to be sure you’re rid of it. Then monitor the lawn for the next couple of years since seeds may be redepostied onto your lawn by birds and such. Any digging may stir up crabgrass seeds from deeper in the soil to the surface where they’ll germinate into a new crop in that area. Crabgrass seeds buried too deep to germinate can remain viable for as long as 75 years!!!
Peter: I have a squirrels nest high in the tree in my front yard – so I have tons of busy squirrels coming and going ! Unfortunately they love digging little holes in my lawn and my potted flowers! Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Thank you !!
On the lawn you can use Mole-Max. It repels moles of course but no rodent will dig in soil that has been treated with it. That will take care of the burrowing for about 6-8 weeks… long enough for them to find somewhere else. If they return in late summer/fall to bury nuts, another application will be needed.
On the surface of the gardens and on your pots you can use a spray of Bonide Repels All. It is the smell that repels them. You notice a slight garlic smell when you spray but that isn’t noticeable once it dries.
Both these products are considered organic but, as always, read and follow the directions and warnings on the labels.
I have an ifesation of wild violetllllA spraying company told me that he could apply something that only licenced co’s have…I used a spray of an Ortho product..I think it also killed Ozalis and has some chemical, which I forget int..Something that starts with a t..Sorry I can’t be more specific..Phil
For Violets in the lawn, you’ll need Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer.
The answer to this will depend on what is causing the brown spots. Brown spots in your lawn could be from something as simple as a female dog peeing on your lawn or it might be one of several fungal diseases…without seeing it, it would be impossible to diagnose. In the case of a dog being the problem you’ll have to prevent the dog from peeing on the lawn. If this is impossible then keep an eye on the dog and, once it finishes peeing, hose down the area with at least a couple of gallons of water. This will dilute the urine to the point that it won’t burn the grass plants. As far as brown spot caused by diseases, you’ll need to first identify the disease. Here’s a good site to help with that: http://www.american-lawns.com/problems/sick_lawns.html You should also bring a sample of the brown patch into Hewitt’s and let one of our experts identify it and the proper solution…usually a high nitrogen lawn food or a fungicide. Make sure the sample includes the transition zone from healthy grass into the diseases area. The folks that usually have an issue with fungal lawn diseases are folks that have an underground sprinkling system that is set up to run for a short time each day. A damp lawn is the perfect breeding ground for fungal disease. Your sprinkling system should be set up to provide 1″ of water per week all at once. This will soak the soil at least 8″ deep promoting a stronger, deeper root system. This also allows the lawn to enjoy extended periods of dryness which makes it far less likely that a fungal disease will be able to take hold. To figure out how long a sprinkler zone takes to put out 1″ of water, place a small tuna fish or cat food can within the zone and let it run until the can is full. Then reset the system to run that zone just once a week for as long as it took to fill the tuna fish can. Do the same for all the zones and your lawn will be better for it and you’ll use way less water and save money on fungicides too.
Thanks for your question John, Yes, the soil (compost) produced by the Town of Colonie will be fine for use on your lawn. The PH is a little high but that will come down quickly.
Peter: Can I apply grub killer like Bayer Advanced and milky spore at the same time? Also can I plant new grass around the same time? Thanks Dick
You shouldn’t use chemical grub control if you are using Milky Spore. As the grubs are killed by the MS their decomosing body leaves the disease in a new spot. Over time the entire lawn carries the MS disease so grubs that hatch catch it and die reproducing the the disease every year. If the grubs are killed by chemical grub control they can’t spread the disease. Grub controls have no effect of starting grass seed.
Peter, My daughter lives on New Scotland Road in Albany and her grass is coming up in large areas as white in color-no green. This seems to be covering more area than last year. I noticed other homes in Albany with the same problem. The grass is thick but no green color. As I said it’s “white” grass. What is this and what can be done to correct it? Last year, we put turf builder on the area(beside the Scott’s 4-step) and it seemed to help, but in the fall and now it’s noticeable again. Help! Thank you. Susann
I see one of these lawns every day on the way to work. This happens when the lawn is seeded with a single type of bluegrass (I think it is a stran called midnight). For this grass type this is nornal. Feeding helps a little but it is the nature of that grass to do this. I’d suggest introducing a blend like Hewitt’s Sandy grass seed blend to add fescues to the lawn. The easiest way to do this is by dormant seeding…put the new grass seed on the lawn in November. It will get pushed down to the soil over winter by snow and rain and sprout on it’s own in spring. If you overseed now, you’ll have to treat it like a brand new lawn which means watering constantly to keep the seed moist constantly. Dormant seeding is much easier.
I have ‘creeping charlie’ throughout my lawn- first time ever. Is there a way to get rid of it? Too much to pull out.I’m ready to ‘weed and feed’ for dandelions. Will that take care of charlie?Thanks,Judi KozlowskiMelrose, NY
Weed and feed works well against dandelions and other “single weeds but a vine like Creeping Charlie requires a stronger liquid weed killer like Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer. This needs to be sprayed on the leaves of the weeds (it will kill dandelions as well) when night temperatures are 45° or higher and when rain isn’t expected for at least 24 hours…the longer the better. Weed killer enters the plant through the leaves. Creeping Charlie will probably take a couple of application to kill and regular applications to keep it a bay in the coming years.
We have a ton of ticks. Our yard is large. What can we use..powder or spray that can help control them? I have heard of plants like peppermint, geraniums and lavender, but it would not be easy to put these in.
We sell Bayer’s 24 hour lawn insect control…it will take care of the ticks as well as ants and other insects. Just read and follow the directions. It is granular and is applied with a lawn spreader.
What can I do to rid my yard of nutsedge? A few plants have turned into many plants in several locations.
We sell HiYeild Nutsedge control for this Nutsedge is difficult to control…it may take several applications. HERE’S a great link with all the details.
hey peter just wondering what can i put down to kill off crabgrass this late in august and also is there something i can do to stop the neighbors weed filled lawn from creeping into mine? ( its a shared part of lawn between houses and powerboat in the development) i know its late in the season to kill it but its a thing that came out of nowhere since they neglect their lawn badly. thank you james
There are crabgrass and weed killer combination sprays available for you to use this time of year. The best way to deal with crabgrass is to use a crabgrass preventer in spring right as the first lilac flowers are opening. Since crabgrass come fresh from seeds every year (the mother plant dies forever over winter) crab preventers are the best way. If you apply corn gluten a couple of times a year, this will stop all seeds from germinating in the area…the effect of corn gluten gets stronger as you repeat the applications. For established weeds coming from roots, the weed killer spray is the way to go until the corn gluten takes over.
Peter, its me Laura! Hows the office looking? lol two questions…I have literally thousands of tiny hills with one entrance hole all throughout my lawn…. is that from beatles emerging from last years grubs? two.. I have bent grass and want to know the easiest way to get rid of it…. can i kill it with a herbicide, rake the heck out of it and reseed or does if have to be dug up? HELP????
Laura, If The Beatles are emerging from your lawn then you need to start selling tickits!!!! Seriously though, there are several insects that could emerge from the soil as they go from the pupa (cocoon) stage to the adult stage. Japanese and European Chaffer Beetles are among those insects but there are also other beetles wasps and bees that also do this. The fact that there are ‘Thousands’ leads me to believe that it probably Japanese or Chafer beetles that caused this in your lawn. Naturall you’ll want to apply your grub control this month (July) so thre next generation of grubs will be killed when they start hatching in August. To get rid of bentgrass you’ll need to kill it and reseed in mid-august. You can spray the area with Kleen-up then rake off or dug out the dead grass. You could also cover the area of bent grass with clear plastic and anchor the perimeter with rock or something heavy so the plastic is sealed to the ground. The sun will heat the air under the plastic so high that the grass dies. You’ll still neeed to rake off or shovel ot the dead grass before reseeding.
You can apply Bonide’s MoleMax when the snow melts again. MoleMax is a repellents that will gat rid of voles and moles which are a bad problem every spring.
I seem to have skunks digging for grubbs. It appears to be near an ash tree. Does the ash tree attract the beetles. any solutions?
Ash trees can be eaten by Japanese Beetles but so are many other plants. If you want to treat for grubs, that is best done by applying Bonide Annual Grub Control in July followed immediately by 1″ of water. If the grub control isn’t watered in with an inch of water right away the chemical will break down and not work. Don’t count on rain or a light spraying with a hose to do the job. Set up a lawn sprinkler and put a small tuna fish or cat food can in the area. When the can is full, you have applied enough water. Here’s a link all about that.
In the meantime, an application of MoleMax to the area will keep the skunks and any other rodents away from the area.
Does Hewitt’s have something that will kill fleas and ticks , that would be in a granule that I could use a spreader to save my dogs from then pest,
Yes, we sell Bonide Flea and Tick Killer for use on lawns. Use as directed following the instructions on the package.
I am looking for a groundcover called bishop’s weed, would like seeds. the area I need to cover is too large for pots to be affordable.
Sorry, we don’t stock Bishop’s Weed since it is considered invasive. If you see some in someone’s yard, they’ll probably give you all you want. However, you may regret the day you turned it loose in your gardens.
We live in Niskayuna in sandy soil and have grubs in every shovel full of dirt. I heard there are organic grub controls that get applied in June. Can you suggest something.
You are probably thinking of Milky Spore. HERE’S a link to a blog post all about grub control and the third one mentioned is the one you’re interested in.
You need to get this grass seed down and start watering it THIS WEEKEND (9/13-14). You should have plenty of time to get it established before freezing weather but you need to get cracking.
I am growing a moss backyard but weeds are growing also. If I increase the acidity of the soil, (how best to do this) would it kill the weeds without damaging the existing moss?
No, increasing the acidity (lowering the pH) will not kill the weeds. Most weeds tolerate or even prefer a lower pH. The best way to control weeds will be by physically removing them or by misting the leaves with a liquid weed killer when it isn’t expected to rain for at least 24 hours. You can lower the pH by applying sulfur to the area but I wouldn’t do that. If the moss is doing well, it will create the level of acidity it prefers on its own over time.
I have a StaGreen rotary spreader. What setting should be used for Country Estates lawn food + crabgrass preventer?
Setting #6, or 4 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft.
Crabgrass and weed preventer prevents weed seeds from germinating but won’t kill clover or any weed that is coming up from and established root system. As the name implies, it is a weed “preventer” not a weed “killer”. To kill established clover and other lawn weeds, you’ll need Bonide Chickweed and clover KILLER. It will need to be applied when the weeds are actively growing…usually mid-May or so.
my question also have to do with browning. this is a new lawn that i was so excited with because until now, i have not had a lawn for some years. i followed the directions on seeding and watering, making sure it did not get dry. the seeds sprouted and i havent cut it yet. now it is starting to brown. should i stop watering it everyday? will i lose my lawn yet again?
Yikes!!! Stop watering it every day! The requirement for constant moistness is for the grass in its seed form. Once it sprouts you can stop watering it every day. Sure, the lawn only has tiny roots but you need to encourage those roots to go down into the soil to get moisture. Let it dry out and only water when it starts to look wilty. A really good idea would be to apply a grass starter lawn food like the Fas-Start that we sell at Hewitt’s. This food will feed those roots to help get the lawn established. Aplly and water in the starter food on a cooler day or apply it before a cool rainy stretch. Don’t feed your lawn (or any lawn) during a warm spell where temperatures can go above 85°. In other words, take a break from watering and let that new lawn enjoy some dry weather and sunshine so it can grow.
Good morning – This morning I woke up to 5-6 “dead spots” on my lawn all around the same area (under a tree). It literally happened overnight. I do have 2 dogs, but they don’t spend any time in the front yard so I ruled out pet damage. The only thing I can think of is either insects or fungus. I attached a picture – would you mind offering some assistance on how to kill and prevent it from happening again? The only thing different I have done with my grass since the weekend is water it. heavily. The last watering was on Monday, for about 3-4 hours starting at 8am. This is actually the only time I have watered it all summer. PH and other nutrients are at good levels and I aerated it in the Spring of 2009. Any ideas? Thank you so much for your help, Robert
Robert, Considering the time of year, the speed of onset and the fact that you recently watered the area heavily, I’d suspect that you have an outbreak of Summer Patch’ which is a fungal disease. Here’s the address to a Purdue University pdf file describing the disease and suggestion on what to do about it. . . . www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-115-W.pdf . . . It looks like your watering may have played into the hand of the disease and that’s why it appeared so suddenly after your watering. We have a couple of fungicides ‘Bayer Lawn Disease Control’ and Bonide’s ‘INFUSE’. Both have the same active ingredient ‘propiconazole’. These products can cure many diseases but with summer patch it is suggested that it be used starting in mi-May as a preventitive. In your case I’d start using the Bonide Infuse since it is in a throw away hose-end sprayer. A liquid application will get deeper into the soil and get at the disease at the root level. This should prevent the disease from spreading too much farther. Make sure to start using Infuse as a preventative in next spring May as suggested since you know you have the disease present in your lawn. Peter Bowden
Peter – I had some patches of lawn in my back yard in Glenville which has low spots which have been filled in. Some typical weeds are growing in – so its “green” for now but I’d rather have grass. What is the protocol for fall planting of new grass – i.e. when to seed, when to fertilize, use a rye for 1st year growth or go with regular seed r mix of both?. Areas are partly shady with sandy soil with one area under 60 foot pine trees.
The shorter, cooler days of late August and early September make it the ideal time to make permanent improvements to the condition of our lawn. Turf experts agree that this is the best time of year to start a lawn from seed. This is the best time to tackle this project but the window of opportunity is a small one so don’t put it off. The first step in starting a lawn from seed is to turn organic matter into the area to be seeded. The more organic matter that is turned in, the thicker and more drought resistant the lawn will be for years to come. Peat moss or peat humus are good choices. Peat moss is capable of holding 20 times it’s weight in water. In very sandy soil, the addition of one 4 cu. ft. bale of peat moss per every 100 sq. ft. turned in to a depth of 6” will be necessary. Peat moss must be turned into the soil so the soil will retain moisture where the roots are growing. This sounds like a lot of peat moss (and it is) but it is well worth the effort. For a large area, rent a rototiller to blend the peat moss into the soil to a depth of 6”. Once blended, the area should be raked smooth. This is easier to accomplish with one of those extra-wide aluminum landscape rakes. If you can’t borrow one, a metal bow rake will do but it will take longer to get the contour you’re looking for. Once the area is raked smooth, tamp the soil down with the back of your shovel. For a large area, you’ll need to roll the soil with a water-filled roller to compact the soil. If you can’t borrow one, you can rent one. Again, if you skip this step, the project won’t come out as you’d hoped. After you’ve tamped or rolled the soil, take another look at the area to see if it is nice and smooth and has the proper contour. If not, rake and roll until you’re satisfied. You’ll be looking at the results for many years so take the time now to get it right. Once you’re satisfied, lightly rough up the surface of the soil with your metal rake. Finally it’s time to broadcast the seed. Consult the folks at Hewitt’s to determine the best grass blend for your particular soil and light conditions. Broadcast the seed evenly over the area at the recommended rate. Most folks overdo it and put down way more grass seed than is necessary. Finally, tamp or roll the area to press the grass seed into good contact with the soil. If it is a large area, you’ll want to cover it with straw. A smaller area can be covered with burlap or horticultural fabric. The reason you cover the seed is to help keep the sun and wind from drying it out while it’s germinating. Now the tricky part After all this is done, you can start watering and watering and watering. This is the trickiest and most important part of the project….here’s why. No matter how high the quality of the seed used, it won’t germinate unless the area is kept moist CONSTANTLY.It can’t be allowed to dry out, even for an hour. If the area dries out completely, the seed dehydrates and dies and it won’t restart. If that happens you’ll have to buy more seed and start all over again. Premium blends of fescue and bluegrass will take 2 weeks just to sprout so be diligent about watering and be patient. If you use a blend that has perennial ryegrass in addition to bluegrass and fescue, be aware that the ryegrass will sprout a week or more earlier than the other two. Even after the ryegrass sprouts, continue watering as if nothing has happened to ensure the germination of the desirable fescue and bluegrass seeds. Finish up with a good meal After the young grass is up, apply a slow release starter lawn food to stimulate quick root growth. Starter foods should have a higher middle number (phosphorus). Phosphorus stimulates root growth, and that’s what’s needed for a new lawn. The stronger the root system, the quicker the grass gets established and the better it will come through winter. Avoid high nitrogen lawn foods on a newly sprouted lawn. It will stimulate excess blade growth that the young root system will have a hard time supporting. The roots are the foundation of your new lawn. Just like building a house, you need to start from the bottom up. Keep the young grass tall but mow frequently When the grass finally grows to 4”, mow off an inch (and no more) to promote even more root growth. In spring, apply another shot of the starter lawn food to insure that the young grass develops a mature root system before summer heats up. By midsummer your new lawn should be well established, and you can start feeding and mowing it in the same manner as the rest of your lawn.
My husband and I are having serious differences about when is best to give the lawn its first raking. I think it should be when all frost danger has passed — he says NOW! Who is right?
There’s no reason I know of to wait to rake the lawn until after the danger of frost. I have to agree with your husband. You can do a better job with less effort if you rake he lawn before it starts to grow so get crackin’! You two must have a great relationship if this is all you have to have a serious difference about 😉
You’ll need to apply Bayer 24 Hour Grub Control right away and water it in with a full inch of water from your sprinkler…don’t think a quick spray or rainstorm will do the job. That will kill the grubs that are in your lawn now that you should’ve killed last year. Then you’ll need to re-seed the area and keep it moist until the lawn is up and established…about 6-8 weeks. Here’s a link about lawn seeding…it was written for end of season seeding but the procedure is the same. Then you’ll need to treat for the grubs in July with Bonide Annual Grub Beater. This will kill the grubs as they hatch in August and September. This kills them before they do all the damage and you won’t ever need to treat in spring again as long as you continue the July treatments every year. Here’s a blog post all about the proper time and way to treat for grubs.
You can spread lime anytime and you can water it in if you wish or just let the next rainstorm do it for you.
I am somewhat confused about when to apply grub control on a lawn, Moles are active now and it was my understand to apply lime in the fall to kill grubs. What product should be applied now (spring) for control of moles and other insects that want to eat my lawn?
I am somewhat confused about when to apply grub control on a lawn,
The best time to apply grub control is in July…”apply in July when the beetles fly”. Here’s a link that explains grub control.
Moles are active now
Treating for grubs may discourage moles but moles also eat earthworms so, using grubs control doesn’t automatically mean your moles will move on…they won’t. The way to rid you lawn of moles is to use a mole repellent like MoleMax. Here’s a link that describes methods of mole control.
and it was my understand to apply lime in the fall to kill grubs.
Sorry, lime doesn’t kill grubs (or anything at all) but is used to correct soil acidity. A pH test should be done before applying lime. Here’s a link to all you need to know about soil pH testing and lime applications
What product should be applied now (spring) for control of moles and other insects that want to eat my lawn?
The only insects to possibly be concerned about are ticks and ants. These aren’t a problem for your lawn but, if you want to treat for them there’s this.
Bermuda Grass isn’t something we have here in USDA zone 5 of upstate NY so I have no direct experience with it. Iyt appears that there is a spray available that will control it without harming your other turf grasses. It is made by Bayer HERE’s a link.
About 3 months ago we moved into our new house. We sodded the yard with st Augustine grass. We have had more wasps in the yard that I can ever Remember. Is there something I can use that is pet friendly to rid the yard from them
I’m not familiar with southern turf problems but it sounds like you might have Digger Wasps. HERE’S a link to more on them. If they are Digger Wasps then you’ll want them to do their thing since they are actually helping your lawn. If you can identify the wasp, that woud be a great help since many of the are helper and not hurters.
Short during the cool damp days of spring and fall..long during the hot, dry days of summer. The last cutting can be a low mow…2″ or so.
My pool cover was spread out on the grass to dry. The side of the cover on the ground was the side that rested in the water (and pool chemicals). Needless to say, the grass is now brown. What should I do to the ground in order for the grass to regrow in that area?
It may have been the pool chemicals but more likely it got so hot under there that it overheated the grass and top layer of soil and cooked the grass to death. Now you’ll need to rough the area up with a rake and reseed and feed with a starter lawn food. Keep the area constantly moist until the grass is well established and keep it mowed no lower than 5″ all this summer. Next spring you can start treating life the rest of your established lawn. I would dry the pool cover on the driveway next time.
We are having our lawn hydro-seeded within the next two days, I was wondering how long should we let it settle in before applying a winterizer?
You can apply our Winterizer/Seed Starter lawn food anytime after the seed is applied. I
Acorns will slightly acidify the soil and cause nutrients to be unavailable to the plants. Regular testing for soil pH levels and applications of limestone can overcome this.
My house was built in the late 1950’s. I want to dig out the crawl space under the house and was wondering if I could use that dirt that hasn’t seen daylight in 65 years to level out my front yard. Will I be able to grow grass with this soil?
Sure you can use it but I’d add some nutrients and soil microbes to jump start the old soil. Espoma Bio-Tone starter food would be perfect for that.
Peter : i have a patch of my back lawn that turns yellow in the fall the last 2 years. I do not think that the grass is dead because it turned green again in the spring. any ideas? Thanks.
There some grass deeds that were popular in the 1980s, the “midnight” strains of bluegrass, that do this. they also look dead in spring until they green up in late May. I’d consider overseeding the area with a modern blend so you have a green lawn early and late in the season. I’d suggest our Sandy Blend. You can use a little trick called “dormant overseeding”…read more about that HERE.
Peter – I need to start using organic lawn fertilizers and foods for my yard due to the fact that I’m getting Mason bees for pollination and fun. What do you suggest for a yard of about 5000 sf.
That’s great! We sell just what you need. Espoma Organic lawn food as well as Organic Foods for all your landscape plants. HERE’S a link to their lawn food line and you can explore their site for the rest from there…great, high quality foods. They’ve been making this stuff for a long time….my favorite organic nutrients.
The Forsythia buds have come open green in color as opposed to yellow. How do we know when to apply the crabgrass pre-emergence products?
HERE’S what you need to know
Hi Peter. I have recently applied scotts turf builder weed n feed. Do I have to wait to apply mole max and scotts green max. Thanks
There is no problem applying Mole-Max after lawn food. We don’t sell Scott’s Turf Builder or Green Max so you should probably ask the folks where you bought that about that. We sell a much better lawn food made to our specifications…you should check them out…the Country Estate line of lawn food and grass seed products…much better than Scotts.
Peter, crabgrass has completely overtaken our lawn in Latham. Are we better off letting it die this fall and then dormant seeding in the late fall or putting down a crabgrass killer now and then waiting 8 plus weeks to seed?
The best plan would be to get you grass seed don now and water it as need to get it up and established now before winter. Then, in spring, you can use crabgrass preventer and your new grass will be mature enough to withstand the crabgrass preventer. If you wait until Nov./Dec. to dormant over seed, the crabgrass preventer will also prevent your over seeded turf grasess from sprouting as well.
Same as it is here…right as the forsythias flowers are falling to the ground which is right as the very first lilac flowers are opening. Use these two shrubs a your clock…not a date on the calendar. That way your timing is correct no matter whether we have an early (like 2012) or late (like this year) spring. Trust the forsythia and lilacs in your area. Here’s a link to blog post all about that.
No where that I know of. I assume you are wanting to use it for killing plants. Since 20% vinegar is much stronger than food grade vinegar, it generally not available to the general public. You might try searching for it on the internet if you are really set on using it.
We do sell an organic plant killer from St Gabriel Organics called BurnOut II. I is a combination of Citric Acid and Clove Oil and will kill plants much like Round-Up does. Make sure you’re not using this product on the lawn since it kills everything it touches…weeds or grass. Make sure to read and follow the direction on the package since, organic or not, it must be used correctly to be safe.
i live on a busy road in glenville, several years ago i planted spruce trees to allow for privacy, they have since overgrown. i would like to replace them with something that might cut down traffic noise and leave some privacy (on front lawn), is there anything you might recommend? would veriegated dogwood shrubs work? thank you!
Sure, variegated dogwood can make a nice privacy barrier but it loses its leaves in the winter so it will only be a seasonal barrier. If this is OK with you and the area gets full sun then you should also consider weigela, spirea, lilacs, burning bush and a whole host of spreading flowering shrubs that can make fine hedges. If you’d prefer a year-round barrier then there are arborvitae and upright or spreading junipers. If you wish to keep the spruce trees, you could prune off the lower branches and plant spreading junipers to fill in below for a very dense barrier.
Had a company come out a few weeks ago and put down fertilizer mixed with crabgrass and weed control. It’s it okay to plant grass seed now (to fill in empty patches where moss once was)? Will the pesticides keep the seed from germinating?
The crabgrass preventer barrier on the soil should be gone by now. When you rough up the area prior to seeding, that will make it impossible for what’s left of the barrier to hinder the seed. Get that seed down right away!
The recent draught has been tough on my lawn. I am interested in overseeding my lawn. From what I have read clover is the way to go, and white clover is superior to the red variety. Clover fixes nitrogen, is heat tolerant, and it resistent to pet spots. What do you say? Please describe the optimal procedure for overseeding with the variety of seed that you recommend.
While we are having a hot summer and there have been many extended periods of dryness, your lawn shouldn’t have suffered much damage if you’ve been mowing properly. As June winds down, make sure you start raising your mower’s blade. By July (our driest month) you should have a lawn 4″ to 5″ tall and only mow it back to 3″. This keeps the soil cooler and the lawn will come back just fine. As far as clover is concerned, you are right in all you say…it can be a great addition to a lawn as long as you like it. The only other thing to take into consideration are the clover flowers. While you might like the flowers be aware that they will attract bees. If you have small children or someone who live there or visits regularly who is allergic to bee stings then you’ll want to think twice. I’d broadcast the seed really early spring right after the snow melts. Spring rain will pound the seed into good contact with the soil and it will sprout with the first warm weather in late April or early May. You can also use this procedure for grass seed. I always like to suggest Hewitt’s Sandy Blend since it has deep rooted tall fescues as a majority of the blend. Modern tall fescues are fine bladed but deep rooted for better drought resistancy.
I bought some country estate winterizer fertilizer and have a republic ez rotary spreader and need to know what setting to use. (its the same as the old ortho rotary). thanks
Joe, As it happens, I still have one of the old Ortho rotary spreaders. On the Country Estate Winterizer (and all CE foods) you’ll see a setting for a Cyclone spreader. That’s the one to use and the setting for Winterizer is 3 3/4. Thanks for your question.
My front lawn has been taking over about 75% by crabgrass so I am starting from scratch and going to reseed. I also had a problem with grubs. I have thatched the lawn to get up all the dead crabgrass but a couple of weeks ago I put down weed and feed as well as Grub and insect control. I plan on putting down 1-2 inches of new topsoil as well as fertilizer. Since this is my maiden run at this my question is will the weed and feed keep my lawn seed from growing? Thanks.
I hardly know where to begin Doug. My best advise is to send you to Hewitt’s to talk to the manager about your project. I wouldn’t do a thing untill you have the new soil in place. Then put your grass sees and starter food downand start watering to get the seed to sprout. If you cover crabgrass seed with 2″ of soil then it won’t sprout anyway. I’m not sure what grub control you used but the best time to treat for grubs is during July with Bonide’s Annual Grub Control. The weed and feed was put down WAY too early so the weed killer won’t do anything and isn’t effective against crabgrass anyway. Crabgrass Preventer is made for that. The answer to your question is: No, your weed and feed won’t keep your lawn seed from growing since you’re covering it with 2″ of soil. Before you go any further with your lawn, you need to learn more about it since you are wasting a lot of time and money applying the products improperly or at the wrong time. Either visit one of the Hewitts and have the manager there set you on the right course or come to one of my lawn care seminars. Here’s the schedule: http://www.hewitts.com/meetpeterbowden.html
Is there any plant or product short of putting up a fence that will act as a deterrant for neighbors dogs from doing their business on my lawn and killing the grass. I am in the process of reseeding and don’t want all of our hard work to go to waste. Thanks.
“Fences make good neighbors.” There is a dog and cat repellent that can ‘help” dissuade the dogs from using your yard. It is called “Go Away Rabbit, Dog and Cat Repellent” by Bonide. It is a combination of white pepper, cinnamon oil and Thyme oil. You’ll apply the product around the perimeter of your yard so they will smell it and go the other way. Problem is they’ve already claimed your yard as their dumping ground so the product might not work as well as you’d hope. Also, rain washes the repellent away so you’ll need to reapply frequently. A fence would be the only sure fire way to solve this problem. In the meantime, if you see the dog peeing on the lawn, soak the area down right away with a couple of gallons of water. That will dilute the urine enough that it won’t harm the grass.
Any broadleaf plant growing in the lawn can be killed with a lawn weed killer such as Weed Beater Ultra. If it is growing among other plants or shrubs it will need to be pulled up. Twice a year applications of corn gluten will keep seeds from sprouting in the future.
What is the best thing that I can do at this time of year for grub control? Are there some products that are more eco-friendly?
The only eco-friendly grub control is Milky Spore Disease. Milky Spore is a disease that only affects white grubs. It won’t hurt earthworms or even a bird that eats a grub that has the disease. Milky spore needs to be applied two or three times a year for three years to reach “epidemic” proportions in the soil. Milky Spore is best applied in spring and fall and must get watered in heavily right after application just like the other grub controls. After that the grubs that hatch into your lawn will contract the disease then die reproducing the disease and spreading it throughout the soil. Milky Spore is more expensive up front but will last at least 20 years once it takes hold. Not a bad investment really. Over the years it will actually save you money to say nothing about the time you won’t need to spend spreading chemicals and running sprinklers.
I want to overseed my lawn and I have both sun and shade areas. What is the best type of seed to get? I was in the EG store and saw sun, shade and sturdy grass seed. Which would be best? Also, my lawn was treated about 1.5 weeks ago and won’t be treated for another few weeks. Can I seed now? Thanks.
I would use Country Estate Sandy Mix which is a blend of fescue grass seed. Fescues grow equally well in Sun, Shade, Sand or Clay. Fescues have very deep root systems, which make them tolerant of drought. Ask the Store Manger for seeding and fertilizing intructions, and most important, be sure to water daily until the seedings being to sprout.
bouht 7 yards of top soil so I could cover roots and reseed barespots. there is a lot of stones and glass chips in soil. will I be able to grow grass?
Try to rake out as much of the glass and stone that you can. If this is not possible, I would try to put down a layer of clean sifted topsoil and then proceed with your overseeding. I would still be leery of letting little ones or dogs run on your lawn dependent on the size of glass involved
Cherry Blossom Trees do very well in the Capital District area, and Hewitts’ carries a couple of different varieties. Weeping Cherry and Kwanzan Cherry are among the most beautiful flowering Cherry Trees, with long lasting blossoms, provided that we dont get a drenching rain storm. Any one of our locations will have these trees in the spring. The weeping variety will sell between $80.00 and $150.00 apiece, while the Kwanzan sells between $30.00 and $75.00 dollars. These trees carry the Hewitts’ Lifetime Guarantee as well. We are currently running our end of the year clearance sale, where you might be able to locate one of these trees at a deep discount, however, they are not covered by the guarantee..
I have a large section of my lawn that turns yellow in the fall/winter and takes much longer to “green” in the spring. It actually looks like straw when it’s yellow. I see it’s fairly common around here because I’ll come across other lawns like this now and then. From what I found, it seems like someone put down a “warm weather” grass like Bermuda, so it’s going dormant in winter and takes longer to green in the spring, here in the northeast. My guess is I just need to accept this unless I want to try and pull it all out and start over? Is there anything I can add to it in winter or spring to help it to green earlier? Thanks.
That section was probably seeded at one time with one of the “midnight” strains of Kentucky Bluegrass. They do just what you describe. Try overseeding the area with our Sandy grass seed blend in late November to add other grass types to the area.
Im concered about my beagle and putting herbicides on my lawn. I heard that corn gluten is a safe product to use on your lawn that will not harm dogs? Is that true. Thanks PTF
Corn Gluten is certainly safe for the dog. However, corn gluten is a weed preventer not a weed killer. It will prevent seeds from germinating. Weed seeds, crabgrass seeds…all seeds including good grass seeds will be prevented from germinating. It WILL NOT kill existing perennial weeds, like dandelions that are growing from an already established root system. For those, you’ll need to use an actual weed killer. Liquid sprays are the most effective. We sell Weed Beater Ultra. This is a spray that you’ll spray on the leaves of the weeds. It is absorbed through the leaves of the weeds only. It kills the roots but has to enter through the leaves. It is still too early to use weed killer sprays (4/30/14)…it is a little too cool still. Night time temperatures want to be 45° or above for the weed killer spray to work. Since it is absorbed through the leaves, it needs to remains in contact with the leaves for at least 24 hours. Don’t water after application and don’t apply when rain is expected within 24 hours. These liquids are safe for pets as you don’t let the dog walk on the lawn while the spray is wet. I’d keep the dog off the treated area until rain has washed the weed killer into the soil. The nice thing about the liquid spray is that you can treat the lawn in sections and don’t bother spraying areas where there are no weeds. As always, always read the label before using and follow the instructions to the letter.
Insect control for ants fleas and ticks can be put down anytime as needed. Grub control is best put down and watered in with 1″ of water in July. HERE’S a link to a blog post all about grub control.
I have recently had a large maple tree removed from my lawn. I got a little impatient and decided to sod instead of seed. I usually put down a weed n feed from the dandelions. The sod has been on the ground for two weeks and I have noticed the sod has started to grow a bit. Can I put down the weed n feed on the new sod or should I hold off?Thanks… Seth
The weed and feed won’t hurt the sod although there probably aren’tany weeds in the sod so you don’t really need a weed and feed there. A starter lawn food like our Country Estate Winterizer/Seed Starter blend would make more sense. Also, it is still too cool (5/6/14) for weed and feed to work…it is still too cool for the weed killer to work…we want night time temperatures to be hovering around 45°- 50° before applying weed killer liquid or weed and feed.
Weed preventer like Preen or Corn Gluten prevents weed seeds (or any seeds for that matter) from germinating but will not kill existing weeds that already have a root system. Weed killers DO kill existing weeds but won’t stop seeds from germinating later. There are weed killers on the lawn that will kill the weeds but not the grass and there are plant killers like Round-up and Kleen-up that kill ANY PLANT that they are sprayed on including your lawn or flowers…use these with caution.
Yes, we do stock sod. Deliver will be up to the store you are purchasing the sod from so inquire about that when you go to make the purchase. There is an additional delivery fee.
My neighbors tree is always dropping some sort of seeds from it now I have which looks like forms of little tree like stems in my yard. What is this and how can I rid my lawn of them
Assuming it is tree seedlings, they will probably be killed simply by mowing them. Certainly spraying them with a lawn weed killer like Bonide Weed Beater Ultra will wipe them out. Make sure to spray them when rain ISN’T expected for at least 24 hours after you spray the area.
I’d spray the crabgrass with a product from St. Gabriel’s Laboratories called Burn Out. It is a blend of Citrus and Clove oils. It will kill anything that you get it on the leaves of so be careful with it. Spray when it is not breezy. Read and follow the directions on the label.
No. By law, you will not find a lawn food with any phosphorus (the middle number) for sale in New York State. The closest we can come to your formula would be the Espoma Lawn Food 18-0-3
Is clover a bad idea? We’ve tried for years to get grass to grow in our lawn. Long story short, it only works in some areas, not all – and so we have some beautiful sections of lawn surrounded by small patches that don’t grow. We’re sick of spending the time/money to keep trying and just want something low maintenance instead. Would clover work? Or should we assume if the grass won’t grow, the clover won’t either? Thanks
Clover is often used in difficult location. I have to wonder why you haven’t been able to grow grass. Perhaps the soil is very acidic and you need to do a soil pH test and apply lime. Even clover will struggle to grow in the area if the pH is very low (high acid). Before giving up I’d do a pH test to see if that is a problem.
You can minimize ticks in your yard with an application of Bonide Ant, Flea and Tick Killer. Make sure to follow the directions. There is no product that can totally and forever rid your yard of all ticks.
A blend of turf quality tall fescue like you’ll find in our Country Estate Super Sandy Grass Seed Blend
I recently bought a home and half of the front yard had no grass and tons of weeds and crabgrass. I rotatilled and planted new seed and layed Scotts starter fertilizer. The grass is grown great but now there’s still crab grass and clover growing back in. Is there any thing I can use to get rid of it and not harm the newly grown grass.
The thing to do would’ve been to use the starter food with crabgrass preventer that will prevent crabgrass from germinating but not your lawn grasses. It costs quite a bit more but prevents your problem from happening. The best thing to do at this point would be to let it all grow all summer. You can use Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer on the area once temperatures are correct again in September (used now in the eat and on young grass it will kill the grass as well as the weeds). Then, next spring, apply Hewitt’s Country Estate Lawn Food with Crabgrass Preventer when the lilacs are just starting to flower to prevent the crabgrass from returning.
Bonide Ant Flea and Tick Killer will work and is safe as long as you read and follow the directions on the label.
Can you recommend an effective mole treatment other than a trap. My sodded lawn is looking bad now with all the dirt hills.
Mole-Max Mole and rodent repellent works fast.
I have an invasive, fast growing, very coarse grass (?) appearing in spots throughout my lawn. It has a very shallow root system. I’m not sure what I’m dealing with and how I should be handling this. Would appreciate any thoughts you might have. Susan Gladstone
It sounds like crabgrass. It is an annual so it will die with frost after leaving behind a crop of seeds that will sprout next spring for the next cycle. The best control is crabgrass preventer applied at the right time in spring. HERE’S a link to explain the timing of crabgrass preventer in spring.
My front yard is infested with ant hills and crabgrass. What do I do to eliminate both at the same ensuring they will not return. Also what do you suggest I do to start a new lawn. Thank you laurie
You can kill the ants with Bonide Ant, Flea and Tick Killer. Crabgrass requires the use of crabgrass preventer for a few years to prevent the crabgrass seeds from germinating. It is a little late to do that this year since the seeds have already sprouted. You can use a crabgrass killer spray but that is not as effective. There is no real “forever” solution to these problems.
HERE’S a link to all about starting grass from seed. The blog post is from last August but the procedure is the same. Get to your lawn seeding right away. The longer and hotter the days become, the harder it is to keep the seeds watered and moist.
To kill ground ivy (aka creeping Charlie) you need to spray it with Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer. Make sure to spray it when it isn’t going to rain within 24 hours or longer. The longer the spray remains in contact with the leaves, the better it will work. This will be an ongoing battle if your ivy infestation is come from the neighbor’s yard. Since it is a vine, it will always try to come back so repeat applications will be required. Make sure to read and follow the directions on the package.
I have Red Thread on parts of my lawn and am told it is because of a lack of Nitrogen in the soil. Is this true? I have a lawn care company fertilize my lawn, shouldn’t they be applying enough Nitrogen Based Fertilizer to prevent Red Thread? This never happened when I had a different company fertilizing my lawn. Also do you do ph and Nitrogen soil testing? Thank you.
Yes, timely applications of nitrogen can eliminate red thread. You should talk to you lawn care company to see what they have applied and what they plan to apply. I’d have to assume they’ve been applying nitrogen.
We sell test kits for testing pH and soil nutrient levels but do not perform the tests.
Here’s link to a good fact sheet on red thread:
I never advise poisoning voles since you are also going to poison anything that may feed on the dead vole. This would include cats, dogs, owls, hawks, ravens and other carnivores.
I’d suggest using a repellent like Bonide Mole-Max to drive them from the area. It works quickly.
You can also bait regular mouse traps with peanut butter and place them in the vole pathways and kill them that way.
hi my lawn has turned like hay looking all dried out and has a yellowish white color to it all in the last month while i was away i cant figure out what happenedto it .i cut it just before i went away . wonder if grubs are eating my lawn.there are no extreme bare spots either . can you tell me anything i should know ?any lawn eating diseases that i should know about that could bedestroying my lawn? thank you so much please email me back at email@example.com
It is tricky diagnosing lawn diseases without seeing the problem or knowing whether the lawn is in sun or shade and other environmental conditions. HERE’S a link to an overview of the common lawn diseases.
To me it sounds like you might have an outbreak of Powdery Mildew. This is based on your mention of “yellowish white color”.
If this turns out to be the case, I’d suggest applying Bonide Infuse fungicide using the instructions on the label of the product.
Red thread is a lawn disease
I purchased the Country Estate 4 step lawn care treatment bags. What are the dates/timeframes to apply bag #2, #3 and #4?Thanks
Step 2 or weed and feed should be used now before the weather heats up. HERE’s a link to using weed killers.
Step 3 which is grub control which should be applied in July and watered in heavily. HERE’S a link to all about grub control.
Step 4 is you final lawn feeding of the year and mid to late September is ideal for that application. No special watering is need for that.
Peter, I live in schenectady. Is this the proper time to put down grub control? Im know it has to be watered well. Last year they really did harm to our lawn. Please advise. Thanks as always !
Apply in July when the beetles fly. HERE’S a link to all about that.
Its the beginning of the season, I have raked it, its grown and ready fro it 1st cut, however I haven’t put my weed and feed down yet. Should I hold off cutting it and put it down and wait a few days. or cut it then put the Weed and Feed down??? there are alot of Dandelions also.
Weed killer is absorbed through the leaves of the weeds so mowing it before applying weed killer will decrease the leaf area making the weed killer less effective. Also the weed killer needs to sit on the leaves of the weeds for 24 hours before getting washed off so the showers in the forecast are a problem.
What is the best way to kill clover in my yard without harming my dogs. They both eat grass but the clover has taken over on almost my whole yard.
You’ll need to spray the area with clover with Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer. You’ll need to spray where rain isn’t predicted for a couple of days. The killer needs to sit on the leave of the clover and other weeds for at least 24 hours to work. It kills the roots but is absorbed through the leaves. After the two days, you can water the area heavily which will wash the herbicide into the soil. Since your dogs eat the clover, I’d keep them off the lawn for the week and a half or so that it will take the herbicide to kill the clover.
If it is moss then you’ll need a moss killer. If it is a low growing flower the an liquid weed killer spray should do the job. I need more to go on that what you’ve provided.
I want to put the final installment of my fertilizer (winter prep) on my lawn. I bought the Country Estate brand and I have read the bag but cannot find any advice concerning animals and the effect of the fertilizer on them. Can you please advise.
Lawn food isn’t poisonous to animals which is why you don’t find anything about that on the package.
(Help!) Thanks for all the educational online info. I’m trying to restore a lawn that was neglected for far too long. After recently applying much weed killer, I’m left with many bare spots and some dead grass on a sandy/sunny front lawn in Ballston Lake. The pH level is currently 6.0. I want to apply lime in the next few days (late July) to bring the pH up to 7.0, then plan to scatter seed at about mid-Sept. After reading about making sure to get the lime deep, I’m wondering whether I should just roto-till everything after applying the lime. What would you recommend?If roto-tilling would be best, have you any helpful tips about how to avoid buried cables whose approximate locations are known?Many thanks!
For the lawn, a surface application will be fine especially since your pH is close at 6.0 40 lbs. of pelletized lime per 1,000 sq ft should do the trick. I’d suggest our Super Sandy Grass Seed Blend whether or not you have sandy soil…it is great in any soil. It is a blend of grasses that can put roots 2′ deep into the soil making it very hardy and drought resistant once it is established. Keep the seed moist the entire time it is sprouting and getting established and use a good starter food…the best is our own Country Estate Winterizer/seed starter. Your plan and timing sound good.
Peter, I have a growing patch of yarrow in my front lawn. The previous owner had a flower bed, and had planted this. I thought it would eventually just fade away with time. WRONG! Spreading, and hardy :( Please advise best way to rid lawn of this. I heard I was hard to get rid of. Rotterdam, NY
You can kill yarrow with any good lawn weed killer like the Bonide Weed Beater Ultra that we sell. It is too hot right now to apply it (late July). Wait until mid August when it gets below 80° in the daytime before you use the weed killer. If you spray during hot, dry weather, the weed killer may kill the grass as well. Also make sure that the lawn is well hydrated before you spray since a dry lawn can also be damaged by weed killer. Once you do spray make sure it doesn’t rain within 24 hours of application and don’t water the lawn for at least 24 hours after. Read and follow all the directions on the product’s packaging.
None in stock right now but, if you drop in to any store, they can order as many as you’d like and have them for you in a week.
PeterI have many large maple trees in my yard and under them I have always had grass growing under them till a few years ago. Slowly the grass disappeared and I have tried to grow more grass but no luck. Last year I tilled a few inches with a mantis and tried again but still no luck. The lowest branches are at least 12′ above ground and most of the trees are 14 to 16″ wide at the base. Can you help. ThanksTed Soroka
A couple of things are probably going on. Under maples and other hardwoods, the soil becomes acidic faster than out in the open. I’d suggest doing a pH test to see if this is the case More on pH testing HERE.
The second problem is that Maples have a VERY shallow root system and can draw up enough moisture to actually make the soil too dry for grass to survive. If the area is bare, I’d suggest getting enough topsoil to cover the area with 3″-4″ and then reseed with Hewitt’s shady mix. Keep it moist while it fills in and feed it with our Winterizer/Seed Starter Lawn Food to get it established before summer. Once summer arrives each year you’re going to have to water more under the maples to compensate for the moisture they are taking from the surface.
Hello ~ I awoke this morning to find many 15-20 millimeter holes in the lawn. No soil around mouth of hole. What is it?ThanksRegardsDave B
Probably crows poking holes searching for grubs or earthworms.
I’d give it a couple of days before watering.
I purchased country estates fertilizer #22-0-08, but the directions are very vague. when should I apply it, are there any weather restrictions, and what should I set my rotary spreader at? Thank you!
Straight lawn food (without weed killer or crabgrass preventer) can be applied anytime the lawn needs to be fed…generally spring and late summer/early fall. If your spreader isn’t listed on the bag then consult your spreaders manual and choose the setting that will apply 4 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.
Looking to put milky spores down to start controlling the grubs on my lawn. Is that something you recommend?
yes, the St. Gabriels Milky Spore we sell. You need to apply it twice a year, spring an fall for three years and then it will go on living in your yard for at least 20 years. Make sure to water it in right after application since sunlight can kill it…best to apply and water it in just before dark.
I have two big patches in my lawn where nothing will grow but a little moss and a few weeds. Other sections are OK. One spot is under a tree but the other isn’t. Could there be a problem with the soil?Thanks for your help.Jack G.
All soil gradually becomes more acidic over time. Under trees, this is accelerated due to debris from the tree rotting into the soil. Unless the pH of the soil is checked every few years and corrected, the grass will struggle and moss, which prefers acidic soil, takes hold and chokes out the grass (which prefers neutral soil). Most weeds aren’t too picky about pH so they can thrive there too. HERE’s a link to more on checking and correcting soil pH.
Hi…I put down weed an feed two days ago an I wanted to know how long I need to wait to put down a fungus control down. Thanks
Anytime now…no problem
A week or two is all you need to wait.
my lawn is full of crabgrass and weeds. There is so much more than ever before. We used weed and feed in the spring, but this summer the lawn is a mess. What can we do
To treat for crabgrass, you need to use a well-timed application of crabgrass PREVENTER to stop it from starting. Killing crabgrass once it is up is nearly impossible. More on using crabgrass preventer HERE. Later in late spring (or better yet in September) it is the best time for weed killer. More on properly using weed killer in spring HERE. and in September HERE.
Here’s a link to the product label. It looks like 16 lbs. for 8,000 sq. ft.
I have 3 patches of gray, ash-like substance in my St. Augustine grass. It looks like someone poured the contents of their fireplace ashes on it. I also have some tunnels that may be moles or voles. The patches are very hard and powdery at the same time. I can scrape down to the grass which looks yellow and sparse. Haven’t a clue – do you?
I recently use Bayer Advanced Lawn Weed and Crabgrass killer on my very healthy lawn (perennial rye, tall fescue, red fescue, and bluegrass) About 3 days later there was a brown spot everywhere we used the product. I live in central PA and we have had lots of rain this year. The lawn was thick and healthy. The product said it was safe to use on lawns, but it turn mine brown. What caused this and how can I restore the green.
Weed killers should not be applied when it is hot out…above 80° or so. The weed killer can burn the grass if applied during hot weather. Water the lawn to wash away the weed killer and the lawn may recover. July is a bad time to apply weed killer due to the potential for high temperatures.
No, a lawn that is being properly mowed and watered will never need dethatching.
Peter, our beautiful front lawn has been growing mushrooms on it for the several weeks, every since we got that bout of rain. I bought nitrogen and my husband put that on our lawn, it seemed to cut down on some of them, but he is basically having to mow every day! And not too mention it’s getting embarrassing. There are all different types of mushrooms too, not just one kind. We had a big tree taken down 3 years ago so I’ve done some reading and I believe this would be the culprit. Do you have any other advice to offer us, and will it take several treatments? Thank you very much! Robin & John
There is no treatment for mushrooms. You should check the pH and apply lime if the test indicates a need. Still, mushrooms may show up. The problem is all the wet weather and high humidity. In a dry summer, this wouldn’t be happening. This is beyond your control and not something to be embarrassed about.
Yes, as long as you follow the directions and water it in with an inch of water right after application. Once the watering is done and the lawn dry, the dogs can go right out onto it. If you don’t water it in properly (heavily) the grub control won’t work anyway. More on that HERE.
We just put lime down on our hill. It has rained over the last few days, but not hard. Can we de-thatch and proceed with overseeding (and siduron for crabgrass preventive)?
Yes, you can.
On my front lawn I have some sort of creeping weed. It smells similar to mint and it is multiplying fast…What can I use to get rid of it
You’ll need to wait for a dry spell when conditions are right and spray the clover with Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer. Read and follow the directions on the package.
Can you rephrase the question? I have no idea what you are asking. If you mean that you mowed the lawn with a mulching mower and there are clippings…you don’t need to do anything. They will break down naturally and become part of the soil over time.
Hi I just bought a house and the front lawn is covered In moss. What can I do to get rid of the moss and get grass to grow?
Assuming you don’t like the moss, the first thing you’ll need to do is rake all the moss up and get rid of it. We can assume, due to the presence of moss, that the soil has become too acidic for grass to thrive so you need to apply limestone to counteract it. So, the next step is to do a pH test to determine how acidic the soil is so you can determine how much limestone is needed. More on how to do a pH test HERE. The next step is to get some good grass seed down and start watering and watering and watering to get it up and growing. This will be difficult during the long, hot, dry days of summer and would be best done in mid-August through mid-September. In fact, you may want to delay the entire project until then and live with the moss until then. More on starting a lawn from seed HERE.
You’ll need to wait for a dry spell when conditions are right and spray the clover with Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer. Read and follow the directions on the package.
I have started a new section of grass. I used your Country Estate seed for sun. The grass is growing but very little, only about 1″ high and not really green, sort of light green and slightly yellow. I was wondering if it’s poor soil or it needs like Miracle Grow sprayer or what?
Continue to keep it moist and feed it right away with Country Estate Seed Starter/Winterizer.
The front of our yard is a steep hill that butts to the highway. It is very hard to mow so we are trying to come up with a solution of plants to start planting on there after killing the grass/weeds currently on there. We had seen daylilies planted like that as part of the landscape for the Adirondack Trust at the intersection of Rt 50 and Gick Rd. We are also considering creeping phox maybe… Our concern is what the effect might be as the highway department maintains the roads in the winter with salt and the damage it may or may not cause. Do you have any suggestions as to what we can do? Our current set up is very hard to maintain. We have sandy soil on one end and clay on the rest. Thank you for your time and help.
I guess I’ll start with the obvious solution…stop mowing and let it become meadow. If you are looking for a more ornamental solution HERE’S a list of salt tolerant plants for your situation. This is from Minnesota so the climate is essentially the same.
No, all crabgrass preventer does is prevent all seeds from sprouting or germinating. Plants coming from an already established root system are not affected.
When should I fertilize my lawn for the first time?Should I use a crabgrass killer at the same time?When should I use a moss kill?Does lime help “kill” moss?
You can feed your lawn anytime but I’d suggest waiting until it is greening up on its own. This insures that the soil is warm enough for the lawn to take advantage of the food. If you want to use a lawn food/crabgrass preventer combo product then you’ll need to wait until the lilacs are just starting to flower to apply that. More on that HERE. Moss likes acid soil so ongoing pH testing an lime applications will help keep moss from getting started but, once it has, lime can’t kill it. More on pH testing HERE. Here’s a link to more on using moss control…something that should be done in the cooler days of late April/early May,
I aerated and overseeded this past labor day weekend, 9/1/14. I used the Country Estate mix with Ryegrass, two types of fescue and Kentucky Bluegrass (I think it was the Sturdy Mix). This particular area had been hurt by snow mold and a lot of voids were created that resulted in crabgrass over about a third of this particular area. I pulled a lot of it to create room for new seed prior to aeration. I’ve been watering three times a day since (for a minimum of 20 minutes each time). Some grass has definitely come up (the Rye did right away) and there is certainly an improvement, but many of voids and bare spots are still somewhat bare, with just a blade or two of grass here and there. It’s now 10/2/14 and I was hoping for a slightly better result. I put some starter fertilizer down right away and we also have a lawn care company who put some more down a couple of weeks later. The beginning of September was unseasonably cool, but warmer weather has happened in the last couple of weeks. Could this have something to do with a delay in germination? How long does it take to see the full result of fall overseeding? I’m hoping the moderate amount of new grass germinated is taking good root and spreading underground preparing to wow me next year!
All the seed you put down should have sprouted by now. It sounds like you watered it plenty…possibly so much that the seed floated around into some areas leaving others without seed. Hopefully the lawn care company didn’t use any weed killer with the lawn food application as that will kill young grass as well. In either case that was way more feeding than necessary. You can over seed the area in spring in late April or early May is it still seems sparse. The small plants you see now will each become a much larger patch of grass as they mature.
I have grub worms in my Bermuda lawn…..I put medicine down yesterday afternoon and we had a big thunderstorm last night….I am afraid the rain washed the granules away. What do you think??
I think that, if you had watered it in yourself right after application with an inch of water with your sprinkler as you are supposed to, then the grub killer would have been down in the soil already and the heavy rain couldn’t have washed it away.
Vole damage occurs under the snow in winter. An October applications of MoleMax may minimize the damage but not completely over a long winter with deep snow such as we just had. A spring application of Mole Max has long since worn off by the following fall.
I have an accu green drop spreader. According to the instructions on the bag of Country Estates Winterizer I should use a setting of 4.5. It doesn’t seem that this applied anything to my lawn. Is this setting correct?
I’m not familiar with the setting on that spreader. Your CE lawn food should be applied at the rate of 4 lbs./ 1,000 sq. ft. The instruction manual that came with the spreader should give you a setting for that rate.
I live in Colonie and my hard has become all sand, what do I have to do to be able to grow grass. I would like to order hundreds of yards of top soil. Would this work.
You can grow a lawn in sand but it will take lots of regular watering. Start with Hewitt’s Sandy grass seed. This is a blend of tall fescue grass that are fine bladed but have a deep root system. Keep the seed constantly moist while it is germinating…NEVER let it dry out, not for a minute. Once it is up and growing, Feed it with our Starter Lawn Food. Keep it well watered all summer and feed it again in September. Don’t mow it any shorter than 4″-5″ this entire summer while it is getting a root system established.
Hi Peter. There is a lot of talk these days about endophytes in grass seed which are said to improve grasses for draught resistance and insect control. Do the Hewitt’s grass seeds contain endophytes? Are they present in the seeds naturally,or are they added to the blends
We have some blends with endophytes added. They are usually present to some degree in most soils though.
Cornell Co-operative Extension will, for a small fee, do a complete soil test for you. You’ll want to contact you county’s extension service. http://www.cce.cornell.edu/Pages/Default.aspx
The best way is with mole repellent…HERE’S A LINK to a blog post all about mole control.
Hi Peter,I was doing a spring feeding with Country Estate Lawn Food this past weekend on my established lawn, and I also used it on a new area of lawn that I had just seeded (I prepped with peat moss and top soil raked thoroughly into our sandy soil). Will the no phosphorus content in the Lawn Food damage the new seed? I realize now I should have used the Country Estate Winterizer on that new area…. Thanks!
No the regular food won’t harm the seed at all. The Winterizer/Seed Starter would have benefitted the new grass more though. You can apply the Winterizer/Seed Starter about a month after you applied the regular lawn food for an extra boost then nothing more…except LOTS of water…until late summer/early fall.
I want to rototill my lawn .. I live in Arizona and the temperature is 115 .. If I rototill my lawn in July will my lawn grow back ?? Do I need to seed it ?? Or should I wait till spring? I want to have a nice looking lawn for May of nex year !!
I’d suggest that you contact a local garden center to ask this question. I can’t imagine that the lawn will survive getting rototilled in July with 115° heat though. A local garden center can advise you on when the best time to reseed depending on where you are in Arizona.
How do I get rid of weeds that are going in the middle of my salvia plant, along with that, there are tons of bees surrounding it?
You’ll need to pull the weeds. If the bees are a problem, you’ll need to pull the weeds after the sun has set when the bees are all in for the night.
I put down the first bag ( grass preventer etc) you recommend on Sunday. Unfortunately it hasn’t rained yet. How long do I have?
The crabgrass won’t be sprouting until we get some rain so everything is fine. The rain will dissolve the crab preventer and cause the crabgrass seeds to attempt to sprout at the same time and will be killed when they do.
Gras can grow around pine trees but often struggle because pine trees make the soil acidic more quickly than other areas of your yard. A simple pH test will determine if that is happening and how much lime you need to apply to correct the soil pH to the level (7.0) that grass prefers. HERE’S a link to more on pH testing.
Hi Peter,What is the best fertilizer to use in early fall and then again in late fall?Thankfirstname.lastname@example.org
Country Estate Lawn Food. One application between now and the end of the first week of Oct is all you’ll need. Let the lawn rest after that without excess stimulation from another feeding. Late feeding stimulates late growth that is more susceptible to damage from freezing. Feed now then let the lawn rest.
Good evening. Does Hewitt’s still carry the Nematode spray for the end of a hose? My daughter has pets and her lawn is being dug up by the neighborhood skunk and moles. I assume she must have grubs. When is a good time of year to treat this problem?
No, nematodes have been found to be ineffective in controlling grubs this far north. Her best be is to apply Milky Spore, a non-chemical control 2 time a year for 2 years starting now. Make sure to water it in with an inch of water right after applying the product. We do sell milky Spore at Hewitts.
Hi Peter. Last summer my lawn, which for years has been quite well shaded and in clay soil (Rexford), seemed to dry out and turn almost white – looked like hay. This occurred during very hot weather and while we had some trees removed from the yard – which now gives the lawn more sun. We tested the soil and applied lime to raise the pH – but it didn’t seem to help. Now that the snow is melted, there’s been no improvement. Most of the front lawn looks like matted down dead hay! Any ideas what this may be or how I can find out what it is?
The types of turf grass types that grow in shade will have a hard time in full sun. I’d suggest overseeding right away with something more suited for full sun…something like our Sandy Grass seed blend. It is the best for sand or clay…difficult soils. You’ll need to keep the area moist constantly by watering lightly once or twice a day (when it doesn’t rain.for the next month while the new grass gets established and, when it sprouts, feed it with a good starter lawn food like our Winterizer/Seed Starter Food.
I have grubs and crabgrass in my lawn. Should I treat the grubs first and then the crabgrass? Thanks.
It is currently too cold to treat for either. Once the lawn greens up and seems to be growing, that will be the time to treat for the grubs…grubs you should have treated for last July. Apply 24 Hour grub control and water it in with 1″ of water (yes a LOT of water) them apply Season Long Grub Control in July and water that in with an inch of water. Without the heavy watering, neither of these grub killers will work. Then treat every July to kill the grubs as they hatch. More on that HERE.
Likewise it is too early to apply crabgrass preventer. Learn how to time your crabgrass preventer HERE.
There is no problem using grub control a crabgrass preventer within a few days of each other.
The roots on our lawns rate very shallow. When the dog runs he skuffs up pieces of the lawn. The lawn has always been like this. Tried fertilizers last year but this spring same problem. What can we do to solve this problem.
About the only thing you could try would be to introduce a deeper rooted type of grass like tall fescue…this is our Hewitt’s Sandy mix. Of course you’ll have to keep the dog off the area for a few weeks while the grass get itself rooted in and established.
We have a large patch of lawn where our little dog urinated during winter. What is the best way to green that back up and get it healthy again? It is so unsightly and not merely a small “spot.” Thanks for any advice.
If the area doesn’t green up when the weather warms, you’ll need to rough up the area and reseed. Id suggest our Sandy blend (whether the area is sandy or not) for a good durable lawn. keep it well watered, never letting the seed dry out until it a well established section of lawn.
Very early in the morning so the water can soak in instead of evaporating away in the heat of the day. This also lets the lawn dry out during the day so it doesn’t have wet blades overnight. Wet blades are the perfect place for fungal diseases to take hold. When you water, water heavily. You lawn needs an inch of water a week all at one time..more on that HERE.
I have bent grass on my lawn and want to know the best way to get rid of it and if after getting rid of it should I put down sod? Do you actually do this work and if so how much?
You’ll need to kill the bentgrass with Round-up spray and till the area before the sod goes down. Sorry, we don’t do landscaping or lawn work.
middle to late summer last year grubs than moles took over the lawn, the planting beds and did a lot of damage. How and when do I treat the lawn and planting areas to get rid of the grubs/moles? Jmjoe6151@gmail.com
As you have found out, getting rid of the grubs doesn’t automatically get rid of the moles since they eat earthworms as well. You should apply MoleMax now and then in September then every September so you don’t have therm every spring. More on Mole control HERE.
Grub treatment should be applied in July followed immediately by getting watered in with 1″ of water…a very heavy watering. If it isn’t watered in, it doesn’t work…this is where most people screw it up. Don’t think rain or walking around spraying the lawn is enough…it isn’t. More on grub control HERE.
Hewitt’s Shady Blend of grass seed…needs no direct sun at all. All winter hardy perennial grass seed in the blend.
My entire back yard is crab grass. What do I have to do to get a decent looking lawn. We have sandy soil. Thank you!
I’d suggest seeding the area with a good grass seed now. Water constantly to get the seed to sprout among the crabgrass. Then, in spring, apply crabgrass preventer at the right time to stop the crabgrass from returning.
I have a weed that I haven’t found on the internet, and I have no idea what it is, and what would kill it, is there any way you could identify, it for me?Thank you, Carolyn
Call the nearest Hewitts and find out when the manager will be there and bring in a sample for them. They can then suggest option for killing it. If you can send a good picture and description of it and where it is growing to email@example.com I’d be happy to assist.
It isn’t critical like it is with grub control but it won’t start feeding the lawn until it is. You don’t NEED to but it would be a good idea to.
No, not a good idea since the grub control needs to be watered in with 1″ of water and weed killer need to sit on the leaves of the weeds for at least 24 to 48 hours to work before it gets washed off. Id apply the grub control first then do the heavy watering. While the lawn is still wet from that watering, apply the weed killer. This will help the granules stick to the leaves. If you are using liquid weed killer, you can apply it anytime the nighttime temps are 50° reliable and when rain isn’t expected for at least 24 hours after application.
The best time to apply crabgrass preventer is when the forsythia flowers are falling to the ground which is the same time as the first lilac flowers are cracking open. keep an eye on those shrubs and your timing will always be correct…more on that HERE.
Now that the snow is melting I’m seeing clumps of dead grass in piles on my lawn in some area, that resemble grass clippings from a lawnmower. Most of the areas are where large piles of snow were made from the snowplow. Below that the soil looks relatively bare, in these areas but that could be because it’s only March. Is this fairly typical? Should new grass come out in these areas once spring finally springs?
Plow damage..pretty commom. If the grass has been scraped off with the roots attached then those bare areas won’t come back. I go through this every spring. Once things thaw out, move the sheets of sod that the plow scraped up back to the bare area and lay them flat to cover the bare area. It will start growing again as soon as the weather warms up…grass is pretty tough. If there are still some bare areas left, just sprinkle some grass seed on those area to fill in. You can do this any time now…cold and freezing won’t harm grass seed.
Moss can grow in sun or shade (there’s more than one kind of moss). What happens over time is that the soil gradually becomes acidic and, if you don’t do pH test and add the correct amount of lime to counteract it, the grass struggles (grass needs pH neutral (7.0)soil to thrive) and starts to die leaving bare spots. Moss, which thrives in acidic soil then starts and creates acidity at an even faster rate so the grass retreats and the moss takes over. Regular pH testing and lime applications would have prevented this. More on that HERE.
Now that the moss is established, you need to kill it with moss killer. Once the moss is dead, rake it out and do your soil pH test (easy) and apply the amount of lime the test indicates you need. Reseed the area (no problems with lime and grass seed together) and keep it moist until the grass is established. Test the soil again in fall to see how you did correcting the pH and apply more lime then if needed. Check the pH every couple of years to prevent his from happening again.
We have three dogs and our grass in the yard needs some serious help. We have a lot of brown spots. Can you recommend anything???
Where the dogs pee the urine is so concentrated that it kills the grass. If you see them pee and you soak the area with a couple of gallons of water right away, the urine will be diluted and not harm the grass. The dead spots will need to be roughed up with a rake and reseeded or replaced with sod.
When it warms up a bit, apply a moss killer to the area according to the directions on the package. Once the moss is dead, rake it all out to expose the soil. Next, do a pH test and apply the amount of pelletized lime that the test indicates to get the soil to a pH of 7.0 (neutral). The reason to moss got started is because the soil was never checked and lime never applied. Put down grass seed to fill in the area and keep it moist until the seed sprouts and then apply a starter lawn food to the area. In early fall, check the pH of the soil again to make sure you lime application in spring got the pH to 7.0…apply more lime then if necessary. Check the pH every couple of years and apply lime as necessary to keep the soil pH at neutral (7.0).
Good Morning. We have thatched the lawn and now wonder what comes next. Seed the bald spots, Grub control or Fertalizer with crab grass control…. Help…. Desperate for a pretty lawn.
If you need to seed, then that would be next followed by frequent watering the area so the seed will sprout. It cannot be allow to dry out at all until the grass seed is up and growing. Then feed it with a good starter lawn food. If you are putting seed down then you must NOT use regular crabgrass preventer since that will also prevent your lawn seeds from growing. There is a crabgrass preventer that will stop the crabgrass but not your grass seed…ask for that at Hewitts and they will direct you to the proper product. Grub control should go on in July of every year. Here’s some links that might help you.
I have huge broadleaf plantain infestation. How do I get rid of it? There are too many to pull by hand.
The same way you kill dandelions. HERE’s a link to a post about the proper time for weed killer applications…the same rules for plantain.
I am spreading Bonide grub and insect killer on my lawn. what settings would i set my spreader, which is a Swisher 10272. The manufacture recomends 1.2 to 1.8 lbs. per 1000 square feet of lawn.
Your owners manual for thjat spreader will give you setting for spreading a material (in this case grub killer) at 1.5 per 1000 sq. ft. You grub control should actually be applied in July, not now…WAAAAY too early to do anything at all. More on grub control HERE.
Hi Peter,Is it too late (September 13th) to kill grubs this year? Should I just wait until next summer? Thanks for your advice!
This late in the season you’ll have to resort to the contact killer from Bayer called 24 hour Grub Control. Apply it and water right after with 1″ of water…don’t count on rain, it wont be enough. Next year apply Bonide Annual Grub Control in July and water that in with an inch of water. It is more effective that the contact killer and is a safer chemical to use.
Now that the snow is gone there are holes all over my lawn. They are about the size of a half dollar. What are they from?
Voles or chipmunks. Once the ground thaws out, apply Mole-Max to repel them out of your lawn.
When it warms up a bit, apply a moss killer to the area according to the directions on the package. Once the moss is dead, rake it all out to expose the soil. Next, do a pH test and apply the amount of pelletized lime that the test indicates to get the soil to a pH of 7.0 (neutral). The reason to moss got started is because the soil was never checked and lime never applied. Put down grass seed to fill in the area and keep it moist until the seed sprouts and then apply a starter lawn food to the area. In early fall, check the pH of the soil again to make sure you lime application in spring got the pH to 7.0…apply more lime then if necessary. Check the pH every couple of years and apply lime as necessary to keep the soil pH at neutral (7.0).
Peter, I live in Schoharie, is it too early to apply the crabgrass preventer? You talked about the forsythia bush…are they in bloom yet?Thanks for your feed back…love your comments on tv.
Chances are that it is still too early in Schoharie (4/20/15) The forsythias should start blooming this week but you need to wait until the end of the flowering cycle to apply your crabgrass preventer More on that HERE.
It depends on the light. My favorites are Hewitt’s Sandy (regardless if you have sany soil…it is great in clay soils too) for areas with full sun to as little as 30% sun. For total shade then it would be Hewitt’s Shady Blend. These are blends of the types of seed best for this area (including Perth). Blends are the way to go.
Our lawn is being dug up at record speed – skunks feeding on grubs. Will using a product like Grubex (problem areas are close to our well) contaminate the well? If so, are there other natural products which are safer?
The first step is to apply some Mole-Max repellent to the area. Skunks or any other rodents won’t go near the area. You’ll want to apply Milky Spore to the area and water it in with a full inch of water twice a year for three years (Spring and September). After that the disease will reproduce itself in the soil and lasts for at least 20 years. None of this will affect you well. HERE’S a link to more on grub control and ANOTHER on Mole Max.
Crabgrass is an annual; so the plants that are encroaching now will die over winter. A well timed application of crabgrass preventer in spring will stop any crabgrass seeds that the plants dropped from sprouting. HERE’S more on that.
HERE’S A LINK to a blog post all about late fall/winter lawn seeding…called “dormant overseeding”.
Ooops. Probably not. You’ll need to reseed in about 3 weeks or so once several heavy rains have washed away the vinegar.
what’s the best way to get rid of bent grass? i have an area of about 3′ x 10′ of it in my front lawn
You’ll need to kill the bentgrass with Round-up spray and till the area before starting grass from seed or laying down sod.
plant 1 was not watered and left in the dark.plant 2 was watered and was left in the lightplant 3 was watered and was left in dark which of these plant will be healthiest after two weeks
Depends on what the plant was…or 127, Pick whichever answer you like.
We are fairly new to working with a lawn, and while we recognize there are some issues with ours, we don’t know what we should be doing to it and the timeline in which we should be these things. We have crabgrass and dandelions, as well as grubs and a few bare patches. Plus, we’d just like to have a full, green, beautiful lawn! Can you provide a first-timer’s guide to fixing a neglected yard – maybe even with a calendar for applications? Thank you!
Here are some links to blog post that should help you get a handle on lawn care through out the season.
These are in order from spring through fall.
It looks like something has gone crazy under my lawn .With tracks about 2″ wide with no grass on. Is something eating the grass roots?
If the tracks are under the lawn in the soil as you say, then it is probably moles. If these tracks are on the surface and have only become obvious since the snow has melted then it is voles. Either way, an application of Mole0Max rodent repellent will chase either pest out of the area. Neither of these critters eat grass roots though. The voles might have nibbled the blades off but the roots are fine and the grass will grow back quickly. Moles don’t eat plants, just earthworms and soil grubs.
No…it feeds the lawn and kills weeds not bugs.
You can feed the lawn but it is too early 4/17/15) to apply crabgrass preventer or weed killer More on that HERE.
Is it a good time now to apply lawn food plus crabgrass preventer? And any restrictions? Ex. After rain, before rain, wind, etc.
It is still too early for crabgrass preventer (4/17)…HERE’S a link to all you need to know about timing your crabgrass preventer.
Joe, you are at the ragged edge of being too late. Apply it this week (8/18) and water it in right after application with 1″ of water…don’t even think rain will do the job for you…it won’t. It is best to apply in mid-late July.
Iron (or ferrous) sulfate is the active ingredient in many lawn moss control so the answer is “yes”. This will not correct the conditions that allowed the moss to take hold so there is more you need to do to get your lawn to thrive in that area or the moss will bounce right back.
You’ll need to do a pH test to see how much lime you need to counteract the acidity that has built up in the soil. HERE’S a link about pH testing. You’ll need to rake out the dead moss and then put down some grass seed to crowd out any moss that attempts to re-establish itself in the area. This is the perfect time to start grass from seed. HERE’S a link to more on that.
Mow the lawn taller to discourage it but to wipe it out you’ll need to spray it with a clover killer like Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer
It is too late in the season to start grass seed. If it gets partially sprouted and then freezes, it dies. You might try dormant seeding as described HERE. Otherwise wait until May and put your seed down then. More on that HERE. Covering the seed with straw helps keep the sun and wind from drying out the seed. Grass seed needs to be kept moist constantly to germinate.
The Country Estate Lawn (22-0-8) would be perfect.
Up until the first frost if need be.
I have a lawn full of crabgrass and weeds. I just moved in & don’t know how to fix my lawn to just have green grass.
I do lawn care seminars in spring so that’s the best way. In the meantime, here’s some links that will give you the basics:
A very common lawn weed: http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/creeping-charlie/
I just planted fescue grass seeds approximately 3 weeks ago. It has sprouted however there are hundreds of little insects (for lack of better term), crawling throughout the soil. I will describe them like this: light brownish, wings that fold over their backs. They are very annoying and gross! How do I combat this infestation and WHAT are they?
It is impossible to tell you what they are without a better description or picture. Any contact killer will kill them though. Insecticidal soap or Neem Oil will do the trick.
suppose mushrooms appeared repeatedly in only one small part of your yard. what would this indicate about the soil in that area?
It probably means that there is the slowly decaying root system in the soil in that area…possibly from a tree that was cut down in that area sometime in the past.
I live in Albany and have sandy soil. Long needle pine, silver maple and red maple in the from yard…..How can I revive my grass w/o using chemicals?
The first step is to do a pH test to determine the need for limestone to get the soil to the correct pH for grass. More on that HERE. If the pH is acidic, which is likely with all those hardwoods and pines in your yard, the grass will struggle. This is a great time to apply lime if needed so it will have all winter to neutralize the acidity. You’ll need to add grass seed either now for DORMANT SEEDING, or in the spring using THIS METHOD.
Peter,I just had my lawn aerated and Monday my lawn guy will be overseeding for the winter. I have been using the Hewitt’s Country Estate lawn care and I love it but I need to know if I can put down the last step Country Estate Winterizing after the overseeding??
Country Estate Winterizer/Seed Starter would be the perfect thing to help the grass seed get established before winter…that and plenty of water.
I attended one of Peter’s lawn seminars in May. He suggested September as the best time to kill young weeds. Does he have aRecommended product to use that will allow us to winterize our lawn soon too?
This would be a great time to put the lawn to bed with a last application of lawn food. It is also a great time to use weed killers so you won’t have weeds next spring. Just make sure to water the lawn heavily the day before you apply weed killer since weed killer can kill the grass is the soil is very dry when you apply weed killer. Here’s a blog post all about late summer/early fall weed control.
Do you recommend any organic lawn fertilizer. I was told to use something with seaweed and fish meal ? Do you carry it
We have seaweed and fish meal plant foods but not for the lawn. We do sell Espoma Organic high quality lawn food. You can read about that HERE.
Hi Pete,When should I seed my lawn to thicken it up for next year? When is the last date to apply winterizer? Thanks.
It is too late to get a lawn started from seed but too early for dormant seeding…more on that HERE.
By law, I can only recommend our Winterizer/See Starter Lawn Food be applied to newly seeded lawns or lawns that test low for phosphorus…you will have to make that determination yourself. Having said that, the final feeding with the appropriate food, should be made right away so the lawn can use the food and then go dormant. Feeding later than this will stimulate the lawn right as it should be going dormant. Fresh root growth too late in the season can be killed by freezing rendering the last feeding pointless.
I live behind Hewitts in Guilderland. Today is 10/12/15. Is it too late for me to aerate and overseed now that I see temps overnight are expected to be below freezing
Go ahead and aerate if you need to but, at this point, you may want to wait and do “dormant overseeding” which you can learn more about HERE.
Hi, We live in Delmar with sandy soil and our lawn which is slightly sloped facing south is really looking bad with many large bare spots. I did a soil test on these and it registered 8…the few grass areas left registered about 7. The recommendation was to add sulfur and water in. Will the bag give me a chart as to spreader setting and how much to buy to lower the ph?? Does it make sense to you that this is so high in sandy soil? Thanks
If you have been regularly applying lime without checking the pH then you could have driven the pH (alkalinity) up. Honestly, 8 isn’t that bad and, given time, it will gradually come down. The bag will tell you how much to apply and the instruction manual will tell you what setting to use. I’d not bother since it will come down over time anyway and it isn’t hugely off. A better investment might be dormant overseeding with our Sandy Grass Seed Blend to introduce grass types that will thrive in sand. Follow this up with an application of starter food in the spring (but NO Crabgrass preventer). HERE’S A LINK to more on dormant overseeding.
Real long isn’t ideal since it will mat down over winter. Matted grass is a good place for fungal diseases like snow mold to start. 4″ is a good final height for the lawn when it goes dormant in fall.
Awhile back you did a segment on moles. Speading something down in the fall so that in the spring they would be gone. What is it that I should spread? thanks
HERE’s all you need to know about moles
I live in Geyser Crest Saratoga Springs, the soil is very sandy my yard looks like crap, would you have any suggestions for me on how to improve what little grass I have and grow some in the areas where it isn’t ?
The first step is to get a handle on the pH to create conditions that grass can thrive in. More on that HERE. Then you’ll likely need to get some grass seed going…use our Sandy Grass Seed Blend…there is none that even comes close for quality grass in sand. HERE’s more on growing a lawn from seed. In sand, watering extra is necessary so make sure you do that correctly. More on that HERE. While you’re getting the lawn restored, you’ll need to feed aggressively…probably 3-4 times. Make sure to use a high quality food like out Country Estate brand made just for local conditions with nutrients and micro-nutrients that you don’t find in any other brands.
Our turf rotted so we laid seed which came on lovely then in the winter it all rotted again would it be something in the soil
Probably not in the soil. perhaps you are watering it too much. If you were soaking it every day and never letting it dry out and breathe, it may be that you are drowning the grass.
The only “pencil tree” I know of is a tropical plant. This isn’t something that grows in our area (USDA hardiness zone 5). If you have suckers popping up in your yard from nearby trees like Locust trees then rototilling will do no good.
I have moles tunneling and poping up in mounds of dirt all spring-fall.How can I kill them or force them away???
It is a little too early to do anything about them now, but when you see fresh damage in April Mole-Max can be very effective when used properly. More on that HERE.
I have a recurring problem with moles in my lawn. What can I do in early spring to prevent and eliminate the problem.
There is no permanent solution to moles. The best way to keep them away is to apply MoleMax Mole repellent in September. More on Mole Control HERE.
It would be best not to. In any event, it is illegal to apply any lawn food in New York State until April 1st or after. Applied too early, before the lawn has thawed out and started to grow is a waste since the grass plants can’t use it.
Hi Peter;Late last fall we noticed small mounds of dirt appearing in our dooryard need the area of our leach field. we assume that we moles. I understand that a reason for having them is that they are looking for grubs. What do you recommend for getting rid of the grubs so the moles will vacate and hopefully not come back.ThanksBonnie
It sounds like moles alright. Moles do eat grubs but they also eat earthworms so it is possible to have a mole problem even though you don’t have many, or any grubs. Getting rid of whatever grubs you have won’t get rid of the moles. There is no way to get rid of moles “for good”. Annual treatments with MoleMax mole repellent is the best approach. HERE’S a link all about moles and how to best discourage them.
It will take repeated applications of Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer once temperatures at night are above 45°, generally late May/early June.
with the nice weather, thinking about lawn care; for example: when should grub killer go down…how about seed; looking to sell home starting in April/May but would like to replant front lawn to enhance look.
Grub control should be applied in July so that is off the table. You could put down a fast growing blend of perennials rye anytime now but, by NYS law, lawn food will have to wait until after 4/1. HERE’S a link to starting a lawn from seed….it is from fall but the procedure is the same for spring….other than waiting until after 4/1 for the starter food.
Crabgrass Preventer should be applied when the bright yellow forsythia flowers are beginning to fall to the ground…Probably 6 weeks or so from now (3/9). Applied too early, it won’t work. No lawn food may be applied before 4/1 according to NYS law. Here’s a link all about crabgrass preventer application timing.
We applied our early spring pretty emergent and feeding on the lawn. Now it will freeze. Does it have to be redone?
Wow, you really jumped the gun. Feeding the lawn before it greens up and starts growing is a waste and also illegal…applying lawn food in NYS is illegal before 4/1. Most of the food will be washed away and into the waterways with spring rain…which is why it is illegal. The crabgrass preventer won’t work because the chemical will be broken down and long gone by the time the crabgrass seeds begin to sprout. You were about a month early HERE’S A LINK to help you understand how to time your crabgrass preventer application. Yes, it will need to be redone at the proper time.
There is no “main root”. They spread from multiple runners and each little plant has its own root system. Once established, each little plant sends out its own runners to spread.
No, Miracle0Gro needs to be diluted in water as per the directions on the package. Throwing the granules around by hand is a bad idea.
I read your lawn care brochure-excellent, thanks! However, all I saw regarding grass planting was in the fall. I have some bare areas that need attention this spring. When is the best time to start that process?
You can start anytime but, with a cold snap on the way, there is no rush. It looks like late April will be fine this year. HERE’S a link to a blog post about grass seed starting. It was for September seeding but the procedure is the same for spring seeding.
Every spring my lawn includes a 10 square foot patch of grass that is much taller and greener than the rest of the lawn. Although not at a low point, this patch is also much more full of moisture than the rest of the lawn. The taller grass is almost perfectly tubular, resembling green thin spaghetti. First mowing is difficult because of the moisture, but by the second mowing all obvious evidence of this condition is gone. Any ideas?
It sounds like Nutsedge…tough to get rid of. Here’s a link to the label of the product we sell to kill it.
Here’s a link all about mole control…you can get rid of them for awhile…timnig is everything
Can I use — Scotts 10000-sq ft Turf Builder with Moss Control Spring Lawn Fertilizer near my Well and it won’t harm the Well water?
As long as you follow the direction on the package, it will be fine
I live in Clifton Park we had lots of leaves come down in the fall. My grass has died off and I am wondering if I need to put lime down to sweeten the soil. Does Hewitts sell soil testing kits to see what is wrong with my Soil
We do sell soil test kits and you should do a pH test so you’ll know how much lime to apply. HERE’S a link to a post on pH testing. Adding some grass seed to the area in late April will help it fill in.
Yes, crabgrass preventer needs to be dissolved to work. However, it is too early for it to be applied. Applied too early, it is broken down and gone by the time the crabgrass seeds are sprouting HERE’S a link all about Applying Crabgrass Preventer and, later on, weed and feed.
Do you sell a crabgrass preventative with either Dimension or Barricade? Also, do you have a grass see that is a northeast blend that has something like Kentucky Blue/perennial rye/red fescue?
For Crabgrass preventers we have Pendimethalin ((Scott’s Halts), Mesotrione (in Scotts Starter Lawn plus crabgrass preventer for new seedings) and Prodiamine (in County Estate Lawn food plus Crabgrass Preventer. Our “Sturdy” grass seed blend is the closest to what you are looking for…it also has some turf quality tall fescue in the blend.
Hi Peter. I purchased some Country Estate Crabgrass preventer lawn fertilizer last weekend. I have a Lesco Commercial Plus spreader. Can you please advise me of the correct setting to use for this fertilizer. Thanks!RM
Check your spreader manual but the CE Crabgrass Preventer needs to be applied at 4 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. and it looks like your spreader should be set at 28 to spread at that rate according to this information I found online.
Because it is so cool this year, you still have time….last year it would have been too late due to early heat. Get it down in the next week or so and it will be fine. Crabgrass Preventer can still prevent crabgrass after it has sprouted up until the point that it has developed 2-3 blades.
All lawn foods are safe for dogs when applied as directed. You’ll want to keep the dogs off the lawn for a few days if you apply a weed killer (like a weed & feed or weed killer spray). Once the weed killer has been washed into the soil by rain or watering then the dogs can go back onto the lawn. Dogs should also be kept off the lawn after insecticide applications…all of this is outlined on the packaging of the product so read and understand that before using. If you want to choose an organic lawn food, we carry the best…Espoma. Again…plain lawn food without additives like weed killer are perfectly save for dogs when applied according to the direction on the package..
Crabgrass preventer yes..just lightly. Weed killer no.
Yes, we have that…It a Scotts product…just ask for it at the garden center.
Honestly I have no idea. We don’t sell that product and don’t have St Augustine lawns this far north. it looks like it is a spray seeding product so, from what I can find online, it doesn’t look like you’d want to mix other grass types with your St Augustine lawn. This would be a good question to ask the person you are buying the product from.
Peter,I heard the weatherman the other night say that the forsythias might not bloom due to the warm weather and then snow storm and cold weather that ensued. So my question is we always buy the country estate 4 step and step 1 requires the forsythias to be in bloom because the crab grass germinates about the same time but if they don’t bloom then when should we put down step 1. thanks,Liz
It depends on where you live of course. Watch for the first lilac flowers to open and apply it then. If you are in the Albany Basin then the last week of April/first week of May should be fine. Putting it on too soon is a problem…a little late isn’t Crabgrass preventer will still kill the crabgrass even after it has germinated up to the point that it has grown 3 blades.
First of all you applied it about 3 weeks too early for our area so it wouldn’t have worked anyway since it is too cold. Since it has been so cold, there is little chance that it will burn but the solution is water and lots of it.
Our front and back lawns are mostly covered with moss with patches of grass. Is there someway of getting rid of all the moss?
You’ll need to apply moss killer to kill the moss, then do a soil pH test to see how much lime to apply to get the soil back to neutral. This acid soil is the reason the moss is thriving and the grass is dying. You can apply lime and grass seed to help the grass reclaim the area. Do another pH test in the fall to see if the lime you applied did the job. HERE A LINK to a post about how to do a PH test.
What is the best spreader setting to use when applying pelletized lime purchased from Hewitts using a scotts turf builder edge deluxe when applying it at a rate of 1,000 sg ft a bag
A setting of 12 should get you the coverage you want.
I have a tree in front lawn with exposed roots. I know it is from soil erosion. But I want to cover the exposed roots. Should I chose a mulch with large pieces, pine straw, wood chips, or bark chips?
You could use a couple of inches of soil or bark mulch to cover them…no problem. Just don’t pile it up against the trunk of the tree.
What do you use to “feed” Kentucky Bluegrass seed. I have already fertilized my lawn last Autumn and get direct sun. Mine died lase summer by the end of August.
Country Estate Lawn Food.
Do you sell Kentucky Bluegrass seed? I have direct sun where I want to put it. I fertilized my lawn last November. Is there anything else I nee to do to enhance the grass seed?
We do although I’m not a huge fan of Kentucky Blue. Shallow rooted so not drought tolerant and and needs to be watered frequently during summer. Look for our Sandy Grass Seed Blend. Fine bladed tall fescues for root 2′ deep. Grows well in full sun al the way down to 30% sun.
My nieghbors turn straw color in the winter and spring it turns back thick and green what kind of grass is this
Probably one of the old “Midnight” strain of bluegrass…fell out of favor because of this straw lawn effect.
We don’t sell that product but I’d suggest following the directions on the label. This would be a good question for the people at the place where you purchased it. We sell Bonide Annual Grub Beater which should be put down and watered in with a full inch of water during the second two weeks of July. Applied properly and watered in immediately after application Grub Beater will kill over 90% of the grubs that hatch during August and early September. One application every July is all that is needed. HERE’S a link to more on grub control.
You’ll need stronger Weed killer for clover. Bonide Chickweed and Clover Killer is just the thing. Read and follow the direction on the label.
I have a lot of clover in my lawn and it spread a little more every year. What can I use to get rid of it. I want to use something that’s safe for animals/birds and the environment. Thanks!
For clover you’ll need Chickweed and Clover Killer. Only spray a small area at a time to limit its exposure to birds. Keep kids and pets off the area for a few days after application as well. There is no organic lawn weed killer. There is an organic weed PREVNTER, Corn Gluten Granules, that will stop the spread from seeds but it won’t kill the existing plants.
We carry a wide selection of organic products. Any product, organic or otherwise is only safe if it is used in the manner described on the packaging. There is no “organic” weed killer.
No such thing yet. we carry organic Espoma Lawn food but the best you can get for weeds is Corn Gluten Weed Preventer. It stops weed seeds (or any seeds) from germinating but won’t actually kill existing weeds. The only “organic” way to get rid of weeds is to dig them out.
Which spreader setting should I use on my Scott’s Deluxe Edgeguard spreader for Country Estate winterizer seed starter?Thanks,John Schmidt
Hi,I want to regrade my yard. What’s rhe best way to deal with the existing lawn? I have a tractor with a 5 ft tiller attachment. I’m thinking I’ll just shallow till a few times at the end of the summer and then regrade and plant. Is that a good way to go? Dave
Sounds like a plan
A half strength feeding of a higher nitrogen lawn food.
That are pretty fragile when that small so mowing them should kill them…any lawn weed killer spray will also kill them…follow the directions on the container.
I’m looking to buy sod. Half of my yard is dirt and the other half is green grass. Should I get sod for the whole yard or just what is needed? I would need about 1500 sq ft of sod, how much would that be?
If you want the grass to match up, you’ll have to sod the whole area. It looks like you’ll need 150 of our 10sq. ft. rolls. For between 120-300 rolls, we charge $4.49 per roll.
Hi. Peter:We enjoy your TV6 spots.My Question is when setting the seed bed height for a new lawn, say next to a cement driveway, sidewalk or patio, how far below the noted surfaces should the soil grass seed bed be, so that when the grass develops, the grass base is close to the level of the side walk, drive or patio surface. I am trying to avoid the step up or down ,,, stumble factor if possible.Thanks for your. RSVPSincerely,Richard in Springfield Center, NY
About an inch. Once the grass is established, it should be thick enough to avoid the “trip factor” ending up essentially flush with the cement driveway.
Lawn weed killer like Weed Beater Ultra will kill them. Follow the directions on the label. If applied when temperatures are above 85° to 90° or when the lawn is very dry, the weed killer may also kill the grass. This project is best done in May or September.
Peter, I live in Guilderland. What is the best grass seed for sun & shade in our area ? I also have a small, approx. 6×10′, corner that is always shaded – should I use just a shade grass for that area ?
Sun and shade mixes are just a “shotgun” approach…just a bunch of different grasses thrown in a bag…in sun some will grow and in shade, others will…a very wasteful approach. You’d be best with a blend of grass that are known to thrive in shade. We have just the blend for that and it is called Country Estate Shady Grass Seed Blend. All grass types picked for their ability to thrive in shade here in our area…nothing generic about it!
Something is making many holes in our lawn. They are holes that looks like an animal has dug them. We have at least 23-50 holes, what is making these holes? How can we solve our problem.
It sounds like skunk damage. They like to eat the Japanese Beetle larvae (grubs) that hatch in the lawn this time of year. A well timed and watered-in application of Grub Beater in July would have prevented this. You can apply Mole-Max repellent to the area and that will keep the skunks away through fall. More on how to control grubs HERE.
I have several brown(dead) spots on my front lawn.Back lawn is perfect.What is the problem and cure for these spots?
I could be anything from chinch bugs to a fungal disease. The best thing is to bring pictures or even a sample of the area where the grass is damaged to the garden center for a better ID of the problem. You can send me pictures at firstname.lastname@example.org
Hello,For the first time in 9 years, moles have dug into my lawn. Their tunnels originate along a fence on my neighbor’s property and extend in a wishbone formation. I attempted to use mole repellent to no avail. Anything you can recommend at this point? Thank you.
Mole-Max should work buts needs to be watered in to work. I prefer the granular Mole-Max followed by watering in for 20 minutes or so. The next step will be poisonous bait.
Have a small lawn less than 5000 square feet. My soil tested at 6.0 for acidity. My lawn company says I need more lime. I would prefer to buy it myself and apply it. How much and how often? Live in Clifton Park, 12965
6.0 isn’t too bad. To get it to 7.0, which is what lawns prefer, you’ll need to apply 40 lbs. of pelletized lime per 1,000 sq. ft. Since you have 5,000 sq. ft. that would be 5-40 lb. bags. You shouldn’t nee to apply lime again for 4-5 years after this. Lime can be applied any time of the year…it will take several weeks to correct the pH. Here’s a link to more on pH testing and lime applications.
Well, you can but it won’t work…it needs to go down right as the crabgrass is about to sprout in spring. Here’s a link to explain how to time your crabgrass preventer application.from this last spring
when it says not to spray when temp is above 85 degrees, does that mean at the time you spray or the entire day
You don’t want to apply weed killer spray to that lawn went the temperature is going to be 85° or above at any time during the several days after the application or it can kill the grass in addition to the weeds. The lawn should also be well hydrated (moist soil) during that period as well. When the grass is dehydrated, the weed killer can damage or kill it as well. The best time to go after weeds is September when the soil is cooler and moisture but it is warm enough for the weeds to be killed. More on late summer weed killer HERE.
my sod does not look good ,there for a while it was beautiful. do not know what to do about it I do not know if I am watering to much or if it needs fertilizer or what. who can I call to get an expert opinion
It is pretty hard to overwater sod…how long and how frequently are you watering it? Feeding during the high heat of summer in going to do more harm than good. You want to let sod stay tall while it gets a root system established…like 5″ tall and mow no lower than 3.5″. This helps keep the roots from dying in hot soil…the longer blades provide shade for the shallow roots below. You can call any of our stores for advice…HERE are their phone #s or email me at email@example.com.
Peter I have taken your classes and find them the best and very knowledgeable My Question is I have put down a pre emergent for crabgrass and now i have crabgrass on my lawn –Crabgrass grows at a rapid rate should I kill the crabgrass or wait and put a post then the pre emergent on in the spring.Thanks Claude
At this late date, Id skip any treatment now and do a well timed application in spring. Chances are some of the crabgrass has already dropped seed. Any crabgrass killer won’t “kill” the seeds so they’d be sprouting in the spring anyway. Don’t apply too early in spring too as I mentioned in my spring class…HERE’s a reminder why.
Hi PeterI live off of New Scotland Ave in Albany. I have been using the Scott’s Lawn Care products, along with Grubax. My back lawn has become very spotty and dead looking in patches. Is there anything I can do to bring it back to life? Should I be using a different lawn care product. Thank you.
We don’t sell GrubEx so you might want to ask the folks where you bought it about how and when to use it. HERE’S a link to grub control using the products we do sell. The best approach IMO is to use Milky Spore grub control which you can read about through the link I provided above. Scott’s lawn food is just OK so I’d suggest you look into something better like our Country Estate Lawn Food line for lawn foods that are made in NY and we have ours blended to match the needs of lawns here in our area. Now through mid September would be a good time to add get some seed down to help thicken up the lawn. Often people ignore the pH of the soil and the grass suffers because of soil acidity…which is very easy to correct. HERE’S link to more on pH correction and late summer lawn seeding.
can I apply of my 1st treatment of st gabriel organics milky spore in mid-august in new england? if so, when would I apply future treatments?
Mid to late August would be perfect since that is when the hatch begins. Apply again in mid to late May. After 3 years of this, you’re all set. The most important thing to remember is that Milky Spore needs to be watered-in immediately after application or it dies and won’t work. It is also light sensitive (light kills it) so the ideal situation would be to apply your Milky Spore right at dusk and water it in then with an inch of water…you can use a tuna fish or cat food tin to measure the water. Don’t count on rain to do the job. Every minute it is exposed and not washed into the soil diminishes the effectiveness.
I am looking for something to kill the crabgrass that is not harmful to my cats. What would you suggest. I have a very small area of grass and half is crab grass by the middle of August
There are crabgrass killer sprays that you can use on crabgrass but they aren’t reliably effective and not organic. You best approach will be a crabgrass preventer applied at the right time in spring. The “right time” can vary though. Your organic option will be corn gluten. HERE’S a link to more on crabgrass preventers and how to time you spring application.
Obnoxious vine weed in my grass. It has oblong small leaves with a brown oblong spot in middle of leaf
It sounds like spotted spurge. A good liquid lawn weed control will kill it easily and this (September) is a great time to kill weed in the lawn…More on that HERE.
After a good rain or long watering has washed the weed killer off the leaves and into the soil.
If it is just plain lawn food then you can water it or just wait for rain to do it.
I did spread lime!!! Is it too late for apply grub preventor now??? I live in Otsego County Zone 3. Thanks
You could start a Milky Spore program now but traditional chemical grub control should’ve been applied and watered in in July. More on that HERE.
Fruits and Berries (43)
Raspberries and blackberries produce fruit on 2 year old canes (stems/shoots). If you go look at your berry bushes, you’ll see the remains of the the canes that produced berries this year. Those cane grew last year and produced fruit this summer. They will look dried out and less vigorous. You’ll also see the new canes that grew over this summer. These are the canes that will flower and produce fruit next year so you don’t want to prune them off. Pruning can be done anytime after the fruiting period so go right ahead and prune of the old canes (the ones that made berries this year) since they will never make another berry. This is the annual cycle with blackberries and raspberries…always removing the canes that just finished making berries but leaving the fresh canes that will make berries next year.
We want to plant Blueberry Bushes … We have trenches sixteen inches deep and sixteen inches wide dug. We believe we have to fill them with a mix of sand, peat moss and sulfur … is this so and how much of each? Please make sure that Peter Bowden understands how much he is appreciated on the Channel six segments he has done for years. M. A. Albrecht
Dear M. A. Thank you for the kind words. It is nice to be appreciated. It sounds like you are off to a good start. The sand will improve drainage while the peat moss will retain moisture. As far as how much sulfer to ad, that will depend on what the pH of the native soil is in the area you want to plant. You’ll need to perform a simple pH test. You can get a pH test kit at Hewitts and it is a very simple task ifyou follow the directions on the package. Make sure you use distilled water though since tapwater of bottle water have a pH value of their own and this will skew the test results. Here’s a link to an excellent website that will answer your question and many other you might have regarding blueberry culture. http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1422.html Have a great harvest! PeterB
Thanks for your question Joe, At Hewitt’s, we sell a product made by Bonide called Weedbeater Plus Crabgrass and Broadleaf Weed Killer. Follow the directions on the package and you’ll wipe out the nutsedge as well as some other unwanted weeds without harming the grass. Never apply weed killers when temperatures are expected to go above 85° or it may burn the lawn. September is a great time for weed killing.
thinking ahead to next year! I have a strawberry bed and last summer chipmunks ate the berries faster than I could pick them.What can I do to keep them out of the bed. Thanks
Thanks for your question Pat, I’d suggest a perimeter barrier of the granular repellent Repells All form Bonide. Apply the barrier whent eh strawberries are in flower and re-apply every couple of weeks through the harvest period. By starting early the chipmunks will learn to avoid that area and will be less tempted to cross the barrier when the fruit finally appears. Peter Bowden
what is the best way to prepare my soil. It is sandy. also 3 years in a row my tomato plants have grown very very tall and spindly with few tomatoes. What am i doing?
Sandy soil has very little nutritional value and dries quickly. Add lots of composted manure to the soil and I’d also get a bag of Espoma Tomato-Tone food. and be generous with that (according to the label of course). You say that the tomatoes “have grown very very tall and spindly with few tomatoes”. This is usually the result of trying to grow tomatoes without enough sun. Tomatoes need 8 hours of direct sun per day MINIMUM. 10 or 12 hours is even better. Perhaps you need to grow your tomatoes in a sunnier location?
Peter, you did a show on channel six how to plant blueberry brushes. Could you send me that link. You allways do a wonderful job on your segments
HERE’S a link to a blog post about proper planting. I’m planting a dogwood tree but the procedure is the same for blueberries or any woody tree or shrub.
Raspberries are quite durable. If I had to pick the absolute best time to transplant some, it would be in spring as soon as the ground thaws enough to dig. Late fall after they are sent into dormancy by a few freezing nights would be my second choice. Anytime while they are dormant. really.
There are several varieties that are good in our area. We stock North Star (tart), Bing (sweet), Black Tartarian (sweet) and Montmorency (tart). Remember, you need another tart cherry variety to pollinate a tart cherry and different sweet cherry to pollinate a sweet cherry variety.
How do I make my HUGE poinsetta turn red? It is all green at this time. Also how do I get the christmas cactus to bloom. It blooms in the back room that is cool and not in the warm livingroom.
Both Christmas cactus and poinsettias are triggered into their flowering phase by the shorter day length. They need to follow the natural cycle of sunlight in October for the change to occur. The lights in your living room are preventing these two plants from getting the message the sun is sending them. Move them into the back room and make sure there are no lights on in that room for more than a few moments. Once you see that the cactus is budding or that the poinsettia’s leaves have started to change color, you can bring them back to the living room to enjoy. Once the change starts, it will continue regardless of the light.
My pears on the tree are big yellowish with brownish dots and hard. When should i pick them? Will a frost harm them? Thanks.
Sounds like you have some nice pears. The brownish dots are nothing to worry about…they can be avoided by using a fruit tree spray every 2 weeks during the growing season but the spots are harmless and common on organically grown pears. I go ahead an harvest them. A light frost probably won’t harm them but a freeze will. They will finish ripening just fine inside the house.
Hello Peter, I have a small strawberry patch (8′ X 3′). Do i need to use straw to cover the plants? I prefer not to get a bale of straw for such a small area. Thanks.
You can rake some leaves over your strawberries to protect them. Another choice would be some evergreen boughs which might stay in place better than leaves.
I want to plant either a Burbank Plum or Bing Cherry tree. Can either fruit tree be planted in two’s to pollinate each other or do both need a different variety to pollinate each other?
Bing Cherry and Burbank plums will not pollinate each other. Bing Cherry tree will need another sweet cherry tree to pollinate it. Black Tartarian wouldbe a good choice to pollinate Bing. Sour cherry varieties will not pollinate sweet cherry types. Burbank Plums can actually pollinate themselves or from another plum variety planted nearby.
I have trees that want to grow with my raspberries, and after years of cutting the shoots down, I still have some four-inch stumps that continue to widen, and launch troublesome shoots that quickly reach 8 feet tall in a few months if they are not continually cut. The trees are next to raspberry plants and peonies, and in window wells. I live in St Paul, Minnesota. I purchased Bonide Stump-out Stump and Vine Killer in liquid form, and was going to brush it on the stumps but I am concerned that even if executed perfectly, my raspberries may be inedible or harmed.
Sadly as stated on the package, Stump-Out should NOT be used in your raspberry growing area or near any other food crops.
Except for peaches and nectarines most other fruit trees require another for cross pollination. Here’s a great fruit tree cross pollination guide for you to refer to.
Yes we do but please call the Hewitt’s location before you visit to confirm that they still have some available since the selection may vary by location.
My raspberries last year had a lot of tiny white worms in them. How can I prevent them from coming this year? Thank you. CF
I sounds like you’ve got some Spotted Wing Drosophila, a fruit fly type insect. The worms are the larvae od of the fly. Start spraying before they show up with Spinosad, and organic insecticide. We sell the Bonide version called Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew. Just follow the directions on the package. Start right away as they are attracted to ripe berries.
Yes, but wait until a couple of frosts nip the leaves and send the plants into dormancy…usually mid October or so.
Dear Mr. Bowden,I hate to bother you and know that you are very busy, but I had a few questions concerning my newly acquired raspberry plants (my first time raising virtually anything on my own) that I was hoping to please ask you if you had a moment to spare. I have two varieties (Heritage red everbearing, and Fall Gold everbearing raspberries), and I selected the ones with the nicest buds and some green shoots already starting to develop. As of right now, they are still in their white bag within the box. Some of the leaves are turning slightly brown, though still appear to be healthy. Would this be because perhaps they are too dry, too moist (as I imagine the container they are in holds in moisture), or they are running low on their reserves and should be given a supplement considering I don’t know how well along they were in the nursery (something low in, or without nitrogen right now?)…or perhaps it could be any of these causes, if that is not normal coloration? Overall, since it may be a few more weeks before they can go into the ground, what would you recommend care wise while they are still developing? Thank you very much for your time and I look forward to hearing from you soon. Sincerely,Cody Himelrick, J.D.
It sounds like they are drowning. Keep them in a cool location to slow them down and water the sparingly. No need to feed them until planting time (early/mid May after frosts are done). I’d mix some Espoma Bio-Tone starter food into the planting holes…that’s all they need for the first year.
Have always wanted a cherry tree for my yard and wondered if there is a variety that would be best for our area?
There are several varieties that are good in our area. We stock North Star (tart), Bing (sweet), Black Tartarian (sweet) and Montmorency (tart). Remember, you need another tart cherry variety to pollinate a tart cherry and different sweet cherry to pollinate a sweet cherry variety.
We have older apple trees (est 15 yrs) that produced very heavily in 2013, blossomed in spring of 2014 and produced only a handful of apples. The very same thing happened to our pear trees. The variety of apples and pears are unknown. Any suggestions? Truly appreciate your assistance. JudyC
I can think of three possibilities.
It got hit by a late frost or freeze while it was flowering.
The bees in your area have disappeared and the flowers aren’t getting pollinated.
It got sprayed with an insecticide while it was in flower which can prevent fruit formation (as well as killing the bees that were trying to pollinate it).
Hi Peter. I am going to put together a raised bed for strawberries. What would you recommend to use as a good soil mixture? I hear so many different ideas .
There are great soils like Pro-Mix that come in bales but this can get pricey id they are large raised beds…I’d give the folks at Saratoga Sod a call and tell them what you project is…they now sell large bags of black soil…perhaps that to fill the boxes and they lighten up the top 6″ with Pro-Mix and Bio-Tone Starter Food
I have been looking at the possibility of planting 4-in-1 fruit trees, apple, pear and cherry. What is your opinion on these types of trees, yay or nay? If I do plant them, would I need more than one for pollination or, since they are 4-in-1, will them pollinate themselves?
Some fruit trees are self pollinating so, hopefully the varieties that were chosen to be grafted to make this 4 in 1 are self pollinating. If you can find out what varieties are on the tree, you could look that up.
I recently purchased a Blueray Blueberry small plant from Hewitt’s. The company that packages them is called The Netherland Bulb Company. On the package it states that it should be planted in moist, humus rich, acidic soil, in full to partial shade however everywhere Ive read states that this plant needs partial to full sun and not shade. Do you have any advice?
Blueberries can grow in full sun but don’t need a full day of sun 6 to 8 hours is best. I’d not plant it in full shade though. I think they missed a word on the package.
Peter – Really enjoyed your talk at East Greenbush and learned a lot about organic solutions. Forgot to ask – would Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Spray be useful to combat the borers in my blueberry bushes? Thanks!
There are a couple of borers that can affect blueberries. The flathead borers which have no spray that can control them. There are some cultural steps you can take to minimize the damage. HERE’S a link to information on that. and another LINK that may be helpful.
If they are tip borers then a pyrethrin spray (pyrethrein is found in the Bon-Neen product we sell) can be helpful. HERE’S a link to more on tip borers.
I planted a strawberry bed this spring. Is it ok to put down fabric weed barrier to keep the strawberries off the ground and from rotting?
Yes you can and you might consider some straw on the fabric. for the berries to rest on…that’s how they got their name after all.
Hi,I recently saw you advertise a bug killer for strawberries. My leaves are being eaten by something but I cannot see what it is. Can you advise a chemical to use?thank you,Elaine
Damage to strawberries by slugs is common. they come out at night to feed on the leaves and fruit but hide in the daytime so you don’t see them. We sell Slug Magic, an organic slug killer. Sprinkle some little piles around your strawberry patch and the slugs will disappear…like magic.
No, just lemon trees
My Early Girl tomato plants have developed leaf curl. They are planted in same garden as Sweet 100 plus which are healthy. The soil is a 1:1:1 mix of new humus, manure and top soil from Hewitts and is mulched with cedar mulch from Hewitt’s. . I planted an Early Girl in a large pot using Promix at my father’s house. His Early Girl has leaf curl also!
I live in Ballston Spa where the soil is very, very sandy. Our lawn even has wild strawberries growing on it. I’m looking for a fruit bush or tree that would do well in this climate and soil. We have everything from full sun, to shady, though the shady area is under some pines so the soil tends to be a bit acidic there. I intend this as a gift to my husband for our fourth wedding anniversary (fruit).Thank you,Gina
Everything about your question makes me want to scream “BLUEBERRIES!!!” Blueberries like acidic soil and like sun but don’t need full sun all day to thrive. They aren’t picky about soil but are well suited for sandy soil. Blueberries aren’t prone to insect or disease problems so there won’t be a lot of spraying necessary as there is with fruit trees. They have lovely white flowers in the spring and the leaves turn red in the fall…what’s not to love? Can you tell I love blueberries. We still have a nice selection too and they can be planted anytime.
Well, we don’t sell that brand so I can’t say for sure (perhaps ask the folks at Walmart), but the pelletized lime that we do sell is fine for use around edible plants.
what is the correct fertilizer and time to apply for raspberries.Also will cutting them back after the first harvest allow for a second harvest in one season
Raspberries should be fed in smid spring (May/early June) . For an organic food, I’d suggest Espoma Bio-Tone mixed into the soil around each plant. Raspberries produce one crop. each year you’ll see two types of canes, the ones that will flower and produce berries and those that just grow but don’t flower. After the berries have been harvested, the canes that produced them should be cut to the ground. Leave any canes that didn’t produce flowers. They are the canes that will flower during their second year and then they get cut away. in other words, cut away all post berry canes…they will never bear berries again but leave non fruiting canes for the next years crop.
I was wondering when and what type of fertilizer for my raspberries. Aso should I cut my plants back after they produce the first time?
Raspberries should be fed in smid spring (May/early June) . For an organic food, I’d suggest Espoma Bio-Tone mixed into the soil around each plant. Raspberries produce one crop. each year you’ll see two types of canes, the ones that will flower and produce berries and those that just grow but don’t flower. After the berries have been harvested, the canes that produced them should be cut to the ground. Leave any canes that didn’t produce flowers. They are the canes that will flower during their second year and then they get cut away. in other words, cut away all post berry canes…they will never bear berries again but leave non fruiting canes for the next years crop.
Sounds like you need a stake or tomato cage.
Are there particular raspberry and/or blueberry varieties you could recommend for a berry beginner? We’re in Delmar.
Blueberries are the best for beginners…or anyone. They are easy to grow and are adaptable to a wide variety of condition and require minimal pruning. We sell blueberries from Virginia Berry Farm and their website has all the information you need.
Choose the raspberries that you like the flavor of. Ours again come from Virginia Berry Farm. HERE’S A LIST of what we’ll be offering and you’ll find how to care for your berries HERE…an excellent resource.
Black *raspberry* (NOT blackberry) canes were given to me for hubby to transplant last fall. Yikes! They are still out in the yard **in the pots**! Online info says they are probably dead due to freezing roots and/or lack of water. I know they are a hardy berry. Do I try to bring them back (if so, how) or do I just throw them on the compost pile? Pls tell me u sell these…all I can find is blackberry bushes around here. Thx.
I’d plant it right away…you have nothing to lose by trying…they are pretty tough. We have a nice selection of blackberries and raspberries but no black raspberries.
Hi Peter! I have an elderberry bush doing poorly this year, about half of it started leaf blossoms and then they just stopped…looks dead or severly stalled out.The other half is doing much better but I have noticed some new growth branch tips going limp. I’ve had the plant for 3 or more years now and it gets sun at least the first Half of the day. Any thoughts?
It sounds like verticillium wilt…not good. HERE’S a link to more on that. No chemical treatment. Make sure that mulch hasn’t been piled against the stem of the plant. Getting some Bio-tone food into the soil may also enhance the plant’s ability to fend off the disease.
We sell small, bare root gooseberries in March but they’ve sold out now. Try us again earlier next year or start calling other sources.
Trees and Shrubs (372)
I’ve bought and planted a hydrangea about 3 years agon. It has never bloomed. I moved and replanted it at the end of last summer to a sunnier spot b/c I thought that was the problem. Still hasn’t bloomed. Any suggestions?
Hydrangeas and other woody plants take some time to get established. Now that you’ve moved it, I’d leave it where it is for a few more years. I always suggest adding bone meal to the planting hole to provide a slowly available source of phosphorus that lasts for several years. Phosphorus stimulates root growth to get you hydrangea established and also enhance its ability to flower. In addition I’d feed it with Espoma Flower-tone as soon as the ground can be worked in spring and again about 8 weeks later. This agressive (but gentle) feeding will hasten establishment of a good root system and shorten the time until the plant can spare the energy for a flowering cycle.
We bought a house a few years ago and never paid any attention to the perennials and shrubs until now. We have 4 HUGE rhododendron bushes that do well every year, despite no care given. Since I’d like to attempt gardening, was wondering ab out some basic care: when is it ok to prune them? What type of mulch is the best to put around them? If they need fertilizer, what type? Thanks!
Thanks for your question Jen. It’s great that your rhododenrons are doing well on their own. That tells us that they are planted in a location that suits them and that’s half the battle right there. You should prune them right after they flower in spring. Rhododendron, azaleas and other broadleaf evergreens form their flowers buds during the summer and fall. Those buds must winter over and then open in spring. If you prune them late in the season, you’ll be removing the flowers you wish to enjoy. As always follow the pruning rules of 1/3. Never prune off more than 1/3 of the branch structure. Usually that isn’t necessary but if it is, prune it partway back then wait a year to do more. It is also a good idea to snip off the remnants of the flowers in spring. If you remove the seed pods then the energy the rhodos would have put into those seeds will go instead into more flowers the following spring. I like cedar mulch but and good bark mulch will be fine. You can mulch 4″ deep but make sure that you don’t pile mulch up against the trunk. That can smother the bark and cause more harm than good. I really like Espoma Holly-tone. It is a granular food that you should apply as early in the spring as you can. I like to pound hole with a small length of pipe down about 8″ and then pour the Holly-tone down the holes. That gets the food to the roots that can absorb it. You’ll need several holes and they should be made out away from the trunk of the Rhodo about as far as the outermost branch tips. Scattering the food on the mulch is wasteful since the nutrients have a hard time making it through the mulch into the soil where the roots are.
Hi there. I bought my lilac tree from Hewitt’s in 2007 (I think. I’m still looking for the receipt.) It was blooming when I bought/planted it, but it has not bloomed again. It’s growing, and is full of lush green leaves, but no blooms. What am I doing wrong?? Help! THanks.
A lilac may not flower while it is establishing a roots system. Once that is done it can expend the extra energy on flowering. A lack of sun and phosphorus can slow down this process. Feed your lilac each spring with Flower-Tone by pounding holes out away from the trunk and pour the Flower-tone into those holes. Do this in several place around the lilac so more roots can find and use the food. If you have been pruning your lilac in summer you have been cutting off the buds for the next season’s flowers. Lilacs form the buds for next spring’s flowers this summer. Always prune your lilac in spring right after flowering so the buds form on new growth. If it is planted in shade then it may never flower.
Click here for a blog post that will give you step-by-step planting instructions for your cherry tree or any other tree or shrub for that matter.
This last winter was colder, windier and longer than normal. This was rough on broadleaf evergreens like holly and rhododendron. At this point all you can do is cut off all the dead leaves. Bend the small branches and, if they are brittle and snap easily cut them back to where you find living tissue. You should feed them with Holly-Tone in the soil below (this should be done every year). To stimulate some quick leaf growth you can use some Mir-Acid soluble evergreen food. Mix with water in a watering can as the package directs. Sprinkle this food all over the stems and remaining leaves. This food can be absorbed directly into the plant without having to come up through the root system. It is an emergency method of feeding and, if they is any life left to the plant, this will stimulate quick leaf growth. Do this every week and a half until mid-June. Also make sure you haven’t piled mulch up against the base of the tree. This smothers the bark and slowly kills it. Mulch is good but not against the bark of the plants, any plants.
I heard there was a segment on television a couple of weeks ago about putting cardboard down underneath the mulch for landscaping – bushes, etc. to prevent weeds from coming through. Is this true? We are planning on removing some bushes from the front of our house and need to replace the mulch. I’d like to know the best and most effective way of preventing the weeds. Please advise. Thanks,Darlene
Here’s a link to the topic that went with the segment….it works great!
I’m looking for a non flowering green shrub for in front of my house to replace an arborvitae that has gotten to large. It should be about 2 ft wide and would like it to stay under 4 ft in height. Any suggestions? I’ve seen these twisty looking things with tiny leaves but can’t seem to find out what they are. Thanks for your input. Paula
You are probably thinking of corylus contorta. It can get larger than you want but isn’t particularly fast growing in out region. You can control the size with annual pruning. Another option would be the weeping varieties of Japanese Maples which stay small and isn’t fast growing at all. We have both in our nursery…come check them out and you may find others that fulfill your requirements.
Can you tell me if lilac bushes have to be pruned? They didn’t bloom this year on the same branches that they did last year. If i cut off the old dead flowers will it kill them or make them bloom there next yr. It was there when I bought my house 4 yrs. ago. It is about 7ft. tall. & just as wide. I would say it is pretty old.
No, pruning off the old, dead flowers (that have become seed pods by now) won’t hurt the lilac. A better time to do this would be right after the flowers finish up in spring. This prevents the lilac from putting any energy into producing seeds and that energy will then be put into growth and more flowers the following season. Since we know that you have an old large, well-established lilac, it may be time to rejuvenate it with some heavy pruning. You’re going to need a pruning saw for this. You probably have some very large, older trunks coming out of the middle of the lilac that are not producing many flowers. These older trunks may be 10 or 20 years old and no longer have the vitality to produce flowers the way they used to. Get in there and cut them off as close to the base as possible. Make sure that you don’t remove more than 1/3 of the total branch structure to avoid shocking the plant. Remove all these older trunks and the energy that they were using will now go into younger shoots that will produce the most flowers. Ideally you should have done this in spring right after the lilac bloomed. Lilacs form buds in the summer after flowering. Those latent buds winter over and produce flowers in spring. If you had pruned the lilac this spring, you’d have lots of new growth with buds ready to go. There’s nothing wrong with cutting your lilac back now but you won’t get the big benefit until the spring after next. People are often shy about pruning heavily but, as in this case, it is the best way to get the most out of your lilac. Once you remove the old, unproductive trunks, it will be several year before you need to do anything more than light pruning.
Thanks for your question Dave, Different types iof hydrangeas get pruned at different times. The best I can do issteer you to this great site. It will help you determine what type of hydrangea you vae and how to prune it. http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/pruning.html
Yes it can but do it as soon as possible. Transplanting is best done when the plant is dormant. Lucky for you the weather is still quite cool and your hydrangea is still dormant. To reduce transplant shock have the hole where it is to go dug and ready. Dig up the hydrangea with as large a root ball as possible to keep as many of the fine root hairs intact. Make sure to use some bone meal in the planting hole. Water in thououghly and keep well watered this entire season.
It appears that my PJM rhodies got some winter burn – the tips of some of the leaves turned brown but are still pliable (not brittle). What can I do about this if anything? Could it be something else? Also, how do I get them to fill in better? This will be the third season they are in the ground and haven’t grown or filled in very much. They normally flower rather well though.
Winter burn is pretty common on rhodos…especially after a windy winter like the one we just had. Those leaves are nipped forever but will be masked by new growth this spring. Any that are totally brown can be removed any time. A burlap barrier on the north west side over winter can help prevent this in the future. It takes a while for shrubs to get established and yours has only been in the ground for 2 seasons so it is still getting settled in. You should feed your rhodos (indeed all your landscape plants) as soon in spring as the ground can be worked (right now). For the rhodos use Espoma Holly-Tone. Pound holes out away from the trunk as far as the outermost branch tips and pour a small handful of food into the hole and poke it shut. Do this in several places around the shrub. Throwing food down on the surface is easier but mostly benefits weeds. Get the food down to the roots and it will work better. Deadheading will also help the PJM fill out and flower more. After the flowers have finished, pinch off the seed pods that begin to develop after the petals fall off. The rhodo will put a great deal of energy into these seeds. By removing the seeds, you are redirecting that energy into leaf growth and flower buds for the next season’s show. You can also do any light pruning right after flowering. If you haven’t been feeding and deadheading try that first. It should be enough to get them to start filling. Try that for a season before you resort to pruning.
Hello, We recently moved into a house that has had bamboo growing for about 30 years. Last spring we dug up the stalks that took up a 10′ x 20′ area. As the summer came around we continued to pluck what ever bamboo came up. And it still continues to come up. It’s very frustrating. My husband did some investigating and found that it takes a very long time to get rid of bamboo and the only way to do it is to keep cutting the stems as the come up because it will exhaust the roots. Is this true? Do you have any advise for us? Thanks, Kristin
I’ll assume that you’re dealing with ‘false bamboo’ aka Japanese Knotweed. This is a former ornamental that will eventually take over the world. I also moved into a house that had the bed one whole side of the house filled with that stuff. We cut it back for a couple of years hoping that that would kill it but it didn’t. What finally did work was covering the area with a plastic tarp 4 layers thick. I actually used an old pool cover that I found by the side of the road. We made sure that the area was covered right up to the house and out about a foot beyond where the knotweed was growing. We then covered the tarp with a thick layer of cedar mulch so we wouldn’t have to look at the tarp. We left it all summer and the next spring I peeked under only to find weak shoots still trying to grow. We left it covered for another summer. Finally, after two years it seems to be dead. We removed the tarps and dug around. We found a few weak roots that we removed and planted the bed with perennials. Every once in a while a shoot would pop up but we’d dig it out rather than just snapping it off….gotta get those roots. Now, several years later, we seem to have finally won our battle. There are weed killers that will kill it and sterilize the soil for two years but we were afraid that it would get into the roots of some nearby shrubs and kill them too so we went the tarp and mulch route. Be diligent and patient and you get it gone.
I have a few rose plants, which we planted on the east side of my home, that are approximately 20 years old.They started out small and manageable and we put a trellis behind them, up close to the house for them to grow on…I didn’t think they were climbing roses but, the branches & canes now somewhat resemble a climbing rose plant…From a second story window frame, several years ago, I attached fishing line down to the longer canes to help support them because they were bending over, due to their weight, beyond the trellis.They always produce lots of roses when the first bloom occurs.The canes, have never been taken care of or pruned properly, because I was afraid to damage or kill the rose plants…we just let the canes grow and as a result, when the roses bloom, they seem to have more beautiful flowering every year. However, the canes are now extremely long and out of control…some, are approximately 10 to 12 feet long and have outgrown the trellis……(Also, usually every year, sometime after the middle of the summer, a good portion of the leaves seem to yellow and fall off….but, that, might be another issue…) I’ve been told that the best time to prune roses, is in the spring, before they start to grow and flower.I’m looking for some expert advice on how to prune my roses so they continue to be/or become healthy/healthier…I’m concerned that because the canes are so long, if I prune too much off, they will die…Can you offer any advice?Thank you.
Yikes…those are some large roses. They are probably getting leggy since they get mostly morning sun but not a lot of the stronger afternoon sun. I’d get out there now and do some aggressive pruning…like about 1/3 of the total branch structure…to get them back under control. That way the new growth will be lower and branch sideways. you can also do pruning in season to keep it under control. Roses respond well to pruning. Get to your initial pruning soon so the new growth goes where you want and it will set buds for flowering on the new growth…expect more flowers due to the pruning you’re about to do.
The best time to feed these and other woody shrubs is as soon as the ground thaws and can be worked in spring. If you use Espoma’s Holly-tone or Flower-tone youe could feed againg 8 to 10 weeks later. Feeding is pretty much done for the season by early summer except for annuals that can be fed as long as the weather is warm. Other than on the lawn, I don’t suggest fall feeding. Shrubs, trees and perennials need to wind down with the season and late feeding can stimulate fresh growth that is more easily damaged by frost. Your last feeding for the woody shrubs you mention should be no later than the end of June.
What kind of tree would you recommend for tall, fast growing, privacy in zone 3-4? I’ve searched online and found a Willow Hybrid but didn’t know if any local nurseries carried this.
A great tree for this purpose would be the Canadian Hemlock. As an evergreen hemlocks will provide privacy year round and can handle the cold of zone 3. Naturally they’ll follow their instinct and try to grow into a tree but pruning the top will force it to branch out and go wide instead of tall. Gradually let it get to the height you want and then trim the top every other year or so to keep it low and bushy. Hemlocks are widely available.
our endless summer hydrangea stopped blooming in the third year. what can we do to get them to bloom?
Thanks for your question Charles. There are a couple of things that can prevent ES hydrangeas from blooming. Lack of enough direct sun. In our area (Albany NY) you’d want to get at least 7 hours of direct sun per day during summer. Even more is better. It is claimed that they will do well in ‘partial shade’. That may be true in the southern US but, up here in the north, they will flower better with more sun. If your hydrangea grew lush, large leaves but no flowers then it probably isn’t getting enough sun. Not getting fed. Hyrdrangeas don’t need a lot of food but, especially in sandy soils, they do need some. Espoma Flower-Tone would be a nice, gentle option. Don’t feed it now but as early in the spring as the soil can be worked. Without knowing the conditions your hydrangea is planted in I can only offer those possibilities. Here’s a great site that might help your sort out what has gone wrong. http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/
I would like to purchase a Rose of Sharon. When will this item be available at the Western Ave. location? Also with regard to lawn: What seed would be most appropriate for the mostly shade north side of our home
The althea (Rose of Sharon) should be available in a month or so and more arrive in late summer as well. Hewitt’s Super Shady is the grass blend you want…it can grow in the shade of a building with no direct sun at all.
Can a weeping cherry tree do well in NY? My mom (from Schenectady) recently visited me in Virginia and loved my tree – was thinking of buying one for her. Thoughts?
Yes, we have weeping cherry trees and they come with our lifetime guarantee so you know they are hardy.
What are some good types of shrubs to purchase for creating nice hedges about 3-5 ft high for a natural border or fence. I don’t want to go with the arborvitae because they grow too tall and tend to get brown in the middle. I have heard boxwoods are good. Are they the ones that can be trimmed nicely and literally look like a green wall? (That’s what I’m looking for) What size shrub should I start with so I don’t have to wait 5 years for it to be at least 3ft high and how far apart do I plant them? Thank you again for all your help.
Your boxwood idea is a good one but they are slow growing. Buy the largest you can. There is also Little Princess Spirea which gets 3′ tal and 6′ wide. Low maintenance with little pruning needed. If it is a very sunny location then miniature roses are another option. Miniature roses aren’t grafted and are very winter hardy so no special care is needed (wrapping & mulching) to get them through winter, There are also som low growing cotoneasters that might work for you as well.
The best choices for this will be willows. Pussywillows, dappled willows and, if there is room. a weeping willow tree can grow in wet areas and help dry them out.
I live in Guilderland with much sand. I need thin tall fast growing trees to block an intrusive new building up on a hill behind my home. They have huge solar panels which should be outlawed but I have no choice. I need to plant the trees on the side where my garden is since it is the side with the most sunshine but I don’t want them to take up too much room to interfere with the garden. Suggestions?
As long as the areas is sunny, then arborvitae would make a nice narrow hedge. If the area is shady then hemlock trees although they’ll need to be trimmed regularly (maybe twice a summer) to keep them narrow.
Peter; Saw the clip on CBS6 about putting card board under mulch. But in the fall can you blow the leaves out from the box wood hedge with out blowing the mulch all over?? Help!!!! Otto
Putting cardboard down won’t have any effect on whether you leaf blower blows mulch out of the bed. By the time fall arrives, the cardboard will have smothered the weeds and will be becoming part of the soil.
If you are having trouble with the leaf blower in the beds I’d suggest a small leaf rake to get the leaves out of the landscape beds.
Hi Peter, We have a series of four arborvitae that are planted on our fence line and facing north. They were planted 2 years ago. We have clay soil. Two of the arbs are doing very well. The other two have died and need to be replaced. The only difference that we can tell between the dead ones and the thriving ones is the amount of moisture in the soil. And when I say moisture I mean REALLY wet. We know that there is a drainage problem along that section of the planting bed however I would like to replace them and hopefully rectify the soil issue at the same time. How would you recommend that we amend the soil for these two replacement shrubs to give them the best chance? Thank you, Natalie.
The best way to overcome this problem is to “mound plant”. Dig a shallow hole about 1/4 the depth of the ball of the tree you’re going to plant and add you Bio-Tone starter food to the bottom of that hole. Then and place the tree into that shallow hole. The n cover the rest of the exposed ball with soil making a mound (it will be fairly wide) to cover the rest of the root ball up to the crown of the plant. This will elevate most of the root ball above the wet soil so it won’t drown. When it does dry out during the heat of summer, you may need to water these plants a little extra for the first few years until they are established.
There is a lot of deer and rabbit damage this year. You’ll need to start spraying with a repellent right away. I use Bonide Repels All. Here’s more on that: http://blog.timesunion.com/gardening/with-the-warm-up-comes-the-deer/6090/
Peter. Help!! In February I moved a 14″ diameter potted hibiscus closer to a west facing window in anticipation of moving it into the garage in April, then outside mid May. I live in southern Warren County. To keep my cat from using the soil, I put plastic bags on top of the soil. She has stayed away. During the winter there were some leaves that turned yellow. I sprayed the plant weekly for 4 weeks with Neem Oil. It helped. A few days ago I was going to water the plant. I moved the plastic bags and saw the top of the soil had clumps of white stuff with a hint of yellow. Under a very strong magnifying glass (60-100x) they seem to look like tiny cotton balls. First I thought of mealy bugs, but these were on the soil; not on the leaves. Could these white “things” be mealy bug eggs? If not, what might they be and how might I get rid of them? The hibiscus has been somewhat stressed all winter; practically no leaves on the bottom 1/3 of the plant.
It is pretty normal for a tropical hibiscus to lose leaves over the winter. Unless you have a greenhouse, it is pretty hard to do more than keep it alive over winter. It will bounce back quickly as the days get longer and, especially, warmer. The leaves often turn yellow before they fall off so that probably isn’t due to insects. I suspect the white stuff is just mold growing on the surface of the soil from being covered with plastic. Scrape it off and discard it…probably will have no adverse effect on the plant. You can start 1/4 strength feedings once every three weeks now to stimulate it into new growth for the season.
I bought 3-Hydrangea Mac Harlequins at Hewitts. It says color: pink/red. They told me these would be mult-colored but after doing a search, I was unable to find anything using the name on the tag. Can you confirm the color and also explain how to prune them. There are different techniques depending on the type you have so I would appreciate it if you could let me know how to prune this particular type. Thanks:) Suzanne
We planted some pine trees last year (about 2 ft. tall) and since then, a few have been hit by the lawn mower. The bark is missing, and we’re worried they won’t survive. Is there anything we can do to help repair the damage?
I’d say you have reason to be concerned Sherry. All the growth action takes place in the bark of the tree. The wood inside is supporting the tree but the wood is kind of like our fingernails. The transfer of sap containing moisture and nutrients flows up through the outer layer, the bark. If the bark is removed all the way around the trunk then that flow stops and the tree will die rather quickly. Obviously you want to stop mowing so close to the trees so you’ll stop damaging the bark. Perhaps removing the grass and mulching around the trees would be a good idea so you won’t have to mow right up to the trunks. Since you don’t mention any od the trees turning brown or dying I’ll assume that the damage you’ve done so far isn’t fatal. Take a close look at the bark to see if you’d scraped the bark off all the way around the trunk. Chances are you’ve damaged one side but there is still bark on the other. The remaining bark has takenm up the task of sending nutrients and moisture up to the branches above. The damaged area will gradually recover and grow bark all around the trunk. You could get some Tree Wrap, a papery material that comes on a roll that you wind up the trunk. This will help protect the bark as it recovers and help prevent any future nicks from happening.
I had a landscaper plant 14 balled & burlapped Emerald Green Arbor Vitaes about 6-7 weeks ago. Now, half seem dead (needles brown, falling off, no green under bark when scraped). I was told to water once a week, which I did until I noticed them starting to turn brown, at which time I watered about twice a week with a soaker hose. Now, I am inspecting them and am wondering if they were planted correctly. The burlap surrounding the rootballs was never pulled away from the trunk, nor was it pulled down/slit to expose the roots at all. Could this have contributed to their early demise? Thanks for any info you might have.
For an arborvitae to go from green to brown in 6-7 weeks it would take more than just the burlap and twine not being undone. Unless the twine and burlap is made of plastic then, over the course of a few years, the arb might grow and get strangled by the plastic twine. If the twine is jute (like baling twine) then it will disintigrate long before it could become a problem. Often, it isbest to just leave jute burlap and twine in place when planting. Trying to unbundle the root ball might cause the root ballto fall apart. This breaks off all the tiny root hairs that absorb moisture from the soil. . . . It sounds as though you’ve been watering them enough so I think there are three possible reason why some of your arbs failed. . . . First, make sure that they have not been planted too deep. The original soil lineon the trunk where the bark meets the root bark should be at soil level, not below. If they are planted too deep with the bark buried, the flow of moisture up the trunk is greatly impaired. . . Second, make sure that mulch hasn’t been piled up against the trunk. Mulch as heavily as you want away from the trunk butnever pilemulch against the exposed bark of the tree. It has the same effect as burying the truk too deep in the soil. . . . If you check and they seem to have been planted and mulched properly then the only conclusion is that they experienced a period of severe dryness at some point in spring before they arrived at your home. In that case I hope for your sake that they have some sort of guarantee and will be replaced.
Its time for me to cut down my Hydrangea bushes,how far do I cut them down,I have not had flowers either on them in 2 years..Any suggestions? Thank you
There are different types of hydrangeas. Some flower on second year growth and some on new growth. You’ll need to determine what type you have. If you have been cutting back your hydrangea every fall then you might have been cutting off the shoots that will flower the following summer. Heree’s a wonderful site that will help you identify which type of hydrangea you have and when it should be pruned. http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/pruning.html
I have 6 shrubs that we purchased late in the season, and were unable to plant them. What can we do to keep them till Spring.??? They are now starting to dry, and I was going to put them into the cellar, in the furnace room till spring. Thanks
Often the plants I get during fall sales don’t look like much with the leaves falling off as they go into dormancy, but as long as the roots and stems are in good shape, I’m willing to take a chance. Sometimes the bargains are so good that I buy plants that I have no plan for but the price is so good that I can’t pass them up. These plants will often have to spend the winter in their pots while I come up with a plan for them. I’m not afraid to winter-over perennials in pots or balled-in-burlap shrubs or trees. It’s all a question of knowing how to bring them through the harsh winter ahead. First, scout out a sheltered location. We know that our prevailing wind comes from the west and north. The east facing wall of a garage, shed or even the house is a great spot. The building will block the cold, dry air that can dehydrate our wintering plants. I’ve got a 4′ high retaining wall on the western side of my vegetable garden that works well for this purpose. Parallel to the wall, I’ll dig a trench deep enough to set my potted and balled bargains into. If I happen to have a tree that is so tall that it sticks out above the wall, I’ll tip it on its side so the branches are below the top of the wall, protected from the wind. Then I’ll fill around the pots or root balls with loose soil and tamp it down well. Until winter sends my treasures into complete dormancy, I’ll keep an eye out that they don’t dry out, but with rain such a regular feature this time of year, that’s not of much concern. As early as I can in spring, I’ll find places in my landscape for my fall bargains and plant them (adding bone meal, of course).
My lilac bush has scale and I tried to treat it several times last summer. I had some results but there still is a problem and I want to rid the bush totally before it blooms this season. What is the best way to totally eradicate the scale????
Scale is tough to get rid of. I had it on a weeping beech so I understand your frustration. There a way though. You’ll need to use a soil drench of Bonide’s Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control. Follow the directions on the package carefull but you’ll dilute the liquid with water and soak the soil at the base of the tree using as much as the directions indicate. The lilacs will absorb the insecticide and it moves throughout the plant killing the scale as well as their offspring that hatch later. It worked great for me…one application did the trick but it does take some time to start working so be patient.
can you please advise on type of fertilizer for (1)arborvitae (2) boxwoods (3) flowering plum tree and frequency
For the arvorvitae and the box wood I’d go with Espoma’s Tree-Tone. This is a granular food that you’ll place into holes pounded onto the ground (an old broom handle or pipe works well for making the holes) and then fill the holes 3/4 full of the food. The holes should be out away from the trunk or stem about as far as the outermost branch tip (this is called the ‘dripline’). For the flowering plum I’d use Flower-Tone using the same method above. Feed right away and every spring as soon as the soil thaws. This way the plant is getting the food as new growth is forming in spring. Once a year is enough…never feed in the fall.
I received a azalia bush last year. I was told to plant it at end of season. It looks like alot of it has died. Will it come back ?
Let it leaf out and then cut away all the dead stems. Since it was planted at the end of the season, it probably had a tough time over winter. Hardy plants should get planted as early in the season as possible to get a root system established before winter. Water it with Mir-Acid plant food every two weeks until the end of June (don’t feed it in the heat of summer). It should spring back to life and fill back in.
I have what I think is a Purple Plum Tree out in front of my house, it has pretty pale pink flowers all over now, my quest. is , it is leaning toward one side, and I like to know what to do so it doesn’t do that, the weight is all on one side, it is beautiful , and I don’t want anything to happen to it, could you give me some advice on this. Thank You Pete Appreciate it…
If the tree is small enough, you could use a tree staking kit to bend it back so it is straight. After a couple of years of staking the tree will conform to it’s new position. If it is older and too large to bend then your only option is to trim some of the branches off the ‘heavier side to force the tree into more growth on the other side to balance it out. Never remove more than 1/3 of the total branch structure per year. This may take a few years to accomplish so be patient.
75+ yr old holly bush shrubs with all brown leaves. Never noticed this before in 19 yrs lived here (northern PA). Can see small amt of new growth appearing in spots underneath. What to do? Prune them back n remove dead leaves or just let them go and see what the next few weeks bring? Should I add some miracid to the soil?
In our area, this has been the “question of the year:. HERE’S a link to a blog post abut what happened and what you can do about it.
I planted a 3 year old thundechild apple tree about 4 years ago it was attacked by the apple borer and it broke in half at the base. There are about 5, 2 foot healthy looking sucker branches growing from the base. Should I leave them or should I only keep the healthest one? What are the chances that these suckers have the apple borer in them. Or should I cut my loses and dig up the base and forget about it? thanks
These tree are grafted so the suckers are probably growing from the root stock. They are not going to grow into the tree you had but will be whatever the rootstock is. Dig it up and replace it.
First, prune away and discard ant affected leaves and clear any fallen leaves and plant part form below the plants. Feed them right away with Espoma Holly-tone organic food. Make sure any sprinkler systems are NOT spraying the plants with water. Start a preventative spraying program with a sulfur or copper fungicide. Nutrition and hygiene can go a long way to preventing leaf spot in the future but the fungicide spray may be need to get it under control.
Hello Peter, I have a second question regarding tiny black bugs on my burning bushes that are causing the leaves to curl under. I have tried an organic detergent spray but they ( I think they are aphids?) are persistent. What would you recommend using in order to cure this infestation? Thank you again, Natalie
When you are using a contact killer like insecticidal soap, you’re killing the adult insects. The eggs are not killed. You need to commit to spraying VERY THOROUGLY once a week for three weeks. This will generally kill the you adults that hatch before they mature enough to lay more eggs. If you wait too long before the follow-up sprayings, you’ll never break down the reproductive cycle of the insects. If you use a systemic insecticide that you dilute and pour into the soil at the base of the tree, it will be taken up into the plant and any insect that chews on or sucks nutrients from the plant (like aphids do) will be killed. This insecticide remains in the plant long enough to kill the original population and successive generations that hatch from the egg. This effectively breaks the reproductive cycle.
Peter: do you have any ideas as to why our hydrangea planting 5+ years old sprouts sizable white potential “flowers” but only a few bits on the outer edge bloom into actual petals?
I’d guess that your hydrangea is one of the Lacecap Hydrangeas, that’s what they do. Normal for them.
I’ve had pretty severe deer damage to a large stand of rhododendrons. What will bring back foliage and flowers more effectively, pruning the dined upon branches or simply letting them be?
As long as the branches bend without breaking then they might make it back. If they are brittle cut it back until you reach supple living branches. Feed the roots with Holly-Tone, a granular long term feeding. More importantly, get some Mir-Acid soluble food. Dilute as directed and sprinkle it from a watering can all over he branches leaves and stems. This type of food can be absorbed directly into the cells of the bark. It will quickly stimulate bud and leaf growth. It is an emergency method of getting nutrients into the plant quickly. Do this every week and a half until mid June when it starts to get hot.. By then you should see a little new growth.
You can use Repels-All animal repellent spray to keep the deer from doing further damage. Apply it in fall and winter one a month on days that are above freezing.
This was a hard winter on our rhodos ,many dead branches & wilted leaves. Should they be cut back close to the ground? We also experienced the same problem on azealas, parts of the bushes died. Should they be cut back?
This last winter was colder, windier and longer than normal. This was rough on broadleaf evergreens like azaleas, holly and rhododendron. At this point all you can do is cut off all the dead leaves. Bend the small branches and, if they are brittle and snap easily cut them back to where you find living tissue. You should feed them with Holly-Tone in the soil below (this should be done every year). To stimulate some quick leaf growth you can use some Mir-Acid soluble evergreen food. Mix with water in a watering can as the package directs. Sprinkle this food all over the stems and remaining leaves. This food can be absorbed directly into the plant without having to come up through the root system. It is an emergency method of feeding and, if they is any life left to the plant, this will stimulate quick leaf growth. Do this every week and a half until mid-June. Also make sure you haven’t piled mulch up against the base of the tree. This smothers the bark and slowly kills it. Mulch is good but not against the bark of the plants, any plants.
Green Giant Arborvitae or hemlock
I’m one of those people that stupidity bought a few Majesty Palms. I’ve researched their needs and wow, seems like they may be impossible to care for. Now, i really, really wanna prove the internet wrong! What do these poor things need from me? Any suggestions would be awesome. Thanks and love you Peter!
Keep the soil just lightly moist all the time and feed it lightly once a month except in winter…don’t feed at all from Nov. through Feb. The biggest problem for them inside is light. Unless you have a greenhouse or sunroom then it will struggle. Once summer arrives, you can give it some relieve by bringing it outside. Place it in a sheltered location at first and gradually move into brighter location to avoid sun scald.
Plant it in full sun. Feed it with Espoma Flower-tone every spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Prune away spent flowers as soon as the petals fall off to encourage reblooming.
How soon after planting burning bushes can I trim them? Each newly planted bush stands about 3.5 ft tall.
You can prune burning bush any time.
We want to put in some evergreen barrier in Speculator, NY that will not be eaten by deer. Is Arborvitae a good choice or do you have other suggestions?Thanks,Connie
Dark American and Emerald Green Arborvitae, the most commonly sold and used arbs for privacy barriers are NOT deer resistant. Green Giant Arborvitae are the only one that is resistant to deer damage. In addition, as their name implies, green giants are large and grow quickly once established. It would make a great privacy barrier and windbreak.
If the area is part sun to shade, another option would be Canadian Hemlock. They are extremely winter hardy and are the best option for an evergreen barrier in less-than-sunny locations.
We sell both these plants at Hewitts but you might want to call ahead to make sure they have them in stock before you head down. We do transfer merchandise from location to location as need be in case you need more than one of our stores has in stock.
We just planted rhododendroms last week and now they look like they are wilting? We put them in with top soil and peat moss and made sure we dug the hole twice the size of the plant and put it in no deeper than the top of soil and also put some mulch on it…..what have we done wrong? How can I get my shrubs to look healthy again? Thanks
If you have not buried soil or mulch up against the stem (bark) of the plants then I suspect that you are watering too much and drowning them….especially if you have heavier soil and you’ve added peat moss which retains 20 times its weight of water. Newly planted shrubs and trees need to be kept moist but not soggy wet all the time. About the only thing that can cause such a quick reaction is drowning. We’ve had plenty of rain lately so let the dry out a bit so the roots can breath. If things get hot and dry later in summer, you’ll need to water. You can always check before watering. Poke your finger into the soil as deep as you can and if it feels cool and moist, don’t water and check again in a few days.
REDBUID, FLOWERING CRABAPPLE, WEEPING JAPANESE MAPLE, WEEPING CHERRY, AMUR MAPLE, WEEPING CRABALPPLE ARE SEVERAL THAT SPRING TO MIND.
Last week I purchased a Japanese Maple Tree at the Hewitts on Troy Road in East Greenbush. The tree looked very healthy when we purchased it and we planted it within a few days being careful not to plant it too deep or too shallow. We also added a few handfuls of Biotone to the hole before planting. In the past few days most of the top leaves have turned brown and have dried out. the bottom of the tree still appears red in color and the leaves seem healthy. Is there something we should do to help it along. I know that sometimes transplanting causes a tree to go into temporary shock. Any advice you can offer will be appreciated.
Transplanting is the act of digging up and moving a plant so it wouldn’t be transplant shock. If the root ball fell apart when you were placing the tree into the hole, that would rip the tiny root hairs away and that would cause some of the foliage to die as you’ve described.
The only other possibility is that you are watering it too much and it is drowning…that can also cause the leave to turn brown as the root system drowns. Keep it moist but not soggy wet all the time.
MY LANDSCAPER PLANTED MY 6 FOOT MOONGLOW JUNIPER ABOVE THE GROUND ABOUT 5-6 INCHES. iS THAT CORRECT? THE TREE IS YELLOWING AND LOSING LOTS OF ITS NEEDLES
No, not correct. The part of the trunk where the bark enters the soil when the plant was in the pot or ball should be flush with the soil More on that HERE. Also, check to make sure that bark mulch hasn’t been piled up, mound like, around the trunk of the tree. Wet mulch against the bark of the tree has the same deadly effect as burying the plant too deep. Brush any mulch or dirt away from the trunk until you fine the spot where the trunk enters the soil.
HI, I HAVE PLANTED MY HIBISCUS PLANTS OUTDOORS FOR THE PAST TWO YEARS PRUNING THEM IN THE FALL. LAST YEAR THEY GOT SHOOTS AND GREW TO BE BEAUTIFUL. THIS YEAR I HAVE NO SHOOTS. IS IT TO EARLY. THANKS
I assume you are talking about althea, Rose of Sharon. They bud up and leaf out very late and this year even later than normal. You should see some signs of life this week or next.
I am looking for a tree that will stay 5 ft or under for my front yard. I am in East greenbush Ny. Maybe something that will flower also
That is pretty small for a tree. Weeping Japanese Maples can be kept that low. Henry Lauders Walking Stick (corylis contorta) is an interesting twisty form that can be kept low. Most of the flowering trees (redbud, flowering crabapples, dogwood) get much taller.
Have a lot of wild grape vine taking over our arborvitae. I saw your column in Moneysaver regarding using Stump and Vine Killer and purchased it from Hewitts. It is now April 15 and would like to know if product can be applied now or when? How effective is it ? Thank you very much.
It needs to be applied when the vine is rapidly growing so it is a little early still. On a vive, you’ll need to watch for new shoots popping up nearby and then treat them as well…eventually you will get it all.
I have two problems that I need advice on. I have a beautiful pink weeping cherry in the front of my house. I noticed It attracts a lot of Japanese beetles. I spray the tree 2-3 times a spring/summer. For the last three years my front lawn has been destroyed by grubs. I have treated the lawn fall and spring for three years. No neighbors have this problem. Should I take the weeping cherry down? or just prune it
You don’t say what you are spraying with but I’d suggest Eight…it remains on the leaves after you spray for a couple of weeks or until rain washes it off..so you’ll need to reapply after rain. Start spraying as soon as you see the first beetle…no need to spray before then. Reapply as necessary until the Jap Beetles subside in mid to late August. Cherry and other fruit trees are quite attractive to Japanese Beetles. Treating your lawn doesn’t mean you won’t get the beetle on your shrubs and other plants since they can travel great distances on the wind as adult beetles.
My maple tree looks stressed. It never fully blossomed and there are still some seeds or helicopters on the tree. It just looks a little scrawny compared to past years. Thanks. Jim
It could be “maple decline” more on that HERE. As you can see from the article, it could be related to the last 2 very harsh winters. If that is all it is, it should bounce back. You should also check to make sure that you haven’t been piling mulch up against the bark of the tree. While this seems like a nice thing to do, it is just the opposite. Bark, dirt or other material piled against the trunk slowly cuts off the flow of moisture and nutrients from the roots to the branches and leaves above. It will cause the symptoms you describe and will eventually kill even a full-sized tree. Brush any mulch away from the trunk until you find the original soil and leave it that way. Mulch is good around the tree, but not piled up against it.
i would like to know how difficult it would be to grow a magnolia tree in upstate ny. we are looking to plant a flowering in may tree for a colleague we just lost suddenly. please help us.
Magnolias grow very well here in NY. They need a sunny location (7+ hours per day). We still have some in stock including a less-common yellow magnolia.
I planted a lilac this spring, but how can I care for it during the winter snows. I live in central herkimer county. My bush has two main stems about a foot long.
The snow and cold won’t be a problem for your lilac but the deer will. Pound 3 stakes in the ground that are taller than the lilac. Then staple deer netting around and over the lilac to keep the deer from being able to nibble on the plant. You’ll need to do this every fall until the lilac is tall enough for the flower buds to be out of reach of the deer.
We have a load of rabbits in our neighborhood that love our backyard and our plants. I realize they need to eat too but they’ve been eating on our plants and pooping all over our backyard. Will our bushes they’ve been eating on come back from their feasting?
If the bark has been stripped off all the way around the stem or trunk, the plants should come back. The rabbits and deer do like to eat the nutritious flowerbuds so you may not get as many (or any) flowers on early flowering shrubs like rhododendron or lilacs. This damage will continue as long as it is cold so you may want to get a tanks sprayer and start applying repellent…here’s a link to more on that.
I have a dwarf crab apple tree .That with all the snow this year had gotten attacked by bunnies eating the bark.Now most of the bottom branches are bare.What can i do to preserve this tree ?
Any branches that have been stripped of bark all the way around are dead and should be pruned off. If the trunk has been stripped of bark all the way around, then the tree above that is dead. It will need to re-grow a new trunk from below the damage…a long process.
There are several varieties that we sell that have flowers that change colors as the age so new flowers will have a different color than the ones that opened a few days before. Come in and look at our “Everlasting” varieties of hydrangeas.
I purchased an October Glory that was approximately 14’in height in 2008. It had a main trunk that spanned about 7′ then it branched off into 3 trunks. An October ice/snow storm in 2011 cracked two of those trunks which I pruned off and the tree survived and appears to be thriving. In 2014 I noticed that it was producing some surface root in my lawn around the tree and this year they have become more numerous and are breaching the surface of the lawn so that my mower is now bouncing a bit when I mow the lawn above them. Can I spread 2 inches of top soil over the lawn surface and replant grass or will this harm the tree? If it will harm the tree, what other options are available for as this situation progresses, it will kill the lawn and present a root webbed surface?
Surface roots are normal for maples. A couple of inches of topsoil on top will do no harm at all. Just avoid piling soil up against the trunk too much. As the tree matures, those surface roots will compete with the grass for moisture so you may have to water the lawn under the tree a little extra. People often complain that they can’t grow grass in the shade under trees but usually the problem is lack of moisture, not shade.
You won’t be notified. It will appear with the other answered questions The best thing to do is include an email so I can send you the answer.
After several years my arborvitae have turned brown after this past winter. Will they come back or should I trim them or is it too late. Thanks
The late warmth in fall was rough on the arbs. They need extra water when that happens to store moisture for the dormant period….most folks don’t think of watering in Oct. or Nov. If they are totally brown then there is little hope. If they are partially green, then pound some holes around them away from the trunks under the outer-most branch tips and fill the holes with Espoma, Tree-tone food. If we have a dry summer, water extra. If there is life to them, they will bounce back.
I have a dogwood tree that I purchased from Hewitt’s and planted in May. It has done well, but just in the past week the leaves have started to brown from the bottom up, about 1/4 of the leaf. I have made sure to give it lots of water as it starts. There doesn’t appear to be any bugs, none of the leaves have holes/been eaten. Help! What have I done wrong?
There are a several of possibilities. If you have been watering a lot and the soil is constantly wet…you may be drowning it. On the other hand, if it has gotten bone dry, it may be suffering from that. Soak it well once a week and let it dry in between. Soak the soil but don’t spray the leaves. It is also possible that, when you planted it, you dug the hole too deep and not there is dirt piled against the bark which hinders the ability of the bark to pass nutrients and water up to the stems and leaves above More on that HERE. Bark mulch piled against the bark is just as bad as burying it too deep. Brush any dirt or mulch away from the trunk until you find the original soil the plant came in and keep it that way. Dirt or mulch against the bark id the #1 cause of shrub/tree death.
They start at $24.99.
I’m not psychic. I need more info than that.
why did the beautiful blossoms on my lilac bushes turn brownovernight. It did rain and they are directly under telephone polefull of all kinds of electrical? Could that be a cause? If not, what?
It sounds like lilac blight. Here’s a link to more on that.
Our cherry tree, planted last year, has buds on the upper branches but the lower branches do not have buds. I would say 1/3 to 1/2 the tree is without buds. Should we dig it out and not waste any more time on it or should we prune off the branches that appear to be dead and hope the rest take over ?
I wouldn’t dig it out. It is normal for a young tree to skip flower and fruit production for a couple of years while it is getting a root system established. Check the base of the tree to make sure you haven’t buried the trunk too deep or piled mulch up against the bark of the tree…this is a common mistake and will eventually kill the tree. Here’s a link to a blog post about that.
Also, fruit tree are attractive to a wide variety of pest so you should start a spraying program to insure it stays healthy and insect and disease free. Bonide Complete Fruit Tree Spray is great for this. Poking holes in the ground around the tree and pouring in some Espoma Tree Tone would ne a good idea right away as well…breakfast is the most important meal of the year for our plants as they wake up in spring. Here’s a link to a blog post all about spring feeding. The strong Fruit tree spikes are too strong for your young tree…use the granular Tree-Tone.
I have 4 Colorado spruces that are dying from the bottom up, they are about 12 years old – 20 ft. I have read extensively about cytospora and needlecast, and know that if it is cytopspora there is nothing you can do but trim dead branches and fertilize. Someone told me that I should spray fungicide for needlecast as well on the top branches. This seems doubtful for the trees to have both. No one seems to be able to determine if it is cytospora. I don’t want to lose the trees, is there an expert to diagnose? Thank you.
I would include some links about needlecast and cytospora but it seems that you’ve already done your research. A certified arborist would be able to diagnose this for you. Here’s a website that will help you locate one depending on where you live. Fred Breglia (region 4) is know to me and is very knowledgeable. Also Jack Magai in Rensselaer County has been suggested. firstname.lastname@example.org
Sadly, the Jacaranda tree doesn’t grow this far north. It is hardy only in USDA zone 9 and higher…we are zone 5. Jacaranda trees can never survive a hard frost let alone our long, cold winters.
Deer are prevalent in my yard. What is the best method to “protect” them and when is the best time to wrap them? Does burlap work best?
Burlap will certainly keep he deer from damaging you shribs but a better option would be deer netting. Deer netting is a black plastic mes that comes in large sizes for wrapping shrubs and small trees that deer love to munch on. You don’t really notice the netting on the shrubs where burlap would be much more obvious. You should put you deer netting on in mid to late October after the leaves have fallen from the trees.
Yes, we carry both Eastern Redbuds and Forest Pansy Redbuds. You should call your local Hewitt’s to check availability since they are both quite popular and might run out of stock as the summer progresses.
My 4year old Apple tree has a section of bark missing ,about 4inches wide around the circumference of the tree about half way up th trunk the stem under the missing bark looks dry and cracked . What has happened to it , it has been producing Apple’s for the last 2 years
It is likely that a rabbit (on top of the deep snow earlier) or a deer has eaten the bark off the tree. If it is removed all the way around the trunk, it will not grow above that. You can cut it at the top of the remaining bark and retrain a new trunk from shoots that start below that…this is quite a setback. This is why young fruit and other trees should have their trunks wrapped in the fall for the winter to protect them…more on that HERE. Once they’re older and have the rough bark of a mature tree they won’t need to be wrapped but this is 10+ years in the future.
I have two tree rose of sharons. All of a sudden, the leaves started get nodules on them and they are crinkly like they are dry. Any suggestions?
This sounds like one of two things…or possibly both. First is overwatering. Once an Althea is established, little watering is necessary. If you feel the need, set a slow running hose at the base of it for an hour or two and then don’t water again for a month. NEVER spray the leaves with water as this promotes diseases. Also check the base of the altheas to make sure that you haven’t buried the stem too deep or piled mulch up against the bark of the althea. This is a very unhealthy situation…it is like slowly strangling the althea (or any woody shrub or tree. It is a VERY common mistake. When you plant or mulch, the last step is to check the stem where it enters the soil and brush back dirt or mulch until you can see the original spot on the trunk where it enter the soil. I might also be good to feed the altheas right away with some Espoma Flower-Tone to help them along.
Hydrangeas have become quite popular lately so naturally we have plenty of interesting varieties in stock. A quick visit to the nursery here at the Hewitt’s location in Glenville turned up these varieties. Twist & Shout, Lemon Wave, Aplen Glow, Nikko Blue, Domotoi, Harlequin, Teller, Emile Molliere, and Snow Queen. I might have missed a couple. They range in price from $16.99 to $49.99 with most for $25. Mkae sure you keep an eye on our ad in the Times Union every Thursday or you can check the adout here at hewitts.com. New ad appear every Thursday as well.
Hi Pete, I have a camp in the Adirondacks with a set of dead arborvitae bushes around a sunny part of the driveway. I was told by a local person that the dear eat the arborvitae and its difficult to keep them away from anything green–especially in the cold months. I would like to replace these with a hardy shrub (similar to the arborvitae) to provide some privacy, but I am unsure as to what might be the best option in this setting. Any recommendation? Thanks for your time. Jim
Thanks for your question Jim, . . The local person is right…deer are a big problem for evergreens in the Adirondacks. There is one arborvitae that is deer resistant, the Green Giant Arborvitae. It is hardy to USDA zone 5 meaning it can tolerate temperatures as low as -25°F. Green Giants are also fast growing and can get quite tall…up to 40′ or so in 25 to 30 years. There are a couple of junipers that are also deer resistant. There’s an upright form called Moonglow Juniper. Moonglow doesn’t grow as fast as Green Giant but is a nice silvery color and will reach 20′ eventually. There’s alos a wide spreading juniper that is deer resistant called Sea Green Juniper. Sea Green gets about 6′ tall and 8′ wide. If you want some color, weigelas come in may leaf andflower colors and many will get 6′ to 8′ tall and wide. Being deciduous, they won’t provide privacy in the winter but will do a great job in the summer. It might still be wise to cover them for the first few years with deer netting in the fall to protect them over the winter. Deer netting is a black plastic mesh that you won’t notice but the deer can’t get their mouths through. You could check our Queensbury store for availability 792-3638. Ask for Charlie or Tom and they can tell you what is available there or at other Hewitt’s locations.
This spring I planted a peony tuber. It has brown leaves on it, yet the one next to it, planted several years ago is very healthy and has a lot of blooms in late spring. What is wrong with it?
Peonies take a while to get established. The older plant clearly is established but your young plant with a very shallow root system is likely struggling as a result of our hot and dry summer. Keep the younger plant watered and feed it in spring as soon as the ground thaws and can be worked. I’d suggest Espoma Flower-tone as the food. It can take 3 years or more for a peony to become well enough established that it has the energy to spare on a flowering cycle. Also peonies, once established, don’t like to be moved. Simply moving and established peony to a new location can cause it not to flower for a couple of years.
Thanks for your question Don. Arborvitae will perform best in full sun. Full sun means that it the sun should shine directly on the plant for at least 6 hours. More is even better. You can add up all the sun that it gets to get the total. For example it might get 2 hours in the morning and 5 more in the afternoon for a total of 7 hour of direct sun. You should make these estimations during the growing season in June or July for instance. How much sun it gets in early spring, late fall or winter when the plant is dormant has no relevance.
I am interested in purchasing a tree that blooms in the north each with dark orange blossoms. I don’t know what kind of tree this is, can you help?
Lesley and I exchanged email so I could get more clues. It turns out that the tree seems to flower in fall. Since there aren’t any trees that have showy orange flowers in fall I surmised that she was actually seeing the berry clusters of an American Mountain Ash
We recently planted 6 arborviate which were around 3ft tall. We planted them in a mix of peat moss and native soil(sandy). They don’t seem to be doing well, leaves are turning brownish. What can we do to help them ?
It sounds like you did a good job planting your arbs. I suspect that the culprit is the hot, dry summer and fall we’re having. Newly planted shrubs need to be kept constantly moist during the growing season. In your sandy soil, this would have meant a thorough soaking every other day. To help them at this point, you shuld try pouring Mir-Acid (a food you dilute in water) from a watering can over the foliage. Mir-Acid can be absorbed directly through the foliage to feed the plant instantly. If you don’t have Mir-Acid then regular Miracle-Gro will also work. Also soak the soil by placing a slow running hose at the base of each plant for an hour or so to give the water a chance to get deep into the soils and the arborvitae’s roots. There’s rain coming that will help but deep soaking will take more than an inch or two of natural rain. This watering is especially important late in the growing season as plants (especially evergreens) are trying to store the moisture and nutrients they need to make it through the winter ahead.
I’m looking for a shrub, evergreen, to put in my planter in front of my house. I would like to add some height to my landscape. The planter comes out away from the house approximately 30″. What would you suggest? Thanks
Thanks for your question Paul. Before I answer your question could you tell more about the planter. Is it free standing with a bottom (like a windowbox or pot) or more like a small retaining wall where there is no bottom and the plant can grow into the soil below? PeterB Peter, It is a small retaining wall planter without a bottom and ties back into the house. This planter is not in full sun but goes get quite a bit ob sun. It also runs between my house and the driveway. Thanks for clarifying Paul, Hardy perennials, shrubs and evergreens can be difficult to maintain in raised planters. This is because the planter will thaw and freeze repeatedly during late winter and early spring. Plants in the ground will stay frozen and dormant until the ground thaws in spring. Since a planter is raised up from the soil it will often thaw out during early warm spells in February or March. When this happens, it can lure the plants in the planter out of dormancy too early. The plants will start to grow roots and buds swell up with the first flush of growth. Of course normal, sub freezing weather returns and refreezes the planter. When this happens the new growth is killed and the shock of all this can kill the entire plant. It is for this reason you don’t often see hardy perennials or shrubs in raised planter…they have a hard time surviving. Having said that, I HAVE seen hardy plants in planter surviving and thriving. Those planters are usually in a location where there isn’t a lot of afternoon sun so the planter manages not to warm up enough during “false spring” weather and so the plants remain dormant. Perhaps your planter is in such a location and has enough mass to stay frozen in late winter. My suggestion for you would be to give Dwarf Alberta Spruce a try. They are slow growing and very hardy. If it is protected from the west and north wind, you could also try smaller rhododendron, azaleas and holly. Let me know how you make out. Peter B
I have a flowering plum tree that was place in a retaining wall by a lanscaper two years ago. I did some online research on tree disease because I noticed a some issues with the tree. It looks like it could be Black knot and or Bacterial canker. What do I do?
I have a flowering plum tree that was place in a retaining wall by a lanscaper two years ago. I did some online research on tree disease because I noticed a some issues with the tree. It looks like it could be Black knot and or Bacterial canker. What do I do? Thanks for you question Laura, This is bad news…both these disorders are common to plums and both are dificult to control. Here’s some information from Cornell on Black Knot http://www.nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets/treefruit/diseases/bk/bk.asp and on Bacterial Canker http://www.ehow.com/how_5786749_treat-canker-plum-trees.html The bottom line is that you’ll need to prune away the infected growth and spray during the growing season with a copper-based fungicide. We sell one from Bonide and you can see it here. It is available in a spray or dust (that can also be mixed with water for spraying). Repeat sprayings will be needed and even then either of these diseases will be hard to control completely but you might keep them under control.
Thanks for your question Barb, That’s great that you have buds now…those are the buds that will flower in spring. Right after those flowers finish up in spring is the correct time to do any pruning. That way the new flower buds that form will form on the new shoots that grow after you prune.
I have a beautiful zebra grass. I was wondering if I should trim it in the fall or wait until the spring. Thanks!
Honestly, it makes no difference to the plant whether you trim it now or in spring or at all for that matter. If you don’t like the way it looks now (straggly) then trim it back now. I would probably leave it until spring so the dead foliage will catch some leaves ans later snow to help insulated it over winter but Zebra Grass is so hardy that the choice is yours. Peter Bowden
I’ve heard of a product called SuperRepellent to use on dormant trees and shrubs to prevent deer from browsing on them in the winter. Do you carry it?
Hewitt’s doesn’t carry SuperRepellent…the closest I can come is Liquid Fence Deer Repellent which uses putrescent egg solids, garlic, sodium lauryl sulphite and potassium sorbate to repel deer. It should be applied in fall and again during any thaw periods (above freezing) during winter…especially toward spring. PeterB
I have a twin pine tree that has been dropping pieces since the fall and hasn’t shown any signs of slowing down. My deck and lawn area is covered. The pieces are about 4 inch long small branches with green needles, no sign of brown needles. Any idea why the tree is dropping like this?? Never done this before. Thanks, Andy
I’ve been noticing the same thing. Don’t worry about it, the pines will be fine. We’ve had a very cold winter and we’ve had icing that has coated the pines for days on end. With the ice and extended cold spells the needles and small branches get very brittle so, when the high wind pounds them they snap off. They can even snap off from the weight of snow when the wind hits them as well. As the snow melts you’ll see even more broken needles on the surface. Rest assured, the pines will come through fine and will look great this spring with lots of new growth to replace what winter stripped away. This winter has been particularly cold, and icy. There is usually some damage like this in winter but this one has just been a little worse than the last few. Peter Bowden
We have 4 globe arborvitaes along our front porch that have grown full and about 4 ft. tall over the past 20 years. We have pruned them annually, but the inner leaves/branches are brown and only the outer exposed leaves are green. We would like to cut these back about a foot, but are concerned that this will kill them or we won’t get green leaves back this season. I think they are worth saving, but my husband thinks they won’t recover well. Can you advise us how to prune these to give them the best chance of greening up this season or should be just replace them for something smaller? Thanks for your help!
I have to agree with your husband on this one. Cutting off a foot all around you globe arbs will remove pretty much all of the foliage. That will shock the plant so severely that it isn’t likely to survive. The general rule of thumb for pruning is :”Never remove more than 1/3 of the foliage per year.” I’d suggest replacing them with something slower growing so this doesn’t happen again. Dwarf Alberta Spruce would be an appropriate option. Peter Bowden
Hello! A friend was given a mini azalea (assuming from what i was told, its really little) and it looked great. Some time passed and she forgot to water it causing it to dry up to near complete death. Its still alive after a dousing but most of it seems dead. She gave it to me figuring id pay better attention to it. I want to re-pot it into a bigger pot and because I cant put it outside in the ground. I know they like acidic soil and was told there was soil made just for them. Do you carry any? Ive been keeping the soil its in moist and it seems to be doing OK. Also what are these little pepper looking specks all over the underside of my spider plant? I its causing it to turn yellow and die.
Hello! A friend was given a mini azalea (assuming from what i was told, its really little) and it looked great. Some time passed and she forgot to water it causing it to dry up to near complete death. Its still alive after a dousing but most of it seems dead. She gave it to me figuring id pay better attention to it. I want to re-pot it into a bigger pot and because I cant put it outside in the ground. I know they like acidic soil and was told there was soil made just for them. Do you carry any? Regular potting soil will be fine but I’d wait until it recovers before repotting which will only add to the stress on the plant. Feed it with half strength Mir-Acid plant food every three weeks or so and keep it in partial sun until it recovers. It will be a few months before it is ready for repotting. I’ve been keeping the soil its in moist and it seems to be doing OK. Also what are these little pepper looking specks all over the underside of my spider plant? I its causing it to turn yellow and die. This sounds like spider mites. Spray weekly with insecticidal soap sprayfor 4 weeks. Make sure to spray thoroughly on top and bottom of the leaves.
I asked a question about why my evergreen trees are turning brown and dying? you responded by wanting to know what type of tree they are and how old. they are blue spruce and five years old. I have not given them any food or fertilizer. I need your help thank you.
I asked a question about why my evergreen trees are turning brown and dying? you responded by wanting to know what type of tree they are and how old. they are blue spruce and five years old. I have not given them any food or fertilizer. I need your help thank you. Skip, Since your spruce tree are recently planted I’d like you to check to make sure that the twine that was on the ball is not still around the trunk. Most jute twines will rot away but plastic twine won’t. As the tree grows the twine strangles it. Next check to make sure that soil or mulch hasn’t been piled up against the bark of the tree. Sometimes, if the hole is dug too deeply the crown (where the trunk enters the soil) gets buried. Even mulch piled up against the trunk of the spruce is a problem. The bark needs to be exposed to the air for the bark on the trunk to pass nutrients from the soil below to the branches above. We find that buried stems and trunks and mulch piled against the bark are the leading cause for dead plants getting returned to us. Dig away around the trunk until you find the original soil that was at the top of the original dirt ball that the plant came in. Naturally you’ll get more growth and a healthier trees and shrubs if you feed then each spring…in the case of the spruces you’d feed them with Holly-Tone. http://blog.timesunion.com/gardening/spring-feeding-pt-2-shrubs-trees-and-perennials/650/
Four years ago we planted two beautiful profusion crab apple trees on either side of a bradford pear tree. Both trees have done really well with plentiful blossoms and beautiful green leaves. This year they both blossomed with their pink flowers, but only one has a full compliment of dense green leaves. The other although it did have blossoms, now has only a scarce leaves and mostly bare branches. I can not see any signs of pests or fungi though it does look as though some branches were damaged by the harsh winter. Is it possible the leaves will arrive later in the spring or summer? Or am I better off looking at replacing it now so it has a chance to establish itself he fore next winter? Thanks so much!
Check around the base of the trees for mouse or rabbit damage. If the bark has been partially stripped off by them eating it over winter then it can cause some of the problems you’ve been describing. If the bark has been stripped of all the way around the trunk then it is fatal. Also check to make sure that you haven’t piled soil or mulch up against the bark of the tree. Scrape away and bark or soil until you see the original soil that the tree came in. Burying the crown of the tree (where the trunk enters the soil) also slows or stops the flow of moisture and nutrients from the roots to the branches. The fact that they flowered and have some leaves is hopeful. Winter was indeed harsh so they are under some stress. I’d give them a chance to recover before ripping them out.
Azaleas do well in shade as do holly, japanese andromeda and holly. Yews also don’t need lots of sun. Endless Summer hydrangeas and many other hydrangeas like some shade. Euonymus likes shade too. Many varieties of viburnum thrive in shade as well. There are more as well…maybe come to the garden center to see.
I have several groups of white birch trees we planted 5 years ago. They’ve been beautiful, until this year. Three groups have almost no leaves on them. They’re in different locations, only 2 groups are close to each other. I never saw signs of leafminers or anything affecting the trees or leaves last year. What could cause this?
There is a birch tree blight that can cause this. It is a leaf disease so it isn’t likely that it will kill the tree. This sometimes happens when we have an excessively damp spring. I might feed them a little Tree-Tone plant food by pounding holes into the soil under the drip line (outermost branch tips). Make sure to rake up and remove any leaves that fall and remove them from the yard…especially the leaves that fall this autumn. Another thing to check is the base of the tree where the trunk enters the soil. Make sure you haven’t buried the trunk with soil of mulch. Brush back the mulch or soil until you find the original soil line where the trunk enters the soil. If the trunk is buried with mulch or soil or slows the flow of moisture and nutrients up the trunk weakening the tree and making it more likely to die from diseases and stress. Peter Bowden
Hello! We have three Princess Beatrix Hydrangea plants. They are now approx. 4 years old. Last year we did not have any flowers :( We thought it best to just leave the plants alone (did not prune at all) At this time, we have green leaves growing from the bottom up. What are our chances of seeing flowers this year? Most importantly, what is the VERY BEST way and time of year to prune them? Thanks so much! Beverley
I’d say your chances of seeing flowers are pretty good since you did not prune off last year’s growth. Princess Beatrix is a macrophylla hydrangea so it produces flowers from buds on stems that grew last year. Other hydrangeas can produce flowers on new growth. There is a lot of confusion about this and the best site for clearing up the confusion is this: http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/pruning.html#Know For you hydrangea you’ll want to follow ‘Pruning: Method One’
I have two mature Boulevard Cypress shrubs in front of my home and one more than the other has many brown branches on it. I tried using Jobe spikes but see no results. Could it be damage due to the severe winter or a blight? Also should I cut those brown branches off. Thank you.
This was a particularly rough winter so i expect that is the problem. It is normal for some of the interior foliage to turn brown and fall off as the plant matures but this winter may have nipped them more than normal. The food spike were a good idea and they will help as they dissolve into the soil. Any branches that are totall brown and brittle should be removed. Another thing to check is the base of the tree where the trunk enters the soil. Make sure you haven’t buried the trunk with soil of mulch. Brush back the mulch or soil until you find the original soil line where the trunk enters the soil. If the trunk is buried with mulch or soil or slows the flow of moisture and nutrients up the trunk weakening the tree and making it more likely to die from diseases and stress. Peter Bowden
Hi Peter,I have a unhealthy cherry blossom tree and it has very few leaves on it, branches seem a little frail and it has no flowers. Can it be saved? Just one more thing, it is a very old tree. Thank you for your attention in this matter.
Fruit trees, including ornamental cherry trees have a lifespan and, if yours is 30 or 40 years old, it may be reaching the end of it’s time. Having said that, I’m hearing of similar problems from others. There are some things you can do. The most obvious is to make sure that you haven’t piled mulch up against the bark of the tree. Next make sure to remove any suckers that sprout from the base of the tree. Suckers will rob moisture and nutrients from the upper branches and leaves. Naturally feeding it with some fruit tree spikes pounded into the soil underneath the outermost branch tips will help as well. If the tree hasn’t been pruned in many years there are probably many interior sucker-like branches that should also be cut off to encourage growth on the main stems. If it has been let go then this pruning needs to take place over a few years to avoid shocking the tree. Without seeing the tree or a picture, it is hard for me to be too specific but here’s a website that does a nice job describing the process. http://www.ehow.com/how_7333120_restore-old-fruit-tree.html
I have 2 apple trees in my backyards and would like to spray them organically (no chemicals) to control worms, can you recommend anything?
This is a pretty involved question so I think it best to send you the link to this very comprehensive page from Michigan State University. Michigan’s climate is the same as ours so the information given is appropriate here as well. http://web3.canr.msu.edu/vanburen/organasp.htm
The best product to treat “needle cast disease” in everygreens? Zone 5, northen Saratoga County. Lower branches in tough shape. Have been told to use “both” ground based fungicide application and to spray the complete tree. ? Have over 25 evergreens, Blue Spruce trees are over 15′ tall but looking rather down. Can they be saved? Thank you.
Needle cast can be caused by a number of fungi. Once the needle is infected, nothing can be done. The fungicide we sell that can be effective (depending on which of the diseases is causing the problem) id Fungonil. You also want to rake up and remove all the needles from below the infected trees. It would not be a bad idea to spray that area as well. Make sure you haven’t piled mulch or dirt up against the base of the trees. Here are a couple of links you may find helpful:
This is a question that comes up every year as soon as the weather warms up. Short answer is: yes, you can plant shrubs, trees and perennials all summer long…otherwise landscapers would go out of business. HERE’S a link to a blog post that explains where the confusion comes from.
We just moved into a new home in Latham. The soil is clay-like and we are looking for suggestions on a deer resistant hedge for privacy. Arbor vitaes in the neighborhood do not do well with the deer and perhaps the soil.Thanks.
If you have room for them, Green Giant Arborvitae make a great evergreen barrier and deer don’t like them. There’s also hemlock although they don’t prefer locations with all day, full sun. Otherwise there are nice choices of flowering, deciduous shrubs like lilacs, weigela, spirea and others.
We planted 3 mountain fire plants and a Green mountain boxwood. We are need to know How and what we should use to fertilize them.
The best food for them would be Espoma Holly-tone, a granular, organic food. You probably use a couple of cups per plant. You can pound several holes in the soil in a ring around the plants about as far from the trunk as the outermost branch tips and pour the food into these holes. Here’s a blog post that covers the “how to” of spring feeding our landscape plants.
We put an antidesicant our holly’s every year, but this year they are totally brown. We were in Florida all winter and understand that it was a rough one. What do we do now to bring them back. there is a little green in some areas.
You just asked “the question of the year” as we’re now calling it. HERE’S a link to my blog post all about what happened while you were away and what you can do to bring your holly back.
The school I work for wants to plant a Dwarf tree in memory of a staff member that just passed away,we want to put it on the side of the building,where there is some sun light but not all day long,what size do you carry and price range.Thank you.Marlene
This is one of those questions that is difficult to answer since there is little clue about the amount of daylight the areas is actually getting. Is “some sun” one hour or 6 hours. There is a wide range of possible amounts between “some sun” and all day sun. The best I can suggest is a Weeping Japanese Maple. They are $150. With 7 hours of sun, weeping cherries and snowfountain crabapples would be possible to grow in that location as well. They run about $100-$150.
We have a weeping cherry tree that looks out of control. Can it be trimmed now or is there a better time to do it?Also, the ornamental grasses that we have are showing very little if any green on them – any chance they could still come around ??
Now, just after the flowering period, is the best time to trim your weeping cherry. They form the buds for next spring’s flowers over this summer. If you prune later in the season, you’ll be pruning away the buds and won’t have as many flowers next spring. Weeping cherries are grafted (with two grafts). Prune away any suckers at the base of the tree whenever you see them sprouting since they are robbing energy from the upper part of the plant. The top, weeping part of the tree is also grafted to the main trunk so look for any branches that are trying to grow from the trunk below that upper graft and remove them whenever you see those. They won’t weep and, if you let them go, they will grow faster than the weeping upper part and take over. In other words. prune away any shoots are branches that are growing anywhere below that upper graft. Never prune away more that 1/3 of the desirable weeping branches each year to avoid shocking the tree.
If your grass hasn’t shown any signs of life by now, I’d assume it is dead.
Just one?…Iris. Here’s a great site if you want to learn more perennials or other landscape plants that are deer resistant. Bear in mind that this site is for NJ so check the results to make sure the plants it suggests are hardy in this area.
My holly bushes seem dead. The friut was exceptional this fall/winter. Help. are they dead?Have just put holly tone around all 20 of them.thank you in advance.
Check the bark at the base of the plants. If mice have stripped the bark off all the away around then they are probably gone. Also check that you haven’t buried the stem with mulch. Brush back the mulch until you find the original soil that the plant came in…hopefully you didn’t plant them too deep…a common mistake and always fatal although it may take a couple of years for the shrub to die. Bend the smaller branches and, if they are brittle and snap easily then the branches are dead. If there seems to be any life left to them at all, get some Mir-Acid plant food and dilute it in water as directed, (no stronger) an wash it down over the stems and trunk of the plants. This type of food can be absorbed directly into the cells of the bark…like an emergency intravenous feeding. if there is any life left at all, this will help the plant grow leaves as quickly as possible. Do this once a week. If no signs of life appear after a month or so, then they are done in. Holly and other broadleaf evergreen shouldn’t be planted in very windy locations exposed to the dry, cold north and west wind. Perhaps that is part of the problem.
If you have city water, let the water stand in the watering can overnight to let the chlorine escape overnight before using. If you have well water, this won be necessary. Avoid using water that has been processed by a water softener.
Hi, I attended the seminar at the Wilton store on Saturday and afterward showed you photos of a group of 5 douglas fir trees in my yard, 2 of which are not doing well. I purchased the Holly Tone and Miracid as you suggested, but would like some more specific information on how and when to apply these products. Should I apply the Holly Tone in the soil around the tree trunks first? How many days/weeks should I then wait to apply the Miracid? And is the Miracid also applied in the soil around the tree trunks? How frequently should I apply the Miracid, and is there a point at which I should stop applying it? Thank you in advance for your help!
Get the Holly-Tone into the soil right away since it takes some time to dissolve and start working. In the meantime start using the Miracid right away. Dilute as directed on the package and wash it down over the stems, twigs and what is left of the foliage. The idea id to get nutrients directly into the bark to stimulate some quick growth…Miracid can do this. No need to soak the soil with the Miracid…the Holly-tone will feed through the roots. Apply the Miracid to the plant about once every 2 week until early June when it starts getting hot…finish the applications by the end of the first week of June.
Yes and yes
Early June and I’ve got VIBIRNIUM LEAF BEETLE invasion. The young critters (not beetles yet) are feasting – soon to grow into their big beetle selves. Got advice for how to get rid of them before they ruin all my vibirniums? (some of the varieties seem safe for now, but others are nearly gobbled up!) Thanks! ~Amy in Albany
We have two hydrangeas from Hewitt’s. One Nikko Blue and one Forever Summer type. They are winter killed down to base…2 or 3 leaves at ground level? Do I cut back all the dead branches?? They are 4 feet tall. Help!! Sarah at email@example.com
Yes, you can cut them back although the Nikko Blue won’t flower on new growth. NB forms buds the season before for this year’s flowers. Those latent buds rarely make it through winters in zone 5…probably not worth growing in our area (assuming you’re from Upstate NY). I’d wait on the Endless Summer hydrangea and see where it starts to grow from and prune it back to just above that spot on the stem…don’t prune it all the way back to the ground. Here’s a great link to all things hydrangea.
My azaela shrubs were accidentally sprayed in the front with weed & feed and now the lesves are leaning down and slowly changing color. Please help!
Wash the plant off thoroughly with water to get the weed killer off. If it hasn’t absorbed too much of the weed killer, then perhaps you’ll only lose the leaves and it will grow new ones to replace what is lost. if the weed killer was in contact with the leaves too long before it got washed off then you might lose branches and stems and, possibly the entire plant. Water, water, water…especially to wash the weed killer off the leaves and stems.
I need a small decorative tree that does not expand past 8 ft in diameter. Live in Greenwich ny. Plus nice shrubbery. I am also allergic to bees. Area will be between curvy sidewalk from front driveway to back patio. Do you have suggestions. Many have told me a creeping tree. What do you suggest?
I’d suggest a laceleaf-weeping-Japanese maple They are slow growing and can be pruned to easily maintain the size in the space you have.
Two years ago, I built a new porch between two very healthy holly bushes. I used sonotubes and portland cement to anchor the posts.This spring, both bushes have suddenly gone brown and seem gone.Any speculation on why?
It is possible that you damaged the roots of the hollies when you dug the holes. Also the very alkaline nature of the concrete leaching into the soil could also harm acid-loving hollies. Follow up all that stress with one of the coldest, windiest winters in recent memory and it was probably more than the hollies could take…especially if they face toward the west or north. Broadleaf evergreens like holly and rhododendron really too a beating over this last winter.
Are AllI Have This Beautiful Hibiscus Flower, AndI Would Love To Get Another One But I Can’t Seen To Find It Anywhere. Its Not Really A Bush And Its Not Really A Tree. It GrowA About 5-6 Stalks. Each Stalk Ends Up Being About 4 Fret Tall With Multiple Blooms On Each. ButThe Flowers ARe All AtLeast 6Inches Wide When In Bloom. Can You Tell Me The Name Of It And Possibly Where I Might Be Able To Get More?
It sounds like a mallow hibiscus, a hardy perennial. We’ll have them again in about a month or so. Keep an eye on our Thursday ads in the Times Union newspaper or here at hewitts.com. We always advertise them when they arrive.
Wash it off the leaves by spraying it with water and soak the soil.
Not as long as they are planted far enough apart so each has plenty of room to grow. No other issues with them being near each other though.
all my holly bushes have brown leaves will they green up ? i never had this problem in previous years
This last winter was colder, windier and longer than normal. This was rough on broadleaf evergreens like holly and rhododendron. At this point all you can do is cut off all the dead leaves. Bend the small branches and, if they are brittle and snap easily cut them back to where you find living tissue. You should feed them with Holly-Tone in the soil below (this should be done every year). To stimulate some quick leaf growth you can use some Mir-Acid soluble evergreen food. Mix with water in a watering can as the package directs. Sprinkle this food all over the stems and remaining leaves. This food can be absorbed directly into the plant without having to come up through the root system. It is an emergency method of feeding and, if they is any life left to the plant, this will stimulate quick leaf growth. Do this every week and a half until mid-June. Also make sure you haven’t piled mulch up against the base of the tree. This smothers the bark and slowly kills it. Mulch is good but not against the bark of the plants, any plants.
Right after the flowering period. That way the new growth will form buds for next springs flowers. If you prune later, there will be no buds so no flowers next spring.
I have a Kwanzan Flowering Cherry (Prunus serrulata ‘Kwanzan”) tree that my deceased son gave me seven years ago for Mother’s day. It has flowered every year since he gave it to me except last year and now it looks like this year it is not going to have flowers either. I have not done anything different to it over the years. It did seem to have a growth spurt last year and I thought that was why it didn’t flower. We always remove the suckers when they start and we do not have mulch around it. Any advise you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
The long cold winter just past may have caused the buds to fail. If you have been pruning late in the year, after the end of May you are removing the buds for the next years flowers. If it isn’t getting at least 7 hours of direct sun a day then it won’t have the energy to flower. If all of the above is not the issue, then it probably needs some food to give it the energy it needs to flower. Espoma Flower-Tone food should be placed into holes in the ground around the tree. This should be done right away and every spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Plants won’t flower until the have the extra energy to do so. Here’s more on spring feeding.
This winter weather killed my holly bushes -the females are all brown leaves, except for a few spots of new growth, and the male has a few branches still alive. These were 24 years old and 5′ tall. Do I give up and have them removed?
In spite of all the unsightly damage, the root system is still intact. It is possible that they ban bounce back. Here’s a blog post all about how to help them.
I bought a Magnolia from you last year and it has done well.What is your advice on fertilizing my little girl Jane?And pruning?
You should feed it right away. Pound some holes around the base of it and pour in some Espoma Flower-tone. The tree spikes are too strong for your recently planted Jane. Here’s a blog post all about spring feeding. Pruning should be done right after the flowering is finished. Magnolias grow their bud for next spring’s flowers over the rest of this season. If you prune later, you’ll be cutting off the latent buds that will be next spring’s flowers. If you prune when it has just finished flowering, the new growth will have a chance to produce buds.
Hi Peter,I have a large Maple tree (taller than my 2-story house), with roots that have popped out of the ground. Would I be able to put a thin layer of mulch down around the tree to cover up the roots? Thank you.
This is normal for maples. You can cover the roots with a thin layer of much but don’t pile it up against the trunk of the tree. Mulch on the ground is good…mulch against the trunks and stems of plants is very bad.
I purchased a white flowering dogwood tree May 20, 2008 and it has never flowered. Can you tell me why? Thank you.
There are a couple of possible reasons. If the tree is growing in too much
shade, then it probably won’t flower. While dogwoods don’t prefer all day
sun, they do need to get 7-9 hours daily to flower as we expect. Another
issue could be lack of nutrition. Do you feed your tree. I’d suggest
pounding some holes in the ground about 1′ deep with a pipe around the tree
out away from the trunk of the tree about as far as the outermost branch
tips. Fill those holes about 3/4 full with Espoma Bio-tone starter food.
This will provide nutrients but, even more important, a dose of beneficial
microbes and fungi that will enhance the tree ability to absorb phosphorus
from the soil. Here’s a link to more on that.
Then, feed it with Espoma Tree-tone in the same manner every spring as soon
as the ground thaws.
Finally, check to make sure that you haven’t been piling mulch up against
the trunk of the tree. Mulch is good on the soil but not against the bark
of the tree. The mulch prevents the easy flow of nutrients up through the
bark and is slowly strangling the tree. Brush any mulch away from the trunk
of the tree until you expose the original soil level.
The only things that spring to my mind that is that short and is a tree is a weeping Laceleaf Japanese Maple or perhaps a Weeping Cherry
This is the second try on planting arborvitae in the clay we have in our backyard. The landscaper who put in the first 5 the autumn of 2012 dug them up and replaced them. Before he planted the new ones last autumn he mixed the clay with other soil (not sure what). These are also dying from the bottom and inside and look terrible. What should I have done (what can I do now) to help them grow and look healthy?
This last winter was rough on evergreen. You, having only been planted last year, will have struggled. Here’s a link to a blog post that describes the tactics for restoring a stressed out evergreen. It references Hollies but the procedure would be the same for your arbs.
I have a ash tree that is diseased, Ihave removed the tree but it keeps putting on sprouts, Can I kill these roots before my other trees are diseased,Can someone tell me how to kill the roots. my email address is firstname.lastname@example.org, thanks if someone can help.
When you cut the suckers, paint the bark at the cut with Bonide Stump and Vine Killer. This will get transmitted to the roots and kill them. This would have been ore effective had it been done when you cut down the parent tree. It may continue to send up shoots after your initial application but, if you keep cutting and painting the bark with the herbicide, the tree and its roots will eventually die off. Always read and follow the direction on the package.
Hi Peter! A lot of our yews & junipers have large brown dead areas this year, we’ve live here for over 20 years, and have never seen this happen. And some of the other trees & shrubs are having a rough time, two of our Althea trees don’t look like they are going to make it. Is this a result of the winter we had, or could it be something else? We live right in Glenville. Thanks in advance! Gary & Barb
It was one of the roughest winters in about 20 years. You are not alone…there’s been lots of damage to evergreens this year. Trim away the damaged areas and it will fill back in eventually. If you haven’t seen any signs of growth on your altheas by now, you can assume they didn’t make it.
Hello I planted 7 arborvitaes last year and they were doing fine until this spring when 4 of them started turning brown. Is that “winter kill” and is there something that can “save them” and /or will they survive?Thank you
Yes “winter burn” from our harsh winter. HERE’S a blog post all about what you can do. It references Hollies but the procedure would be the same for your arbs,
I bought 2 River Birches (in large containers) from Hewitt’s last summer. I was going to plant them they looked so nice on my patio I left them in the containers and cut them back to stop them from growing too tall. I over wintered them in the house and fertilized this spring and they’re still doing great but definitely not as full as when I first bought them.My question is, if I decided to plant them when would be the best time? Can they be over wintered again without repotting?
These are northern plants and moving them inside for the winter is actually very bad for them…they need and require a cold dormant period. It would be best to plant them in the ground right away and keep them nice and moist…but not soggy wet. A little Bio-tone in the planting hole would be nice for them too. Set them free!
Have 2 burning bush 6-8′ tall. Both are leafless. However, branches still bendable. How far should I prune it back?
If they are total leafless then look at the base of the plants where the stems enter the soil. It isn’t unheard of to have mice or rabbits strip the bark off burning bush to eat over winter…especially this last harsher than normal winter. If you see that the bark is all stripped off then you might as well cut the burning bush right to the ground. The roots are still fine and the plants will grow back very quickly. You may even see shoots already emerging from the root system below. Don’t cut them off since they are the start of the regrowing process.
facing northwest, late afternoon sun, looking at ornamental grass first or a flowering shrub, What would you recommend?
It is difficult to suggest plants without knowing how many hours of “late afternoon sun” the area is actually getting. If it is getting at least 6 hours of sun then you could grow many flowering shrubs. Lilacs, spirea, weigela and others would be good choices. Naturally there is a wide variety of sizes in these groups of flowering shrubs. With less light than that, the ornamental grasses might be a better choice. Perhaps have some observations to determine how many hours of sun the area is getting and take some pictures to bring to the garden center so we can fine tune our recommendations.
We are right at the edge of Hawthorn’s hardiness range which is why you don’t often see then other than in warmer city settings. We don’t stock them.
Hello and I am so pleased to see this venue to ask my question.I have a 56 or 57 yr.old Rhodonendum and the last bit of Winter got it.Never knew about any kind of spray that I could have sprayed on the leaves…now I know about it! I did have to cut a lot of dead branches away,and there was only 3 blooms this year. I do not know the life span of the Rhododendrom? & should I contemplate taking this plant out it is over 7 feet high and there is new growth at ground level…..will the dead leaves come back?If you could give me some direction here I would appreciate it greatly.Thank you very much.Sybil Schwartzbach (gr8hndz4u@ gmail.com)
This has been the “question of the year” for 2014. HERE’S a blog post all about what happened and what you can do to help your rhododendron recover. I’d try and save them since rhodos have a very long lifespan.
Last fall I transplanted 10 rose of Sharon trees. They were all about 2 years old. It appears they survived the winter. Some appear to be alive but are not yet putting out green leaves while others are just starting to sprout. How long should they take to come back? Should we cut the branches that appear to have no growth since most new growth is at the bottomNg
I’d wait a little longer. Althea leaf out very late and even later this year with the cold spring we’ve been having. In a couple of weeks, cut them back to where you see new growth. You can expect them to have some dieback from the shock of transplanting. Poke some holes 8″ deep in the ground where you cut into the soil to dig the holes when you planted them. Fill the holes about 2/3 of the way with Espoma Flower-Tone to feed them if you haven’t already.
There is pruning paint but there is some debate whether is is beneficial to the healing process. If the bark has been stripped off all the way around the tree, there is no way to save the tree other than bridge grafting. In the future, you’ll want to wrap the trunks of the tree in fall to prevent this type of damage.
If the bark has bee stripped all the way around the trunk then the tree is gone. If there is any bark remaining then it may eventually grow back. In the future, wrap the trunk with tree wrap in the fall to prevent this type of damage. Once the trees are olde and have formed rough, mature bark, the mice and voles will leave it alone but, while they are young with smooth bark, rodents will always be a threat.
My maple tree didn’t drop propellers this Year (1st time in 25 years). I had a pool put in 7-8 years ago and I know they cut some roots. Also I had a few branches trimmed off at the same time, And I noticed a squirrel entering the tree at that point. I has plenty of leaves, but, I was wondering if it’s dying? Any Ideas? My neighbor has the same tree about 50′ from mine and propellers galore. Thank You Deb
Ugh, none of this sounds too good. The most telling is the squirrel entering the interior of the tree through a hole. This indicates that the tree is rotting on the inside. The bark is still alive but the wood that makes up the strong interior of the trunk is compromised. I would have to suggest that you have a certified arborist come and look at the tree it determine if it is safe and if anything can be done for it. If it is near your house, it may be a hazard that is best removed before it causes damage or injury if it comes down in a high wind event. HERE’S a link that can help you find the help you need.
I bought one of the larger blossoming cherry trees at a Hewitts a few years ago. It seems to be doing well but has never had one blossom that I can recall. Is this delay normal? I got it as a centerpiece so I’m getting bummed.
There are a coupleof reasons a flowering tree won’t flower.
Until they are well established and have energy to spare for flowering, they will forgo flowering. To help your tree become well established more quickly, feed it. Pound 10 or 12 holes with a pipe about 10″ deep around the tree out from the trunk about as far as the outermost branch tips (this is called the drip line of the tree). Fill the holes with Bio-Tone starter food. This will help the root system expand and mature. This will provide the tree with the extra energy it needs for flowering.
Also, if the tree isn’t getting enough sun, it will not have the energy for flowering. It would require 6-7 hours of direct sun per day minimum (more is even better…all day full sun would be best) to be able to flower. If it is in shade most of the day, then it will have trouble ever flowering. It will survive and grow lots of leaves in the shade but may not flower.
Three years ago I purchased two Hydranga bushes. As of now they still do not flower. Am I doing something wrong. I have tried to cut baack in the fall and the next year I didn’t cut them back but still no flowers.
How you prune a hydrangea to get blooms depends on what kind of Hydrangea it is. HERE’S A GREAT SITE that can help you figure out what you have and how to prune it.
Also, if it is Nikko Blue Hydrangea, it blooms on second year growth. In or USDA zone, the branches or canes die over the winter on Nikko Blue. The roots live so new canes grow each year but won’t produce flower. Bottom line, Nikko Blue can survive here in Zone 5 but will never flower.
Just enough to keep them moist. Feel the soil and if it is cool and damp wait a couple of days and check again. It is best to water them heavily once a week with a long soak (leave a hose trickling at the base of each one for a half hour or so).
I just planted hydrangeas this weekend. We had a heavy rainstorm last night and the flowers are now flopped over and droopy. Any suggestions on how to put more life into the flowers and keep this from happening again?
That WAS some heavy rain. This is a common problem with hydrangeas and peonies. There’s not much that can be done other that providing support for the branches with the metal stakes with rings at the top to hold the stem upright. You should feed it every spring with Espoma Flower-Tone and that can make it as sturdy as possible but, when we get a pounding 3″ of rain in a couple of hours, your hydrangeas are going to flop until they dry out.
We bought an apple tree from your store om Troy-Schenectady Road in April. It was tall,and straight and had three lng upright branches. It had a root ball wrapped in a jeavy white woven cloth and that was inside a black plastic bag.mthe tag said “do not disturb wrapping” so I removed the plastic but left the cloth onand plamted it im samdy spoil in whatnhas proven to be a partial shade half the day, full sum the rest. It had many s,all clusters of leaves all over it, but these have now all tirned brown, and the little new growth at the top is only a cople imches and doesnt seem to be doing much. Should I dig it up and remove the wrap and maybe cut it back anout half way to promote branching, or move it to a new spot (we dont have many options)? I kept it watered, but it just seems to look the same as it did in April.
Check to make sure you didn’t bury the stem too deep. The soil should be at the same spot on the trunk as it was in the ball when you bought it. Here’s a link to what I’m talking about. Beside checking your planting depth there’s not much to do but wait. Keep it moist but not soggy wet all the time or you can drown the roots (and the leaves will dry up and fall off). I’d leave it where it is and see what happens. If it dies, you an always use our Lifetime Nursery Guarantee and get another one later this year or early next spring.
I am looking for a fast growing tree ,that grows to a height of 20 ft and will live in wet soil ,to plant next to a fence
Within your height requirement Magnolia, and ornamental (like Bradford) pears are good choices.
I am looking for shrubs that would be installed in the front of my house and get little or no sun. Mostly morning sun. I like sky pencil hollies would they do well? Also I like weeping redbud which I could plant where it would get mostly morning sun. Would that be enough?
The holly will do fine but the redbud will need more sun. Other broadleaf evergreens will also like that exposure, azaleas, rhododendron, Andromeda. Look for plants that are labeled “shade to part sun”
Fruit trees, and especially cherries, are prone to as wide variety of pest and fungal diseases which is probably what is causing the spots. Regular spraying is required. We have an organic orchard spray that can help if you start a spraying schedule right away…prevention is the way to go. Drop by the shop and tell them to show you the organic orchard spray.
hi. Do you have any jungle drum plants? If not, do you know where I can get some? I live in the Capital Area of New York. Zip 12202
Sorry, we don’t have them. I’d call around to the local garden centers.
Hi Pete I have Rhododendron bushes that have some age on them they bloom nice , but the foliage is mostly on the top and very woody below what do I need to do
You can get them to fill in below by pruning them back a bit. That stops upward growth and encourages side branching below. Just snip some of the taller tips back to the next leaf intersection back along the stem. Unfortunately the time to do this is right after it flowers in spring. If you do it now in late summer, you’ll be pruning off the flower buds for next spring’s show. There isn’t enough of the growing season left at this point for them to respond to pruning. I’d wait intil after they flower in spring and do your pruning just as soon as the spent flowers fall to the ground. Also feeding them in spring, every spring, with Holly-Tone will also give them a boost and help them fill in faster.
Hi, I am looking for a relatively tall (3-6 feet) ficus religiosa tree (also called sacred fig or simply Bodhi tree in Buddhism). I’m wondering whether you have it, and whether it can survive in an office without natural light. Thanks!
We don’t have them and I’ve never seen them available. Here’s a link to a possible mail order source. It could be tricky in an office since it needs a lot of light. If there is a window with full southern exposure if MIGHT be possible but I suspect some supplemental light would be needed.
I have a Hemlock tree that appears to be suffering from Woolly Adelgid virus. What is the best way to help the tree recover ?
Woolly Adelgid is an insect not a virus. These are easily controlled with an application of Bonide Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control. This product will be diluted with water and poured around the base of the hemlock. It will be taken up through the roots and enter every part of the plant. When the adelgids suck sap from the hemlock, they get the insecticide too and are killed… they can’t escape. Do this right away while the tree is actively growing. How much you use depends on the size of the tree so read and follow the direction to the letter.
I’m an looking to put in shrubs in the front of my home. What are the longest lasting flowering shrubs? What would be the best to plant in sandy soil and full sun?
If you mean shrubs that flower for the longest period then the champion would be roses…check out the Knockout roses…very low maintenance. Most other flowering shrubs flower for a week or two sometime during the growing season. Lilacs, wegelias, spireas are great and come in a variety of forms and sizes. HERE’S a link to more possibilities.
I am looking for a flowering shrub (not toxic to dogs) to hide an ugly picket fence. I live in upstate NY and the yard does get a lot of sun.
Lilac, spirea, and weigela would all work well for that. Each family has many varieties to choose from.
How do you get rid of Weevil? My 3 yr old Norway Spruce trees (3 out of 5) head leaders turned into a Shepards hook. Ive read that its a Weevil. Another Colorado Blue Spruce that I bought from you Latham store 8 yrs ago has had this same hook. We have cut it off and burned it every year but it comes back. Now my beautiful Spruce trees have it they are 15 ft tall.Help!
The best way to eliminate the weevils will be with a systemic insecticide. I’ve used Bonide Annual Tree and Shrub Insect Control with great results. You dilute the product and pour it at the base of the tree. The tree takes the insecticide up through the roots and it permeates the entire tree so anything that chews on or sucks on any part of the tree dies. It takes a while to works but is can’t miss like a spray. Read and follow the directions on the label to the letter. I’d treat again next spring and then monitor the trees in years to come and reapply only if you see evidence of a re-infestation.
We have had a rose of Sharon bush blooming beautifully for four years. This year it died. What happened?
We just experienced one of the coldest winters in about 30 years. I suspect you RoS is in an area that is exposed to wind from the north and west where all the coldest, driest wind all winter. If you bought it at Hewitt’s bring it back with your receipt and our Lifetime Nursery Guarantee will allow a replacement,
We have Rose of Sharon and Lilacs on sale right now (7-17-14) for $29.99 and they are within your size requirement. Some of the weigela and spirea are also in that size range. Call ahead to the store you’re going to visit to confirm availability.
Assuming it is powdery mildew, a common fungal disease of lilacs, the best way to control it is with preventative spraying with copper of sulfur fungicide before the symptoms show…around mid-May through mid-June. It is difficult to control once the white powdery coating on the leaves shows up. I you had it this year, spray preventatively next year.
Is it possible to lay a find netting under oak trees to make it easier to gather up and move and if so do nurseries carry such a netting?
I’m not sure what you want to move…if it is the acorns the burlap would work for that,
I have 2 Cedar trees that had a fungus and turned all brown from too much moisture. Since I had a tree service spray them they have green bunches growing back now but there are still a lot of large dead brown areas yet (more brown than green) should they be cut out? These trees are at least 15 feet tall so I would have to have a tree service trim the dead branches off. Should I have this done or just let them go?
I’d poke or dig some holes and feed them with some Tree-Tone, a slow release, organic food. If you can remove the dead areas do so but there will be no harm if you don’t. Hopefully new growth will cover those areas.