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Peter Bowden, the most well-known gardener in the Capital Region
of New York, has been writing gardening articles since the mid 1980's.
Over 20 years of experience in the retail garden center industry as well
as a life-long love of gardening make Peter's anecdotes worth the read,
every time. Not only are these articles filled with pertinent information
for the North American gardener, they are also packed with amusing
stories, crammed with societal insights, and peppered with poignant points
of practical procedures for the home gardener.
March 21, 2000: Spring Feeding
Last year at this time we were coming up on
Palm Sunday and then Easter. This
year, those holidays are still over a month away!
Those two holidays usually put us in that “spring” frame of mind.
This year we’ll have to count on the weather to do it.
The frustrating thing so far this year has been that all the
“teaser”, warmer days have shown up during mid-week when most of us have
had to work. I’m sure that
this cycle will change soon and we’ll be able to get out there and start
tackling some of those outdoor projects.
The first order of business will be to rake the
lawn. Obviously raking removes all the twigs, branches and
pinecones from the lawn but there are other benefits.
Raking will fluff up the matted blades of grass.
This allows air to dry the old blades of grass, which lessen the
chances of a fungal disease taking hold.
A raked lawn will also warm up quicker and get the grass growing
sooner.
Another benefit of spring raking is the chance to get reacquainted
with our yard and take note of areas that are thin and might need extra
attention. I like to rough up
thin areas and put down grass right away.
It’s too cold for the seed to germinate but the cold won’t hurt
the seed. By putting the seed down now, it will have a chance to get
all pumped up with moisture so it will germinate as soon as temperatures are
right. This will give the young
grass as much time as possible to establish a root system before hot summer
weather arrives (now there’s a nice thought).
Another project that I like to tackle early is
feeding all the permanent members of my garden community: the trees, shrubs
and perennials. You might be thinking, “Nothing out there is really growing
yet! Why should I feed plants
that show no signs of life?” A
valid question. The reason I
like to get these woody and perennial plants fed early is this: the granular
fertilizers and tree food spikes that I’ll use take some time to dissolve
and permeate the soil. When you
get the food into the soil early, it will have plenty of time and spring
rain to dissolve and soak into the soil.
When the plants get the warmth they need to spring into growth, the
nutrients they need will already be there waiting for them.
Since our garden plants have depleted a great deal of their reserve
energy just surviving the winter, they need nutrients more in the early
spring than at any other time of year.
For trees and large shrubs, an easy way to apply nutrients is by
pounding in some of those tree food spikes that are made of compressed
fertilizer. When you go to the
garden center, you’ll notice that there are different formulas for
different plants. The spikes
for evergreens and shade trees are higher in nitrogen and those for fruit
tree are higher in phosphorus to enhance fruit production.
You may have large, flowering shrubs like lilacs that you want to
feed with spikes. The fruit
tree spikes, with their higher phosphorus formula would make them
appropriate for use on flowering shrubs as well.
Be careful to follow the directions when using fertilizer spikes.
They should be driven into the ground AWAY from the trunk or stem of
the plant you’re feeding. The
tiny roots that take up the nutrients are about the same distance from the
trunk as the outermost branch tips. For
trees, it’s easy to figure out where to place the spikes.
Simply walk away from the trunk until you are standing under the
outermost branch tips and pound in the spikes at that circumference.
How many spikes you’ll need to use is determined by the diameter of
the trunk. There are directions
on the package. Follow them. More
isn’t necessarily better. If
you use too many spikes or place them too close to the trunk, you may do
more harm than good.
For smaller shrubs and perennials, you’ll want to use a gentle,
granular food. I like the
Espoma products. You can pound
holes around small shrubs (under the outermost branch tips) and pour the
appropriate amount of plant food into them.
When in doubt, less is best. On
the perennials, I’ll dig a shallow trench well away from the crown of the
plant and apply a modest amount of gentle
Espoma Flower-tone plant food. Follow
the recommendations on the package and, again, when in doubt, less is best.
If you can get out there at the first opportunity and get your
nutrients into the soil early, your landscape plants will be able to take
advantage of them and have the best season possible.
Thanks for the read.

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