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Peter Bowden, the most well-known gardener in the Capital Region
of New York, has been writing gardening articles since the mid 1980's.
Over 20 years of experience in the retail garden center industry as well
as a life-long love of gardening make Peter's anecdotes worth the read,
every time. Not only are these articles filled with pertinent information
for the North American gardener, they are also packed with amusing
stories, crammed with societal insights, and peppered with poignant points
of practical procedures for the home gardener.
April 11, 2000
Crabgrass Preventer vs. Weed Killer
Well,
April is as fickle as ever. We
can have sunshine and 70 degrees or 25 degrees and snow. Experienced gardeners are used to the unruly nature of April
weather and have learned to adapt. I
don’t mind the cool weather since it will hold things back a bit.
Root growth occurs when soil temperatures are low and, when it
finally does warm up, the plants will have a good, strong root system and
they’ll explode into growth with plenty of moisture available.
A lot of us have managed to find those rare warm moments to get our
beds cleaned out and our lawns raked. I
find that these cooler days are a great time to work outside since you
don’t get overheated and there aren’t any pesky mosquitoes to drive you
crazy.
Someone recently asked me why there aren’t
any products that had lawn food, crabgrass preventer and weed killer in one
bag. The gentleman thought this
would be a great idea since it would save a lot of time.
His question reminded me that there is a lot of confusion about the
differences between weed killer and crabgrass preventer.
Let me try to straighten this out.
Crabgrass, unlike most lawn weeds, grows from
seed that the mother plant produced the previous summer.
The mother plant dies completely over the winter never to be seen
again. In early spring (starting about now) the seed germinate and
start to grow. Crabgrass
preventer is an agent that dissolves and forms a coating on the surface of
the soil. ANY seeds that try to
sprout and push a root through that barrier are killed.
The best way to time you crabgrass preventer application is to keep
an eye on a forsythia bush that is growing in your yard or neighborhood.
You MUST have your crabgrass preventer applied before the flowers
have completely fallen off the forsythia.
It is a convenient coincidence that crabgrass seeds germinate at the
same time that forsythias are flowering.
Spring weather can be fickle but, if you use the forsythia as your
clock, your crabgrass preventer will always go on at the right time.
Remember that crabgrass preventer forms a thin film on the surface of
the soil so make sure that all your raking is done before you apply
crabgrass preventer. If you
rake afterward, you will scratch up the barrier and crabgrass will be able
to grow.
Dandelions, plantain and other lawn weeds are
perennial plants. They come up from a root system that was established the year
before and they survive the winter. Because
they are coming up from roots not down from seeds, they are immune to the
effects of crabgrass preventer.
Lawn weed killers do not prevent weeds, they
kill existing weeds. Weed
killers (liquid or granular) are basically plant growth hormones that, when
applied at the proper time, cause the weed to die from the shock that occurs
when the weed tries to grow faster that it is able to.
Sort of like an overdose of stimulants.
If weed killers are applied too early in the season (when nigh time
temperature are below 50 degrees) they will not kill the weeds.
During the cool days and nights of early spring, the weeds are not
growing rapidly enough for the growth hormone to cause the level of shock
necessary to kill the weed. Every
June people complain that the weed killer they used is “no good” or
“doesn’t work”. The real
reason it didn’t work is because it was applied WAY too early.
Sure, you can look out in the yard and see those buggars out there
growing but it’s too early to get rid of them unless you want to dig them
out. Bide you time and strike
when the iron is hot (or when the soil is warmer).
The best time to apply weed killers will be during late May or early
June. If you apply it sooner
you are wasting time and money.
Another important thing to remember about weed killer is that they
are absorbed ONLY through the leaves of the weeds.
Because of this, weed killers MUST remain in contact with the leaves
of the weeds for a minimum of 24 hours (48 is best) for the weed to absorb
enough to be killed. Many who
use liquid weed killers will soak and soak an area to be sure they get the
weed killer into the soil. Any
weed killer that isn’t actually touching the leaves is wasted.
Since leaf contact is the name of the game with weed killers, don’t
mow the lawn prior to applying weed killer.
If you mow, you’re removing the leaves that absorb the weed killer.
Keep an eye on the weather and make sure that
you don’t apply weed killer when rain is expected within 48 hours after
the application. Even a quick shower is enough to wash the weed killer off the
leaves, rendering it ineffective.
REMEMBER, PREVENT CRABGRASS NOW BUT, WAIT TO WAGE WAR ON THE WEEDS.
Thanks for the read.

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